Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

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jitendra
hi

I m new to 3d printing world . last week i bought hesine 3d printer. after full assembly i tried to connect with laptop but my laptop not recognise its USB . so i am unable to find in device manager.
its circuit board light is blinking . several time i hook up and remove .
all usb of laptop r good i checked through putting the mouse in that.
how do i load the drivers to this .
can anybody help.

jitendra

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tadawson

I put in the straight 80 . . .not sure why they used the fraction.

- Tim

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thevisad

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cman8
thevisad. I made that extruder mount that you showed me. Seems to work much better havent seen any motor skips at all in any of the filmaments. One question though, Now my extruder is not calibrated, Im assuming because of the new MK8 gear. How do I go about changing it in the firmware to make it all calibrated again. I seen some tutorials but cant find where to change it in the firmware. Thanks again any help appreciated.

I honestly have not noticed an issue with the calibration and I left the configs the same for the extruder. The location is where Tim indicated, in this section here.

https://github.com/thevisad/Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L619

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cman8
Did any of your change your heatbed? and if so which one?

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cman8
Tim, thanks for the tip. At 80 it's printing above and beyond what I thought I would be capable of. It's looking very nice and clean. I had to re calibrate everything but thankfully it was fresh in my mind and its humming. Do the motors get hotter being a higher value?never thought that changing it from 76 to 80 would make that much of a difference.

On a side note, does everyone here vacuum seal their filaments? I live in Utah and its not very humid, so was just curios what the rule of thumb is if any.

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thevisad

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cman8
Did any of your change your heatbed? and if so which one?

Nah, the bed that comes with this unit is actually a really good unit. It heats fast, is stable and pretty darned flat. I have seen people use the hex purple bed or even a square bed on the delta.

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cman8

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thevisad

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cman8
Did any of your change your heatbed? and if so which one?

Nah, the bed that comes with this unit is actually a really good unit. It heats fast, is stable and pretty darned flat. I have seen people use the hex purple bed or even a square bed on the delta.

Do you think hving my bed scratched up from when I was trying to learn how to tune it will affect any of my prints? Hast yet just was curious.

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cman8

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thevisad

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cman8
Did any of your change your heatbed? and if so which one?

Nah, the bed that comes with this unit is actually a really good unit. It heats fast, is stable and pretty darned flat. I have seen people use the hex purple bed or even a square bed on the delta.

Do you think hving my bed scratched up from when I was trying to learn how to tune it will affect any of my prints? Hast yet just was curious.

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Rattfink
Does anyone have any tips for tightening the recessed nylock nut holding the rods on the carriage? There's a little slop on one of mine

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Koenig
I used a very small screwdriver that I wedged between the nut and the plastic and then an allenwrench at the other end of the bolt.

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EdwinCal
Hey guys Im new to the forum so Hello,
So I got my kit the other day and have build it but Im having a few issues.
How do you connect the thermistors (hot end/heat bed) to the ramps? I know by 2 pin connector but I was told that they no longer give pins out, only 2 red/black wire pigtail ones. So do I solder them to the pigtails? But then I can not hook up the z-probe, as I only have 2 connectors.
Instructions are confusing as it shows it as you just plugging them in.

Also isn't the Ramps board suppose to have pins for the 20 04 LCD/sd? Seems I'm missing the 20 part.

Another thing when I try to calibrate the actual Z height, it will not get close enough to the bed, stops about maybe 10mm above heat bed.

I know its quiet a few questions...

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cman8
Can anyone whom uses the lcd tell me how to print from sd card. I can't get mine to print no matter what I've tried.

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tadawson

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cman8
Can anyone whom uses the lcd tell me how to print from sd card. I can't get mine to print no matter what I've tried.

Click for the menu. Scroll to 'Print from SD', click to select. Scroll to the file you want to print, click to select. The printer should home, heat, and print at this point. If not, verify that the temps it is trying to hit are rational . . . it won't start until both extruder and bed are up to temp.

- Tim

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cman8

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tadawson

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cman8
Can anyone whom uses the lcd tell me how to print from sd card. I can't get mine to print no matter what I've tried.

Click for the menu. Scroll to 'Print from SD', click to select. Scroll to the file you want to print, click to select. The printer should home, heat, and print at this point. If not, verify that the temps it is trying to hit are rational . . . it won't start until both extruder and bed are up to temp.

- Tim

Tim. Everything works as should but when it comes time to print, the nozzle comes down as it's written in my g code but never starts to print. I'm starting to think this lad doesn't actually work as my conversations with folgertech and reading here don't seem to look very promising. I really would like to just print form the lcd but looks like I might just be hooking up and old computer to print from.

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wrangellboy
I'm having an issue with x/y axis shift. All my prints end up shifting towards the "front" of the print, in pronterface the equivalent of equal amounts of -x & -y. My rails operate smoothly, although the rear rail does take a little extra force. I've tried turning up & down the stepper driver for the rear tower. Slowing the print down drastically seems to help, but even that isn't 100%. The belts are tight and not skipping. Any thoughts? In general, what speed settings are people using in slic3r? I'm about to pull my hair out here. Should I just order some beefy stepper motors?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

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thevisad

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EdwinCal
Hey guys Im new to the forum so Hello,
So I got my kit the other day and have build it but Im having a few issues.
How do you connect the thermistors (hot end/heat bed) to the ramps? I know by 2 pin connector but I was told that they no longer give pins out, only 2 red/black wire pigtail ones. So do I solder them to the pigtails? But then I can not hook up the z-probe, as I only have 2 connectors.
Instructions are confusing as it shows it as you just plugging them in.

Also isn't the Ramps board suppose to have pins for the 20 04 LCD/sd? Seems I'm missing the 20 part.

Another thing when I try to calibrate the actual Z height, it will not get close enough to the bed, stops about maybe 10mm above heat bed.

I know its quiet a few questions...

This site pretty much sums it up on the wiring. Look it over and it will point you in the right direction. The LCD needs a board that you get when you buy your LCD panel, like this one from eBay. If you did not get it, then contact the place you bought your panel from. Look at picture 2, that's what it will look like and picture 3 shows it mounted on the Ramps.

Last and not least, you built it wrong, you need to lower the rails on the arms by at least 10mm and more likely more then that. Measure from the trip of the hotend to your bed, it should be roughly 250mm give or take 6 or so.

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wrangellboy
Shifting probably isn't the right term. Basically everything starts printing offset by a couple mm, the offset is always directly away from the rear tower. I can achieve a similar offset by entering matching -x/-y in pronterface (ie g1 x-1 y-1). It seems like it has to be the stepper missing steps, but I don't know what to do about it. I've triple checked the belts, they're good. I switched out the stepper driver, no change. Upped the ref voltage on the stepper driver, no change. The only way I can avoid it is to slow the print speed way down, and that will get me a good part some times but not all...

I attached some of the cubes I've printed today.