Why not post the G-Code file you have - some kind soul can probably show you how to edit it manually. It's not "rocket science" to understand the G-Code that your slicing software generates - just open it in the text editor of your choice, and see the official reference here: If you examine your G-Code file, you will see that there are only a few commonly used commands, such as the following,by julianh72 - Printing
QuoteDownunder35m 2. I fail to understand why anyone would want to have the next layer printed the same way as the first - there is a very good reason why it works that way... For what it's worth - in one or more of their previous posts, the OP has explained they are trying to do some sort of research into inter-filament bonding, and they believe they need identical layers for that purpose. I canby julianh72 - Printing
mturson, You have asked essentially the same question several times in the last few months, and each time it has been answered the same way: Common slicing software deliberately rotates successive fill layers to achieve a strong solid build; having successive layers cross each other produces a good 3-dimensional near-homogeneous matrix, while you are trying to deliberately force parallel touchiby julianh72 - Printing
You need to look at the firmware that you are running, and what it does after it completes the "Move" commands that you send to it. For example, all of my steppers are "locked solid" when the printer is under the control of the Pronterface UI (so current is being supplied to all motors, held in position and ready to move), but at completion of a print job, the G-Code includes a M84 "Stop Idle Hoby julianh72 - Reprappers
I would second Digital Dentist's comments, and strongly recommend that your first project should be based on a proven design (such as a Prusa i3, for example), and should run "standard" electronics and firmware. Arduino Mega and RAMPS 1.4 may not be the most powerful electronics option available, but it has plenty of capacity for most hobby desktop-sized printers, It can be bought pre-assembled vby julianh72 - Reprappers
Don't feel too bad - we've all done something similar. (But this must set something of a record for how long it took to "spot the deliberate mistake"!)by julianh72 - Reprappers
+1 for the option of printing from SD Card. You can buy LCD controllers with an SD slot to suit RAMPS 1.4 for $20 or less, and this will let each printer run independently. One PC can do all of your slicing and firmware updates etc. If you have multiple printers with different configurations, you may need to re-slice your models for each set-up and copy the g-code files onto the appropriate SDby julianh72 - General
Thanks for all the feedback. I've been pretty happy with my recent prints, and haven't had many issues with stringing etc - but for some reason, this particular print was getting some stringing, but it was very easy to clean off. I've made a few hardware and firmware improvements recently, which has improved the quality and reliability a lot (new all-metal hot-end, bearings on all axes, etc), aby julianh72 - Printing
That X-Carriage looks a lot like one that I printed for my 1st-Generation Prusa Mendel, where the 2 X-Axis rods are side-by-side, not on top of each other. The carriage lies horizontally and the extruder sits on top of it. It looks like the wrong carriage for an i3, but as imqqmi says, you should be able to drill some holes to get the extruder to fit and then print yourself a new carriage.by julianh72 - Reprappers
I have installed the Windows 10 update on 4 laptops and a tablet. The tablet is less than a year old and came with Windows 8.1; the laptops vary in age from about 12 months to 5 years old (that one came with Vista pre-installed, and a free voucher for Windows 7 which was released a couple of months after I bought the laptop). Zero issues on any of my machines - all software on all machines workby julianh72 - General
I like the concept, but I'm just wondering whether Ethernet and USB cable is really up to the job of carrying the amp load required by the steppers and hot end? (I don't know; I just know that my cabling is heavier than Ethernet / USB. I believe Cat 5 Ethernet cable is good for about 0.5 amps per conductor.)by julianh72 - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
So, I designed and printed this part (actually two mating parts), and got a rather elegant pattern of stringing where the print head jumped across from one stiffening flange to the one on the opposite side if the diameter. (The strings and blobs are hanging in space on the centre-line of the split cylinder, not attached to the cylindrical face.) I'm happy with the print quality overall, and it wby julianh72 - Printing
Make a folded wheel as per the attached sketch - the hub lies flat on the print bed, and can be as big as your printable area. The 4 rim sectors are printed folded upwards at 90 degrees, but hinge down after printing. The hinge lines are printed thin enough to bend but with enough material to stay attached when they are bent flat. (You may need some "strong-back" pieces to hold the wheel rigid whby julianh72 - General
Thingiverse has a number of designs for segmented wheels which are bigger than the print bed - e.g. see: "Modular Printable Spool" Basically, you split the rim into several pieces, and use spokes to join the rim segments to the hub. (Think of how a wagon-wheel is made.) Maybe you can get some design inspiration there?by julianh72 - General
QuoteRRuser In addition to some insulation (I'm using pressed cotton) to reduce conducted heat, also put a sheet of aluminum foil to reflect back the radiated heat. Don't short anything out though. Also, my Marlin shows 255, not 127: ============================= PID > Bed Temperature Control =============== #define MAX_BED_POWER 255 // limits duty cycle to bed; 255=full current Have youby julianh72 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
There is also an LCD controller option for the Melzi called the Panelolu2 but I have no experience with this hardware set-up.by julianh72 - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
ozzieengineer, Assuming your machine uses a standard control board (RAMPS 1.4 or similar), I strongly suggest getting a "RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller" which has an SD Card slot, and also has a display screen and rotary control button. Once you have modified and flashed the firmware, you can "cut the cord" to your PC altogether, and drive / monitor all functions from the graphicsby julianh72 - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
I just got an email that there is an "Onshape Meetup" at the Brisbane Hackerspace on 29 September. I'm not sure if I'll make it along, but I thought I would share. If you're not familiar with it, Onshape is a terrific (and free!) cloud-based MCAD system, which runs in a browser (no "installation" required, so you can run it anywhere there is an Internet connection), or on native iOS and Androiby julianh72 - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
Most people find that when they build a RepRap machine from scratch, it will do that "glitching" all too often by itself, and the challenge is how to STOP it from happening!by julianh72 - 3D Design tools
I've already got cork-board under the PCB, and the acrylic platform underneath doesn't seem to get too hot. Putting some insulation on top during heat-up is a good idea - I'll give it a try and report back soon. I don't know how to hack my ATX Power Supply to 13.3 volts output, so I'll park that idea for now.by julianh72 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
It seems the issue has been around a while - after reading enif's helpful post, I did a bit more googling, and found this Google Groups thread from 2012 where Joel Chia explains it in a bit more detail. As he says in his post from 07 May 2012: I've gotten used to reading it as "heater is on for xxx ms every 127 ms" That's a nice geeky way of thinking about it - I can live with that, now that Iby julianh72 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks Enif! So... Is the fact that Marlin only reports PWM out of 127 (rather than 255) documented somewhere, or is it a bug? It sure confused the heck out of me! It seems that if I'm getting full PWM power cycles, I'll have to investigate other options to get my bed temperature higher. (Eg better bed insulation, an enclosure, etc) Thanks for the feedback everybody!by julianh72 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
So I've taken the plunge, and I'm playing with the current stable release of Marlin on my Prusa Mendel with RAMPS 1.4 and a PCB Heat Bed, powered by an ATX Power Supply. (I've been on a 2012 build of Sprinter until now.) I've tried activating PID Temperature Control to both the Hot End and the Heat Bed, and it works very nicely - it keeps the temperatures of both MUCH more stable than my old Bangby julianh72 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
The recess can probably have vertical sides, it doesn't necessarily have to close back in on the cast-in item. When you start printing again, the next layer will probably melt down slightly over the embedded item, almost filling the gap, and securing the part.by julianh72 - Printing
Would this work? From the Pronterface GUI: Pause Print Move Printhead clear (eg Shift X axis a known amount - don't "Home" it) Tinker Move Printhead back (by reversing the previous shift) Resume Print Or does moving the Printhead under manual control kill the Print? I would suggest you can design the part to allow your components to be positioned fully below the top surface when you placby julianh72 - Printing
Three of four years of university / college studying Mechanical Engineering or Industrial Design is the usual approach! Try a Google search for "industrial design for dummies" and see what comes up - eg: Hope this helps!by julianh72 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I wasn't aware that this forum was aimed specifically at low cost 3D printers Perhaps it's time to re-visit the front page of RepRap.org to remind ourselves of what the RepRap project is actually about: RepRap takes the form of a free desktop 3D printer ... RepRap is about making self-replicating machines, and making them freely available for the benefit of everyone.by julianh72 - General
Just to expand on what the_digital_dentist said: SketchUp was not really designed for 3D printing. A SketchUp model can have multiple "objects" which lie adjacent to each other (or even intersect) but which are are not logically or topologically connected. What you want is a proper MCAD package, where you can create parts from multiple 2D sketches or 3D "primitives" (cubes, spheres, cylinders,by julianh72 - Slic3r
I found that Slic3r takes a REALLY long time to transfer the G-Code file to the SD card on my printer. It is much quicker to save the G-Code file to my PC's hard drive, insert the memory card into the PC's card reader slot and copy the file across, and then move the memory card back to the printer. Hope this helps!by julianh72 - Slic3r
Not all masking tapes work - I found that genuine branded "Blue Tape" works very well, but generic masking tape generally doesn't work very well, whatever colour it is.by julianh72 - Printing