Akhlut, I came in here to say the same thing but you stole my words. QuoteBut why not ramps or a ramps derivative? +1by xclusive585 - General
One thing I haven't seen anyone mention here: Makerbots firmware defaults to PWM for the extruder control, i.e. by default it will not "think" in steps per mm... Maybe that'll help.by xclusive585 - General
Github is where you want. 1. Download the Zip folder. (icon upper left of the page) 2. Extract the contained "kliment-Printrun...." folder into your "home" (/home/oliver/) directory -this can be done by right clicking the zip, opening the zip and dragging the kliment folder into your home, or any number of other methods. 3. Follow the earlier instructions to launch it. HTH -Dave [If youby xclusive585 - General
Wow, crazy. So much for open source. GPL lovers need an alternative and we need it now.by xclusive585 - General
I think people should follow Prusa's example, and post their work on github. I understand that browsing github for .stl's is not a easy or seamless operation, but perhaps in time someone can build a database that follows "things" that exist on github. If one really wants to share their work openly, it should be licensed under GPL. Thingiverse terms and conditions are in conflict with the GPL, sby xclusive585 - General
Thanks you, Yoda does.by xclusive585 - General
So, I was doing a print yesterday that kept lifting off of my blue tape. So I got some elmers and mixed it with water and removed my tape and applied it to my glass. Man did that work! no lifting at all. Unfortunately I now have a 200x200mm piece of glass stuck to the bottom of my .05mm slice Yoda. Im trying not to destroy it's base too bad trying to get it off. How about soaking the whole thby xclusive585 - General
I have a prusa, with crap lm8uu bearings, crap XL belts, and it's not highly tuned. I've yet to see any noticable 'backlash' in my prints. Parts that are tricky and meant to be press fits, come out perfect every time. I've done about 3/4 of my extra prusa parts already, no issues with holes. I suppose I'll try the x-carriage next. So while he may have backlash, to me that looks like too much ofby xclusive585 - General
You may have better luck removing what you've installed, and then getting one of the pre-compiled printrun packages, unzip the kliment-printrun folder and dump it in your home folder, and then run it like: python /home/oliver/kliment-Printrun-b6935b9/pronterface.py The name of your kliment-Printrun folder may vary. Oh, and if that gives you issues, sometimes you have better luck with it runninby xclusive585 - General
wrong post, please feel free to delete.by xclusive585 - General
Prusa mendel from any of the several quality vendors around, for people new to reprap who plan on getting into the hobby.by xclusive585 - General
flying freak Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > bissaorboea01, > > Thank you!! I figured out that it wasnt even the Z > that was causing my problems rather the Z was > dimensionally correct but the X and Y were out of > wack. I went from 80 steps per mm (producing 1inch > cube at 1.234inches) to 64.83 which produces cubes > of 1.020 few mroeby xclusive585 - General
Have you tried some of the other options people use for PLA, maybe they will work for your application? Kapton Tape (expensive! like wow expensive) Mixture of water and white (elmers) glue applied to bed with cloth or brush in a thin coat. (I've never done this and peoples recommended ratios vary, see the "printing" forum here.)by xclusive585 - General
I'm really curious if the heater block is steel like the rest of the unit. It would make more sense to use aluminum for the heater block, even while using steel for the tube/nozzle combo.by xclusive585 - General
If you are using slic3r, the temps can be set in the settings before you slice your file into g-code as well.by xclusive585 - General
Airtripper Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think your fine printing ambitions is probably > better suited using 1.75mm filament. You're trying > to manipulate a large amount of melted plastic to > control a tiny output. > > See if increasing the layer height makes a > difference. I will give it a shot, why not. But with a .35mm tip, is .by xclusive585 - General
rogerw Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > even if you somehow did clean up the crime and > made everyone healthy and happy you would still > have the people > who want a gun to rise up against the govt - and > these seem to be the ones with the big guns. > how many people would have guns for this reason do > you think. if there was no street criby xclusive585 - General
Just curious why can't you just use the .stl files posted there?by xclusive585 - General
I'm more interested in their filament extruder. If it produces decent filament with accurate widths. Upon looking over the highschool drawn notebook plan, I really do not see nearly enough parts to produce accurately extruded plastic. I've been looking around some of the solutions currently in work, and I'm waiting for a reliable design with at least one set of custom manufactured round rollersby xclusive585 - General
Idolcrasher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Start with slic3r 9.1 until something newer than > 9.7 comes out. There are some nasty bugs in > Slic3r 9.2 - 9.7 Just spent some time reading up on your comments and others on github. I see that my corner pimples may be an issue of my slic3r version, which you somehow knew I'm using 9.7 by looking at my prinby xclusive585 - General
Dan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm pro-gun. That doesn't mean pro-assault rifle. > There isn't a single reason anybody NEEDS to have > an assault rifle or any gun with high capacity > mags. I keep a Glock 26 in my house for personal > defense. 14 rounds and I never keep it chambered. > If I need 14 rounds to stop an intruder then a >by xclusive585 - General
OK. I've built the thing, and I've now had over a week of printing and many prints. On my second day I got a .1mm yoda bust off, looked mint. Any parts with round edges come out mint. My sizes are close enough to perfect to keep me happy. All in all, this thing went together almost too nicely. I do .25mm slices typically. Using slic3r/pronterface on a prusa lm8uu. Marlin firmware, Ramps 1.4. Noby xclusive585 - General
After looking into that "m7?" Laser unit on Ebay, I am for sure going to order one in the next two months. 1) Step one is going to be to replace the electronics with documented reprap electronics. (Ramps or whatever will be simplest for me as I'm far from an electrical engineer, I like the idea of using a ramps because it is an all inclusive solution, the only addon board I can picture needingby xclusive585 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Interesting read guys. I would use a RAMPS for this type of project, (yes I know I'd be wasting 3 drivers...) just out of my own inexperience and liking things in one package. As soon as I started planning my reprap, I started to think of all of the 2D applications that could be accompished with the polished firmwares and electronics available openly under GPL. A laser cutter will definitely beby xclusive585 - Laser Cutter Working Group
I'd love to see a close up of a .1mm/layer print once you get that thing dialed in. MendelMax seems like it should be sturdy and accurate, even at higher speeds...by xclusive585 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
thecrazy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Well then I guess we dont really care about > sailfish then, I dont see pauses when printing > anyways. Most likely the autor of marlin will take > a peek at sailfish and if there is anything really > good he will take note of it. > > BTW Wraithnot if your still having crashes when > printing over uby xclusive585 - Reprappers
martinprice2004 Wrote: ... > > As for CNC milling XY table is probably the best > for normal sized work. For larger work the only > way to go is a gantry setup because you cannot > move very large workpieces. Totally untrue. The Largest CNC milling unit I've ever seen, had a moving bed. The gantry could go up some 20-30 feet, the bed was about 70 Feet long and 20 feet wide, andby xclusive585 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
What about Reprapdiscount Arduinos? Are those fakes? They are from Hong Kong, and look very real, except for the fact that they match the Pololus they sell perfectly, as if the arduinos are manufactured by them on the same equpment as their pololus... Hmmm Thoughts?by xclusive585 - RAMPS Electronics
First off you should troubleshoot a little to make sure what your problem is. for example leaving your heat OFF, switch the connections for the temp sensors. If the beds sensor reads the same 200c (from the hotend readout) when pluged into the hotend temp, then perhaps you are correct something is wrong with that pin. Another thing, is perhaps your firmware is set to the wrong type of thermistorby xclusive585 - RAMPS Electronics
It adjusts your feedrate. 100% runs at your set speeds. 50% would run at half your speed, 150% would bump up your speed by 1.5x, so on so forth.by xclusive585 - RAMPS Electronics