Quoteusslindstrom*For the 1N4002 diode, it appears to have a few designations at the end (-T, -TB, -TP), are those significant, or just part #'s?Normally what the designations at the end mean will be listed in the datasheet. -T stands for tape, -TB stands for Tape Box and -TP is for Tape Reel. If you're only buying 1 or 2 or 10 how they are packaged doesn't matter. If you're buying 10,000 forby cdru - General
A regular ziplock sandwich baggie plastic film is about 50 microns thick. Even if you got your bed flat enough, and the obscene print time wasn't an issue, I would have serious questions whether you can physically extrude ABS, PLA, or any other common material in that thin of a layer consistently.by cdru - General
Quotedc42 If terminals 30 and 85 on the relay are the coil, and terminals 86 and 87 are the normally-open contacts, then that diagram is correct. However, the Omron relays I found on their web site do not have those connections. Please link to the datasheet of the relay you intend to use, or at least provide its part number.This datasheet matches the appearance and has the same pin numbers, but tby cdru - General
QuoteusslindstromPlease forgive my ignorance, but you're referring to the following then? *Attached.Yes. It's serving as a flyback or supression diode. When the RAMPS board cuts off the heated bed, the inductive load caused by the relay coil can cause a voltage spike. The diode allows the spike to flow back around through the relay where it's dissipated rather than back into your electronicsby cdru - General
Quotedc42 Something is overheating, probably the stepper motor drivers. Try reducing the motor currents, or aiming a fan at the drivers, or using better drivers.He mentions that when the problem occurs, the hot end "disengages", as well as when he switches the hotend off the motors begin to move again although slower. Both sound like symptoms of a polyfuse somewhere in the midst of tripping and rby cdru - Printing
QuoteleadinglightsI tried heater cartridges when they first came out but had 4 failures out of 5 - one burned out after ca 20 hours, one case short, one open circuit and one with a resistance of 13 Ohms. I would prefer to stick to resistors until I am convinced that there is a quality product on the market..Or perhaps you need to find a better source especially if the 4 of 5 came from the same baby cdru - General
What electronics are you using? If RAMPS, try aiming a fan at the electronics to see if things change. Your polyfuse may be doing it's job...or it might be defective and opening up before it's suppose to. Hooking up an ammeter would tell you how much current the 5 amp connector is drawing and would confirm the issue.by cdru - Printing
What is supplying the voltage for the servo? Are you jumpering the 5V and VCC pins? Or supplying another 5V source?by cdru - General
Power your aruduino via the 5VSB from the power supply. Connect the green wire to the PS_ON pin, and the normal 12V and ground connections to the main power connectors on the RAMP board. Issue M80 to turn on the full power and M81 to turn it off. Your arduino remains always powered via the 5VSB but it's almost a negligible amount of power consumption.by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteo_lampeThe bigger mass and surface may help to keep it cooler.No, they'll just take longer to heat up. And cool down.by cdru - General
QuoteSteveRoy I would imagine you would have to tweak your gcode before you print? After reaching the correct temps the printer will home via the endstops, then printSuch homing is likely just done in the pre- or post-print gcode and is easily removed. As Dust said though, expensive mistakes can easily happen. I'd design things so that if you decide to still not use end stops that something solby cdru - General
Quoteruggb When does +5V not = +5V?????? When it is on a Ramps schematic. 5v pins on the servo I/O appears to only go to the 5V pin next to the PS ON pin. It is not connected to any other 5v designation on the schematic. That 5v pin apparently is an INPUT pin for servo use. Where would one get 5v for that pin? You are correct that the 5V pin next to PS_ON is an input for supplying power to theby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteSpannerHands 1. What are the major pitfalls of making a large printer Large amount of power if you have a heated bed. Need of heated build chamber. Print time unless layer height and extruded width are large, then loss of quality. Need to use larger structural components due to spans involved. Increased diameter linear rods/rails/etc due to unacceptable amounts of sag with smaller diametersby cdru - General
Latest and correct are all relative. That branch sort of linked to should be the latest and most correct that Nophead maintains and has released. There's the main branch. Neildarlow has a branch that merges the two, giving you more recent features and bug fixes, but also has Nophead's changes as well. None are wrong firmware, just what features you're wanting for your printer. If you're using dby cdru - Mendel90
Is the inside needing to match the same profile as the outside? Instead of designing it solid with no infill, you could make it hollow and taper the inside so that the overhang isn't as sharp of an angle. You probably could get away with just having a taper the top 1/3 of the total height and not noticeable unless you flipped it over and looked inside.by cdru - Printing
The 3rd unlisted option is to use the 2nd extruder driver to power the 2nd Z-axis motor. If you're not using a dual extruder setup, it's the best of both worlds. You don't have to split the voltage as you do with series wired motors, and you don't have to split the current as you do with parallel wired. Overall, if you have to go with series or parallel I'd go with series wired. You lose speed,by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteKawobei If I hook up a DC/AC SSR do I need to add any other circuits or just go from mains (240v) active into the SSR AC side and then to the heat bed?You'd need to have a heated bed designed for AC and that voltage.by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteYellobello (steel is a much worse thermal conductor than aluminium, thats why the e3d heatbreak is made of steel). They are made of stainless steel, not steel. Stainless has about 1/3-1/4 the thermal conductivity of high and low carbon steel. QuoteIf the effect could be maximized, I would use a copper heatsink instead of an aluminium one Copper is much harder to machine than aluminum and itby cdru - General
QuoteZeprazy cdru, the problem is I don't have one power supply sufficent to power the whole bed so I try to use two less powerful which can both handle half of the bed (two different circuits). That's why I can't use the board mosfet as I need two separated switches. At first, I took a relay but I have to use pwm and the relay doesn't seem happy about it . Would it be possible to use another piby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
D8+ is always on, which means your secondary MOSFET is also always on. RAMPS boards switch power by switching the path to ground. The easiest way to do what you're trying to accomplish is a solid state relay. Is there a reason you're not just using the MOSFET on the RAMPS board? Comparing spec sheets, even though there are better MOSFETs than the one normally used on RAMPS, it's still betterby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
Presuming you meant Z instead of X, in Marlin there is also Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING and Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS.by cdru - General
Quotechris33E3d are doing a water cooled hotendThe difference between this and the Kracken is that the Kracken has 4 hot ends in a very small space. 4x the heat in confined area without a easy way to direct airflow across all heat sinks creates a unique problem, one which water cooling addresses. For a single extruder/hot end on a normal printer, I don't think those same problems exist and thereby cdru - General
That auction is definitely for a knockoff. No where does it actually say it's an E3D hotend. Just a "V6". A stainless steel heat break will have or very very weak magnetic attraction. A steel will have definite magnetic attraction. You said the heat sink fins are very hot. That's with the fan running? I'd have to double check my E3D but with the fan running on it I can't remember it gettinby cdru - Printing
QuotecristianBut here is another question then: how do you measure the precision of parts, if the vendor is not providing already this information? Measuring distances and diameters is easy in most of the cases, with a good caliper. But what if I wanted to measure (and I mean really measure, not just get a sense of) the tolerance of the straightness of an aluminum profile or of a stainless steelby cdru - General
Are you printing with ABS, PLA, or something else? PLA will need it. ABS doesn't. Other material maybe.by cdru - General
If it's a knockoff e3d, check to see if the heat break barrel is steel or stainless. Steel will allow heat to travel up the barrel much easier and lead to jamming, but it's cheaper and easier to produce so may get replaced with the knockoff. Can you link to the auction or seller of the hot end you bought? Are they an official reseller or located in China? The price you paid should also be closeby cdru - Printing
Quotevreihen There's your problem! Draw the 0.4mm circles and stack them. How much contact is there between the 0.4mm layers? I have a 0.4mm diameter nozzle, and run it at 0.2mm layer height (and occasionally 0.1mm layer height on important parts).....It's usually suggested to keep the maximum layer height to no more than 80% of the nozzle diameter to get sufficient squishing of the layer. Soby cdru - General
Quotethe_digital_dentistIf you were trying to design a printer to be sold as a kit and you were competing with 1000 other kit makers on price, I could understand your motivation to shave a few dollars out of the cost of the machine. If you're building a machine for yourself, presumably there's something you want to do that isn't readily available. Is cost the only factor driving the DIY impulseby cdru - General
Quotethetazzbot using extrusion does not reduce parts count at all. one rod, two linear bearings.... three parts, compared to one extrusion, mounting hardware, and roller mechanism which, if printed parts involved, already will be more complicated. It's going to depend very much on the what design you're using and how exactly you count things. How are things fastened? Number of fasteners? Areby cdru - General
Quotedougal1957Sounds to me from the op's description that he has a 12V to the 5 amps input and 24 to the 11A input don't think it is ever going to work like that, me I would use 12V to the Ramps and use something like a seven switch to drive a 24V heated bed.Sharing the same ground plane with different power supplies isn't normally an issue. Perhaps the power supply monitors the lines and if thby cdru - RAMPS Electronics