Wierd, it almost looks like the lower motor mount doesn't line up with the top support. I'd take the top plate off that lower motor mount, the one where the motor screws to. And line it up with the top support using the smooth rod as a guide. The hole for the lead screw should be exactly in the middle of the motor hole. If it's not, one of those pieces is wrong.by blt3dp - Reprappers
Quotelkharr The lead screws are not constrained at the top so I don't think its that. I'll try printing those thinks and see if that makes a difference. You might have to modify them to fit your machine before you print them.by blt3dp - Reprappers
I had the same problem and chased it for a month. Take the lead screws out completely and try moving it up and down by hand, it should be easy to move up. It should also fall quickly under it's own weight. If it doesn't, there's something causing binding. Doesn't sound like it's the bearings from what you've described. Could also be that the vertical rails aren't perfectly parallel to each oby blt3dp - Reprappers
Looks to be pretty consistent with the thread of your lead screw. If your lead screws are constrained at the top (in a bearing), try removing the bearing. It'll allow the screws to move around a bit so that motion isn't directly translated to the X Ends. You may also look into a type of adapter piece to decouple the ball screw from the X Ends, that way it's allowed to move around and not affecby blt3dp - Reprappers
The fan for the heatsink of the hotend should be on all the time. It should be wired to 12v directly.by blt3dp - Prusa i3 and variants
2560 is correct for 8mm threaded rod with 1.8 degree Nema 17 and 1/16 microstepping.by blt3dp - Prusa i3 and variants
Longer, thinner parts like that will want to pull up and curl like that too when you print ABS. When the top layers cool they shrink and pull pulling it off the bed. A warped part won't be so good for calibrating. I'd print a different calibration object, like DigitalDentist's Calibration Cube ABS likes a heated bed, I'd set it at 105c-110c Is your printer enclosed? ABS also likes an enclosby blt3dp - Reprappers
Is #define min_software_endstops set to true?by blt3dp - General Mendel Topics
What app are you using to model? Are the parts like extrusions, motors, pulley's, etc part of a library? Edit: ah, Solidworksby blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
Take a look at this. When I was looking at datasheets for these rails. I believe the holes are spaced perfectly so you could extend the X Rails a bit and connect them to the blocks on the Y, using 2 screws. That would make it alot more rigid, and you wouldn't need to fabricate the "ears" on the green part.by blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
Check the motor wiring. Use your multimeter and check that it's wired up right. It should be like this Pins 1&2 should show continuity between each other, but nothing else, and should be right next to each other in the connector. Pins 3&4 should show continuity between each other, but nothing else, and should be right next to each other in the connector. If they're not that way, you'lby blt3dp - Reprappers
I'd use a file comparison tool to compare the configuration.h from your current setup with a clean version from Marlin v1 to see what changes were made I'd take note of those and just start with a clean version of RC6 and transplant those settings where necessary, changing nothing else. Then tweak from there. Can you attach as a file your current configuration.h from Marlin v1?by blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
I tried Marlin RC1 through RC6 and RC1 was the only one that worked. I ended up with the current stable release 1.0.2-1 but it kept giving me serial disconnects. Flashed back to my original version.by blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
I did 2 things. 1. I flashed the HID bootloader (included in package below, you need to use the icsp header on the Printrboard and an ISP programmer (I used an Arduino Mega 2560 I had from a RAMPS setup) 2. Installed Arduino 1.6.8 and used the package from here: https://github.com/scwimbush/Printrboard-HID-Arduino-IDE-Support Flash of Marlin from Arduino IDE only works on Windows with that packby blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
Finally took the time to get this done once and for all. First I bought a Speed Square, generally used for Construction Framing. But I liked that it had a wider base on one side. I could sit it on end and it wouldn't rock. I bought this one specifically because even though it's cast aluminum, it has CNC'd edges Johnny Square Then I tested it by using an edge that I know is straight, put it oby blt3dp - General Mendel Topics
Running a Printrboard Rev.D, just meticulously went through configuration.h Uploaded it to the board and that was successful But it either appears to not be booting, or not communicating None of the host software that I've tried (Repetier. Octoprint) can connect to it. Appears to be only an issue with Marlin RC6, I can upload Repetier Firmware as well as the latest stable Marlin 1.0.2-1 and it'by blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteTwoAndAHalfDimensions Example attached. Closer model printing first. You can see the non-adhesion. And in the further model I've made my Z adjustment, after which the print proceeds as normal. No errors like this between subsequent layers. Looks like the end of the bed closest in the pic may not be as close to the nozzle as the rest. I'd check that your bed is level Also I'd move Z axis dby blt3dp - Printing
Yeah, looks like the X is not orthogonal to the Y. I know the Prusa i3 is usually a vertical plate held to the bed assembly by a couple of nuts, and it also relies on the position of those nuts for alignment, looks like one of those might be off causing it to not be square.by blt3dp - Reprappers
4000 should be the right number for what you have I'd check to make sure that all 3 jumpers are installed under the Z stepper driver on the control board. Make sure that you can move the entire gantry up by hand and it moves smoothly and doesn't bind. Ensure the Z motor couplings are tight on the motor and the threaded rod, and that they aren't slipping. Along the same lines, make sure that inby blt3dp - Prusa i3 and variants
I'd say not insane, but complicated. I'd be worried about the bowden tubes being pulled out, but as you were thinking, some way of doing strain relief by attaching them to the carriages might be ok. If I had a Diamond, I'd design a custom 3 block extruder and just go direct (geared or direct drive) on them, and know that I won't be going super fast. The only tubes I'd have would be just as guiby blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
It's possible that it's taken on moisture from the air. Could cause it to swell up in the hotend and jam also. http://reprap.org/wiki/PLA#Moisture_Issues I have another question From the drawing, it almost looks like the barrel is too large for the filament. If you could, you might have to take the extruder arm and gear off, but look down the barrel and see if the hole somewhat larger than yby blt3dp - Printing
Also, your endstops should be at these locations, when you're looking at the front of the printer X = Left Y = Back Z = Bottom If that's where they are, you would have these lines this way MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_X true MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Y true MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Z true MAX_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_X false MAX_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Y false MAX_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Z false #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOMby blt3dp - Reprappers
This line is incorrect #define Z_HOME_DIR 1 That is telling it to home to the MAX position, it should be -1 for it to move to the MIN Also this line would be wrong also #define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MAX true It should be false, UNLESS you also have an Endstop at the top That will no doubt change the way it moves when you hit the home button If it moves towards the Endstop at the bottom, then yoby blt3dp - Reprappers
If you know the details of the motor and lead screw, use the Prusa Calculatorby blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
Your steps per mm shouldn't be a guess, and 320 sounds like the microstepping isn't setup correctly. Your steps pe rmm should be calculated based off of the motor step angle, the microstepping, and the screw pitch Unless you've got wierd motors, they're gonna be Nema 17, with 1.8 degree step angle If you're using a RAMPS based board, make sure you've got all 3 jumpers placed under the Z Axis Stby blt3dp - Reprappers
Yep, get the scads from Github, generate STLs and then import into Inventor with Mesh Enablerby blt3dp - General Mendel Topics
Are you using a single nut to keep it all together? Usually it's 2 nuts that are tightened up against each other and hold each other in place.by blt3dp - Reprappers
Quoterobkar Perfect, what you've built is exactly what I have in the drawings for my machine, as far as the CoreXY part goes (mostly), I actually had a question about the linear rail for the X, as the carriage gets towards the middle, does the weight flex it down at all? Looks like you've got a supporting piece of metal that the X rail connects to, and that connects to the Y linear blocks. Iby blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
Check out the "compliation" of food safety standards for sanitary construction of food equipment that the University of Florida's Food Science and Human Nutrition Department put together. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fs119 Basically Stainless Steel of a particular grade and non-toxic, non porous materials for everything.by blt3dp - Developers
I dunno if there was any official consensus, but I'm of the belief that if your belt path needs to turn in a way where teeth need to go against an idler, it should be a toothed. If the turn makes the smooth side go against an idler, it should be a smooth one.by blt3dp - CoreXY Machines