Quotethe_digital_dentistABS will can delaminate once print height gets a few cm above the heated bed if the printer is not enclosed.FTFY. I've never printed in an enclosed printer and I've never have had an issue with delamination with ABS at any height.by cdru - General
How many extrudes do you have defined in your Configuration.h file? The M218 code is ignored if EXTRUDERS = 1.by cdru - General
IR thermometers are usually inaccurate pointed at relatively shiny metal such as aluminum. Use a thermocoupler shoved down the hole if you want an accurate reading.by cdru - General
The way you have it wired in your photo is fine although the two terminals further from the corner aren't necessary since you don't have a heated bed. The terminals closest to the corner is fused at 5 amps and normally will draw about that, or about 60 watts so you should be fine. If you decide to get a heated bed in the future, depending on your bed's resistance (suppose to be 1.0-1.2 omhs) yoby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
Quote691175002 Why bother with extrusion when the correct components are easily available?Short answer is reduced cost (hopefully) and complexity. Using extrusion allows you to reduce your part count. If you can use extrusion that is Good Enough™ for both structural support and linear movement, you kill two birds with one stone. No it might not be the greatest and most precise, but for many theby cdru - General
QuotecristianIt is obvious that stainless steel lasts much longer and is sturdier than aluminiumIt's obvious that you haven't looked into how obvious it is (or isn't). Without stating all sorts of things like dimensions, profile, alloy, wear surfaces, type of wear (linear bearing, bushing, wheel, etc) it's not at all obvious. In many cases aluminum may be a better choice than stainless steel.by cdru - General
R=V/I = 14 Volts / 6.5 Amps = 2.15 ohms. Add in a bit of resistance for wires and connectors and that jives with what you measured in your first post a little under 2 ohms. If the resistance was the 1.4-1.6 ohms that the wiki says it should be, than it would draw between 10 and 8.75 amps respectively. How much power is drawn by your board can be theoretically computed based on it's resistance aby cdru - General
QuotertrahmsWhen I point an IR thermometer at the hot end, I get a temperature that is much lower - not 220, but more like 130 deg C.IR thermometers accuracy varies greatly based on the emissivity coefficient of what is being measured. Every substance ranges from 0 to 1 with 1 being a perfect radiator, or a "blackbody". Most heat blocks are made of aluminum and have a emissivity coefficient a sby cdru - Printing
There was another thread sometime in the last month or two that mentioned the same thing. It was though to either be a design mistake or intentional since almost everyone uses 1/16th microstepping anyways. Since the headers weren't installed on your board, that would lend credence to the latter as it saves the cost of those über expensive 2x3 pin headers. If a user doesn't want 1/16th microsteby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteGalane Do you know of a comparable kit for less?That kit comes with a lot more than just electronics (I wouldn't have included the extruder, hot end, bowden tube, wiring etc... I was just thinking controller, LCD, heated bed, and heater cartridge). Just for comparison, RAMPS+controller+LCD+drivers will set you back $40. Another $10 for the heated bed. $1 per microswitch (you don't need tby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
The Controllers forum is probably the best place. A mod will probably be along in a bit to move it there. Welcome to the site.by cdru - Controllers
A piece of cardboard, insulation, cork, etc under it can also provide additional insulation value. A bed with lower resistance will also increase the power, allowing for higher temperatures and/or faster heating. My bed is .8 ohms and reaches 110 degrees in about 2 minutes with a 3/16" glass sheet on top, but also results in it drawing 15 amps and producing 180 watts of heat.by cdru - General
That would be a higher resistance that normally desired. According to the wiki 1.6 ohms is the high end of where it should be. That's definitely you're problem as it's lower powered plus the addition of a giant aluminum heat sink.by cdru - General
1. Is the hot end LED on? 2. Measure between the hot end + terminal and the - terminal of your power supply. What's your voltage there? 3. When the hot end should be on, what's the voltage between power supply - and the gate pin on the mosfet? The gate pin is the pin closest to the stepper drivers or polyfuse depending on which one you're measuring.by cdru - General
QuoteKurzaa In the case of a computer fan, I believe the third pin is for PWM control of the fan, so you can send a signal to only operate at 80% power or something similar. Otherwise I believe in a two wire setup the power is controlled by manipulating the power sent to the fan. EDIT: I would assume just using the red and black wires would control the fan just fine. The absence of a signal on tby cdru - General
Did it have a steel or stainless steel heat break? It's a knock off E3D hot end so they might have cheaped out and went with a steel heat break which conducts heat much better than stainless. It's also possible there was some contamination or buildup that caused the nozzle to jamb.by cdru - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist build a solid printer that's able to maintain the level setting throughout the range of motion of the X and Y axesSo what you're saying is that using a pink granite surface plate with a tolerance of .000050" might be overkill with my printer made from threaded rod and cheap Chinese linear bearings on drill rod with a hobbed bolt extruder made with a tap with a hand drill?by cdru - General
Yes, just swap the pins in the appropriate pins file.by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteGalaneAn eBay vendor has a 3D printer electronics kit that includes everything electric/electronic except a power supply for $219.95. They say their motors are 12V. I asked how much for that kit without the motors. $159 but they claim the 85 oz/in 6V 1.2A motors I have won't work with it.They are likely trying to get you to buy their stuff. Stepper motors aren't really rated for a voltage.by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
If you measured each bed individually (not wired together) and their resistance was the 3.5 to 3.9 ohm then I would say you have a bad batch of boards. Usually the boards are designed for around 120 watts (12 volts, 1.2 ohms, 10 amps). Manufacturing differences can play with the resistance but 3.5+ ohms is way out of spec for a 12V board. You're only getting about 40 watts out of those boards.by cdru - Controllers
QuoteLarsK I had a similar issue when the heatsink for the heated-bed was touching the heatsink for the extruder. See if the two mosfets backsides are maybe touching each other? It would Murphy law type of thing because you tried two RAMPS but worth checking anyways... The reason why this happened as it did is the metal tab is the same as the drain pin on most MOSFETs. When they touched you weby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteLarsKWhy is alu foils so much better then plain alu sheet? No idea, so much to learn.Aluminum foils don't dissipate the eddy currents as quickly as aluminum plate, so the sensor can detect the material better.by cdru - Controllers
Quotetandukion So, I really have to design it from scratch? with Arduino Mega and RAMPS Schematic as references. It will really help me if I can find the schematic of MKS Base, haha The schematic is available but it basically useless as it's just some XPS (similar to PDF) files that shows the basic individual circuits, but the layout files are not available nor is the schematic available in a reuby cdru - General
QuotelunarkingdomThey both have less than 1 thousandth of an inch in flatness, this is amazing to me, especially since I have been struggling to figure out how to achieve this very same thing. Are you talking about being flat, or being level? There's a difference and it's the latter that's usually the bigger issue.by cdru - General
Quoteenif The first problem to tackle was the horizontal mounting of the encoder. Even though it's possible to buy encoders which are made for this type of mounting, these are not easy to find and I also already still have a good number of vertical ones...They aren't THAT hard to find: right angle rotary encoders with detent and built in switch If someone needs to buy the encoder anyways, mightby cdru - Controllers
QuoteAndrewBCNSimply put: yes, much better.Can you not simply put it? Aside from cost and possibly more weight, what advantages does a steel frame give you that an aluminum can't?by cdru - General
QuoteOliveOyl So I believe that this amounts to two questions for the maker: Will it work? Will I get the displacements I expect from the different parts. Will it last? Is the material strong enough to resist these displacements, where will failure likely occur. I believe I can develop the software to address these questions. And possibly to help makers improve their designs. Then my next questiby cdru - General
Your measured resistance is more what a 12V/24V dual power bed sees when wired for 24V operation. If you have such a board, you need to measure between I believe pads 1 and 2 and 2 and 3 if you're going to use it at 12V. If it's not a dual voltage board and is designed for 12V, then you have a very weak board and it probably will have trouble warming up for PLA temps, let alone ABS.by cdru - Controllers
You'll have to figure out why it drew too much current. When you get a replacement heater, measure it's resistance to make sure it's within spec. If it's a 12V 30 watt cartridge heater, you'd expect the resistance to be E^2/P = R or 12^2 / 30 = 4.8 ohms. If it's significantly different, then you have the wrong voltage heater or quality control sucks. Also make sure it wasn't shorted out allowiby cdru - Controllers
Or replace the polyfuse with a 15amp blade fuse. Or use an external SSR to do the switching. Or if you feel adventurous and want to press your luck without fuse protection, power the bed directly from your power supply, bypassing the fuse. Just use the RAMPS board to switch the ground. If you want to make your own board based on the MEGA chip, just use a RAMPS schematic as a starting point. Orby cdru - General