Awesome! Throwing my printer in for testing if you need one. Can't wait for these to hit the stores!by Sniper4395 - General
I should have looked harder... There was an internal face that was keeping the whole thing from working. My bad. Chess set will be posted when it's done, so check back on my Thingiverse page for a copy! Thanks for looking everyone! Ying-Yang On Thingiverseby Sniper4395 - 3D Design tools
Hey guys/gals, Hope this is the correct place to post about this. My girlfriend is making a few things for me in Sketchup and I cant figure out how to get them to print. Been using Guitar-List to convert her files to STL format, but I'm getting Manifold errors. Went back and edited the file as best I could using the wiki as a guide, but still getting manifold errors and such. This is just a siby Sniper4395 - 3D Design tools
Thank you! This might not have been worth a new topic, but at least now other new guys can search it and find this out. Figured out the wiggle as well. If you own a Printrbot, stick another linear bearing on the X-Axis and make sure whichever Extruder your using the weight is centered. My Wades' Accessible with a heavy motor was causing a lot of shaking. -Tomby Sniper4395 - Printing
Hey guys/gals, Been having a lot of this black gunk build up on the rails and I'm not sure where its coming from. Hope you can see it in the pictures! Been lubricating with White Lithuim Grease which comes in a spray can. The printer is newly built/operational, so I'm not sure if this will be a recurring problem. The rails do seem to run better after cleaning this gunk off and adding fresh greasby Sniper4395 - Printing
Spot on MotoBarsteward! After after adjusting the nuts on the threaded bars that make up the base/frame dew-hicky the bed moved a lot more smoothly. this also seems to be one of those rare occasions when one can use too much lube. Also I've been greatly underestimating the importance of a level print bed and proper Z-height. ended up carving a few squares in the kaptom tape, BUT more importantby Sniper4395 - Printing
Much better! Picture shows attempts in order from left to right, right being a 50mm tower attempt. Do you guys have any tips for the Y rods sticking? Been using White Lithium grease, but the rods stick in the same spots everytime. Thinkin' there's a nick in the belt or on the rod. Digital caliper thingy is in the mail. Hopefully a respectable hollow cube is on the horizon.by Sniper4395 - Printing
Right! Forgot to double check the X pully. I'll check on that this weekend. Was thinking that the Motor and/or stepper driver was overheating, but your explaination makes more sense. Thanks again. I'll repost on Printrbottalk this weekend also. If this resolves the issue then maybe it'll help someone else out.by Sniper4395 - Printing
Attempted my first print, a Hollow Cube. As you can see it is neither hollow nor a cube. haha Some specs. Printrbot, Printrboard, Marlin, Printrun, Slicer. The hollow part I understand can be adjusted in Slicer with infill and such, but whats up with the vertical layer offset? That doesnt make any sense to me. Thank you all in advance for any help. Where would the RepRap community be wiby Sniper4395 - Printing
Good questions! Sitting in on this one... Not exactly a newbie to printing (Started printing about 8 months ago) but the firmware still confuses me a lot. The only thing I know about the PID max is whats stated in the firmware "too big, and heater will lag after changing temperature, too small and it might not compensate enough for long-term errors." Also I've never seen anyone set it higher thby Sniper4395 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hey guys, Since my last post I've tried using Sanguino-0023r3 instead of Sanguino-0023r4 with Arduino 0023 and now I'm getting what looks like a more common error. Quoteavrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51 So I'm gonna look at that as improvement. Your probably gonna think I'm an idiot for having just realized thisby Sniper4395 - Sanguino(lolu)
Hey that's a good suggestion. I've tried it with and without the PSU attached, but trying it after detaching RAMPS never occurred to me. It's a 2560 with Polulu A4988 Steppers and RAMPS 1.4 Thanks for the tip! Glad to see that we have some real RepRap experts in the DC area.by Sniper4395 - Baltimore/Wash. DC (and environs) RUG
Hey brnrd, It isn't that I prefer one over the other. Ever since purchasing RAMPS I've been having trouble getting Sprinter to upload to it. No compilation errors. The idle LED will blink once and then nothing until Arduino gives up and gives me a timed-out error. When it works properly the LED will blink once, pause, then blink rigorously and finish up in seconds. At first I was able to work tby Sniper4395 - Baltimore/Wash. DC (and environs) RUG
Hey guys, Noticed that nobody has ever tried to start a meetup in this area before. I'm living in Stafford and would love to get together some day to discuss or work on our printers. If there is already an active meetup in the area please let me know and I can show up for the next one. If your living in the area and think a meetup might be fun then just put a post in this thread so we know yoby Sniper4395 - Northern Virginia RepRap Usergroup
Hello, Living in Northern Virginia (Stafford.) If you guys ever hold a meetup I'd love to go. I've owned a Printrbot since before all the STL files were even released. Had a good fellow print the ones available at the time for me and then the rest of them when they were available and I put it all together from pictures of the finished product on Flickr. haha Currently switching out the RAMPS fby Sniper4395 - Baltimore/Wash. DC (and environs) RUG
Hello everyone, For the lazy readers out there I'll paraphrase by saying that I cant get Sprinter to compile for the Sanguinololu board v1.3b found on reprap.me. A little background. I'm a bit of a newbie with no electronics or engineering background save for building my own gaming PCs for the last decade or so. Actually I'm a security officer for a living if that tells you anything. About a yeby Sniper4395 - Sanguino(lolu)
It's a better choice to go with the machined aluminum couplers. Got mine for 8$ off eBay. The belt pulleys will have to match the belt. You can use anything you want, but the original Printrbot uses XL belts. When you buy the belt you can also buy pulleys with it depending on your source. The extruder is also something you can choose yourself. I got a Wades extruder off eBay for 50$, just neeby Sniper4395 - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Ditto, Not to jack your thread, but I'm looking for the same thing and it seems a waste to post a new topic for this. Printrbot parts, including version 2 parts, ABS preferred but anything is good. Someone on eBay is selling them in beautiful high-quality at the time of this posting, but it's all version-1 parts and I'm not thrilled about the 85$ price. Best of luck, -Tomby Sniper4395 - Job Shop: I need stuff made!