Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 11, 2016 09:10AM
TDD,

Interesting point about the TPU. I broke my original hotend accidentally when attempting to disassemble it. I've been using an inexpensive E3D clone that's been serving me well so far. Since you mentioned your CoreXY printer you are building. Would you be interested in the STL's for the CoreXY conversion I'm doing to my CubeX? They aren't complete yet so I won't post them until I have proven that they function on my own frame first but I'm more than happy to share with anyone interested.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 11, 2016 10:08AM
So, here is how I solved the problem of V6's not being tall enough to use the scraper, and gave the clones a considerable upgrade too.

I started with two V6 clones I had laying around and machined their ends to match the cubex original and attached them to the volcano style heater block. Upon realizing that to reach the scraper, the aluminum bar that crushes the extruder would only be half on the v6, I knew I needed more length. I then took a couple grade 8 m6x1 x 40mm bolts and on the lathe turned them (both kinds of "turn") into 31mm throats instead of the original 26mm. This extra length made my two new Frankenstein hot ends the same length as the original allowing me to use the scraper and will let me play with some huge nozzles if I want to.This being a clone made it much easier, the same threads in the heat sink as in the heater block, while an original mas m8 thread in the heat sink I believe.


If you need some help, or don't understand what I just said, feel free to send me a PM anytime

Printer: Prusa i3, 2 E3D v6 Hotends, Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 with a Bypassed 5V Regulator, 400w Insignia ATX PSU, Custom Designed Bowden Extruders
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 11, 2016 12:07PM
Was wondering if anyone knows, the normal nozzle size seems to be 0.5mm was there a smaller one available?

Can't find anything on the 3Dsystems website so probably not

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/11/2016 12:08PM by Firefox3D.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 11, 2016 01:51PM
Quote
the_digital_dentist
As much as I prefer to print from SD cards, this machine will probably remain connected to a netbook computer (running linux) that hasn't had anything better to do for a couple years, mainly because I don't want to rewire the entire machine so I can move the controller board to the front of the machine where I would mount the LCD.

I don't follow - why can't you leave the controller board where it is and put the LCD at the front?

Quote
the_digital_dentist
I noticed that the heatsink in the hot-end because quite warm while it was printing. I think that mounting the cooling fans directly on the hot-end like the E3D approach would keep them a lot cooler and maybe prevent some jams with PLA.

Where did they put the hot end cooling fan then, if it wasn't either on the hot end, or on the print head and ducted to the hot end heatsink?



Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 11, 2016 02:03PM
Quote
dc42
Quote
the_digital_dentist
I noticed that the heatsink in the hot-end because quite warm while it was printing. I think that mounting the cooling fans directly on the hot-end like the E3D approach would keep them a lot cooler and maybe prevent some jams with PLA.

Where did they put the hot end cooling fan then, if it wasn't either on the hot end, or on the print head and ducted to the hot end heatsink?

the fans are just put really close the cold end but not ducted, air can just go around the heat sink rather than through it, its why the fin density is so much lower on the cubex stock hot end compared to the ducted v6
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 11, 2016 08:11PM
The controller talks to the LCD/SD card via SPI. Cables have to be short or communications fail due to loss of sync. If you want the LCD up front, you have to put the controller close to the front of the machine, and that means rewiring everything because the original controller was located near the back corner of the printer.


Son of MegaMax 3D printer: [www.instructables.com]
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 11, 2016 08:14PM
Quote
obelisk79
... Would you be interested in the STL's for the CoreXY conversion I'm doing to my CubeX? They aren't complete yet so I won't post them until I have proven that they function on my own frame first but I'm more than happy to share with anyone interested.

Thanks, but I'm working off my own design. The CubeX will stay as it is for the foreseeable future.


Son of MegaMax 3D printer: [www.instructables.com]
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 12, 2016 05:32PM
Quote
the_digital_dentist
The controller talks to the LCD/SD card via SPI. Cables have to be short or communications fail due to loss of sync. If you want the LCD up front, you have to put the controller close to the front of the machine, and that means rewiring everything because the original controller was located near the back corner of the printer.

I am aware of the limitations of sending SPI signals over long distances, but I am surprised if even from front to back of a printer is too long. The ribbon cables I supply for connecting the SD socket on a PanelDue to a Duet WiFi are 400mm long. I have had 800mm of cable working, but not completely reliably, which is why I settled on 400mm.

You should be able to achieve greater distances between your LCD and your printer electronics if you use ribbon cable with 26awg conductors instead of the more common 28awg.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/13/2016 05:20PM by dc42.



Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 14, 2016 12:44AM
Do I need to order the 12v or 24v E3D V6? I'm assuming the 12v
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 14, 2016 08:54AM
dc42: I'll see if I can locate a longer ribbon with the heavier gauge wires to try it. We probably have something like that at the makerspace. I've never actually tested the limits of the spi cable, just stuck to the cables that came with it, which IRIC are about 300 mm long. I will need about maybe 450 mm to reach the front of the machine if I leave the controller board in the back corner where the original was.

advancedrescue: 12V or 24V heater depends on your power supply voltage. If you use the original 15V supply, get a 12V heater. If you are switching to 24V, get a 24V heater (though you can make a 12V heater work on 24V by limiting PWM to 64). You can't make a 24V heater work on a 12 or 15V power supply.


Son of MegaMax 3D printer: [www.instructables.com]
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 14, 2016 02:43PM
Quote
the_digital_dentist
dc42: I'll see if I can locate a longer ribbon with the heavier gauge wires to try it. We probably have something like that at the makerspace. I've never actually tested the limits of the spi cable, just stuck to the cables that came with it, which IRIC are about 300 mm long. I will need about maybe 450 mm to reach the front of the machine if I leave the controller board in the back corner where the original was.

advancedrescue: 12V or 24V heater depends on your power supply voltage. If you use the original 15V supply, get a 12V heater. If you are switching to 24V, get a 24V heater (though you can make a 12V heater work on 24V by limiting PWM to 64). You can't make a 24V heater work on a 12 or 15V power supply.

Just for the record, I have my full graphic lcd at the front where the original was mounted, and have no trouble so far (ramps 1.4).
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 14, 2016 07:18PM
DD, you use autodesk? I have it but haven't really used yet. I like tinkercad, but feel I need to try and learn autodesk for more advanced items.

Your z limit mount is awesome once looking at it and using it. The slots for the zip ties that follow the curve of the rail is awesome and hope I can get to that level of cad designing.

I'm almost more interested as of late in cad designing as I am printing. I guess it hits you when you design something from scratch and it works.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/14/2016 07:19PM by advancedrescue.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 14, 2016 08:23PM
I had started a CAD design poll a while back that had a lot of really great feedback, if you aren't dead set on autodesk (I personally using their inventor professional and prefer it to solidworks) you may want to see what other people are using and why.

EDIT: Forgot the link

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/14/2016 08:23PM by DaGameFace.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 14, 2016 09:14PM
I've been using DesignSpark Mechanical, but starting to learn Fusion 360 because it has CAM capabilities built in which means I can use it to run the Tormach mill, the CNC router, and CNC plasma cutter at the makerspace.


Son of MegaMax 3D printer: [www.instructables.com]
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 14, 2016 11:08PM
Anyone want to send me their cubex filament cartridges? Even if empty
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 15, 2016 07:50AM
Quote
the_digital_dentist
I've been using DesignSpark Mechanical, but starting to learn Fusion 360 because it has CAM capabilities built in which means I can use it to run the Tormach mill, the CNC router, and CNC plasma cutter at the makerspace.

I just started using Fusion 360 as well... loving it so far.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 15, 2016 07:52AM
Quote
advancedrescue
Anyone want to send me their cubex filament cartridges? Even if empty

I have two empty ones, if you like, but shipping would be expensive outside Europe.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 15, 2016 08:38AM
Quote
advancedrescue
Anyone want to send me their cubex filament cartridges? Even if empty

I ended up smashing mine when the filament clogged for the umpteenth time one day...hot smiley

JK... but I did saw off the bottom corner to stick into the sensor slot before I did my conversion.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/15/2016 09:09AM by Dancook.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 21, 2016 12:14PM
I have made a short video from the Cubex, let me know what you think of it winking smiley
[youtu.be]

thumbs up or thumbs down
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 21, 2016 12:47PM
FG_Dude
What firmware is loaded in your controller?
Any mods to the code?

confused smiley
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 21, 2016 01:00PM
Quote
cozmicray
FG_Dude
What firmware is loaded in your controller?
Any mods to the code?

confused smiley

I have Marlin-1.1.0-RC7 loaded and did the usual changes like step/sec end-stops true or false but nothing fancy, all changes I have made ware here on this tread to share.
Cheers.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 21, 2016 01:36PM
Does the LCD/emcoder/SD card reader work with cables that long? Are you printing from SD?


Son of MegaMax 3D printer: [www.instructables.com]
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 21, 2016 02:12PM
Quote
the_digital_dentist
Does the LCD/emcoder/SD card reader work with cables that long? Are you printing from SD?

Yes it works, printing from sd card as you see with no problems and no special cable used eider.
winking smiley
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 21, 2016 04:08PM
Great news! I'll get mine set up that way as soon as I can get the LCD for my controller.


Son of MegaMax 3D printer: [www.instructables.com]
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 22, 2016 09:53AM
Latest print, relatively easy object but I was testing printing at 0.06mm later height. I have some slight ringing in the print but it came out fantastic. It looks better in person.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/22/2016 09:56AM by obelisk79.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 22, 2016 09:58AM
Quote
obelisk79
Latest print, relatively easy object but I was testing printing at 0.06mm later height. I have some slight ringing in the print but it came out fantastic

Picture?
only tried 0.1 layer hight and it looks already awesome, so i like to see the 0.06 print qualitysmiling smiley
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 22, 2016 11:33AM
Should be in the post

[s29.postimg.org]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/22/2016 11:34AM by obelisk79.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 22, 2016 11:51AM
Now I see it, nice print result..

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 12/22/2016 11:57AM by fg dude.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 22, 2016 11:26PM
Couple questions. As y'all may or may not remember, I'm the one who got the parts from a cubepro. The stepper motors from both the pro and x are the same, along with most other parts. Looking at the cube parts from their site it shows different hot ends I believe but doesn't exactly give part numbers to confirm. Reason I'm asking is because I'm trying to narrow down the voltage difference if there is.

I "believe" the pro runs off 24v, while the cubex is off the 15v. So if the hotends and stepper motors are the same in both then why have the larger voltage for the pro? Is it because of the chamber heater in the pro? It's much more difficult to find info about the pro than it is the cubex. The tech specs for the pro says it's power is 100 - 240V AC 50-60Hz auto switching, 6a. What's the auto switching mean?

What I'm thinking is the power is 24v, but sends 12 to the main board then splits the other 12 possibly too the chamber heater. May be totally wrong on this:/ tomorrow I plan on swinging by the station where my printer is and grab the parts from the pro and trying to get it all wired up and test. Y'all just seem to be way smarter than I and figured you might know or could figure it out. Some how the pro needs more id guess due to the chamber heater(which is essentially the only additional hardware). The pro does have a power supply board and a heater power board, then the main board. Tomorrow when I grab them from my locker I'll take pictures of them.

I'll go ahead and post the screen shot from the pro power tech specs, and a picture of the chamber heater.

Duet wifi, panel duo and touch screen, and 2 volcano E3D V6's should be arriving in next day or so. So might need help from DC and fox, but will ask if/when I can't find or figure out.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/23/2016 12:30AM by advancedrescue.
Attachments:
open | download - IMG_9632.PNG (472.8 KB)
open | download - IMG_9631.PNG (161.3 KB)
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
December 23, 2016 07:32AM
Auto switching just means that the power input to the power supply can be either 120 or 240V. It has nothing to do with the output voltage.

The chamber heater runs on the line voltage, not low voltage DC. The fan that blows the air over the heater is rated for 24VDC, but would operate very quietly on a lower voltage.

The CubeX machines had 15V power supplies.

The power supply should be marked with the output voltages and current limits.


Son of MegaMax 3D printer: [www.instructables.com]
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
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