Hi all! I have this issue. Im starting to use B-PET (is a PETG but made from recicled PET). The filament is transparent, and should stay transparent o near that after being extruded. I can see comeing out of the extruder in a transparent color... but for some reason after coolin it changes to a white milky color.... and something more strage: I printed a calibration cube: 20X20X110 mm . 3 facby Tinchus - Printing
Gret. Im useing repetier firmware, so I will find out where I can change the homing command. Thanks a lot!by Tinchus - Slic3r
thanks for your suggestions. My actual homeing routine home X, then Y and Z in the end. I have configured my Y endstop so the nuts are out of the limits and the point X0 Y0 Z0 dont proveque the noozle crashing against the nut. The bad thing is that I loos 0.6 mm of each side of the building plate. If I want to take full advantage of my building plate, is it posible to bulid this routine?: 1- Hoby Tinchus - Slic3r
Hi all. I have configured a custom bed shape. I have atached the file. basically is a square of around 203mm. In the corners I have made a cut where the nuts of the bed levelling system goes. My questions are: slic3r takes the size of this stl file as the size of the bed? and about the shape of the bed, in the left lower corner, where a nut is suposed to be. That would be coordinates X0 Y0.... wby Tinchus - Slic3r
You should not have a problem finding the correct one for your extruder in thingiverseby Tinchus - Printing
Lack of grip was one of the things I also checked, but no, the hobbed bolt was doucle check, and its tension too, the problem was there despite of testing low tension, highes tension and all the posible range of tensions i the middle. And yes, once i finished the drying, I did the test again: 500 mm extrussion. The first 250 mm came on with no problems as before. then I pushes the piece of metalby Tinchus - Printing
Hi. I had a similar problem, read this (I found the solution today!), it might help you:by Tinchus - Printing
Hi. I had a similar problem, read this (I found the solution today!), it might help you, petg really likes water...:by Tinchus - Printing
Hi. I had a similar problem, read this (I found the solution today!), it might help you:by Tinchus - Printing
I think I solved the problem, this ight be useful for someone else too so I will make a sumary and the solution I found (is not new). I can perfectly print in ABS, but no with PLA and B-PET. PLA use lower temps than ABS, and B-PET use higher temps (around 250/260). The sympthom was hotend clogged after some minutes sometimes just seconds with both materials. I can manually extrude for ever if I wby Tinchus - Printing
Hi. I have a reprap prusa I3 and a RepRapDiscount Smart Controller. Everything seems to work ok, but I have this problem: If I use the pause option of teh lcd menu, when I restart the printing, it accelerates like hell !!!! This happens till that layer is completed, and tehn resumes the normal printing speed. Also, dureing the pause, if I try to move the Z axis throught the pcd menu, it doesnt wby Tinchus - Reprappers
Hi All. I would like some help with petg, please correct me if Im wrong: 1.- Pla starts to soften at low temperatures, ABS is more resistant to this, but can it be posible that, despite petg fusion temperature is around 230-250 (way higher than PLA), it starts to soften also at low temperatures? even lower than ABS ????? Would this explain why is ssomehow difficult to use petg with all metal hotby Tinchus - Printing
Yes, the pid was calibrated for 250 but temperature is extremely stable (variable between 265 and 263.5) Max temp is 290 in the formwareby Tinchus - Printing
Hi. Thanks for your feed back. Yes, when PLA prints fails, the hobbed bolt chews through the filament if I dont stopp it. And yes, the steeper all the time keeps moveing smoothly.by Tinchus - Printing
QuoteDownunder35m 1. Teflon does not like all oils, a lot will make the teflon to expand or soften over time. 2. For PLA there should be no transport or jamming issues at all. PLA is very slippery on most materials, including metals. I my years of printing I only found two causes for transport problems with PLA that are not related to bad hardware. The first is filament damage or deformation dueby Tinchus - Printing
Hi. I have a prusa I3. My hotend is cooled with a 40mm fan. It is an all metal. From the very beginning I started printing with ABS. With good results. I learnt to use ABS. I have never had a jam with ABS After a couple of months I decided to try PLA and B-PET (a recicled version of pet). PLA temp is suposed to be something around 180-210 and B-pet is around 240-260. So I can see that my loved ABby Tinchus - Printing
I think that bed levelling works like this: The paper test is used to have some clearence between the noozle and the bed. Other way, in real world, there are no real flat surface, or at least I have not found one (and beleive me, I have searched a lot, at least I bought 10 different glass pieces, and finally ended with an aluminium bed, wich is the more flat thing I found). Glass will bend in somby Tinchus - General
mmmmmm You are indeed over/under extruded, but I think that is in no way related to your circles problems, wich almost sure are related to same backlash problem, wich I have, and my circles look exactly like yours!!!!! (but my extrusion is perfect). Yesterday I dismantled my printer (prusa I3), and I discovered that my X axis was not 90 degrees with the Y axis. I fixed it and today will do a prinby Tinchus - Printing
What it works for me ( I can do the bridge test complete, bridges of more than 10 cms long). I use slic3r: bridge speed 17 mm/s brideg flow rate 87% And I configure the auto cool option to have the fan alwoays off EXCEPT when bridging, in that moment I use the cooling at 100% Hope it helps youby Tinchus - Printing
Are yuo useing Slic3r for the slicing? (repetier has slic3r)? Those blobs I see in the pictures look like a bug in slc3r: the GAP filling. If you are useing slic3r, try setting GAP speed to 0 and test again. By the way: I have the same problem than you with circles, still trying to solve it.by Tinchus - General
Hi all! I dont have this issue but I do have an alu,imiu, bed. I dont use a glass on top of it. Just hair spray. But I have many time adhesion problems. As I can see you are useing the aluminium and kapton tape on top? just capton tape??? ABS stays in the kapton tape without hair spray/glue/etc? I have examined the alumium bed and is really flat.by Tinchus - Printing
Hi. Im having the same issue with my prusa I3. Temperature sometime jumps from 330, down to 220 1 1 second and up to 235/240 in the next second! Wiring is ok, double checked. The only thing it worries me is that is somehow loose inside the hole of the heater block since the hole is bigger than the termistor. So the question would be: what is the best way to solve this loose problem? How can I makby Tinchus - General
Hi. I have an reprap lcd smart controller. It works ok, but if I pause a print from it and then resume printing, the printing starts like 10X accelerated!!!! for 1 or 2 layers and then it resumes normal printing speed. This happens randomly. Any ideas?by Tinchus - General
Your main problem when printing those layers is temperature: you have a very hot metal part at 200+ degrees separated only 0.03 mm away from the previous layer. So you have to make a balance betwee: if you go slower a lot of heat will be transfered to the previous layer. If you go faster... you will loose quality. So far, your results looks really GREAT. Awesome job and dcumentation. Personally,by Tinchus - Printing
The best way to insulate the block? I have seen people useing capton tape? is that enough?by Tinchus - Printing
I have a doubt about cooling the hot end: I have: the noozle, then comes the block and then a tube (called heat break?) and then the cold end (the big body with cooling layers og the j-head)? the cooling need to be starting from the junction between the block and the heat break or in the junction of the heat break and the cold end?by Tinchus - Printing
Hi. I have this issue wich is driving me crazy... I can print useing ABS wiyh no problem. Things go wrong when I chage to PLA (200C) or to B-Pet (240 - 260 C). Im very carefull cleaning al material before changeing type of filament. When I start printing with PLA, after some minutes or sometimes after some seconds the noozle clogs. I was suspecting that may be some ABS was still there... but no,by Tinchus - Printing
Hi all! I have this weird problem. I have a prusa I3, witha j-head hot end. From the beginning I started useing ABS. After some time I tried PLA and a material called B-PET (240-260 degrees) I have the same issue with these 2 materials: the noozle clogs while printing. I did a lot of tests: cleaned the noozle, more temp, less temo, etc. And this is the conclusions I got: I look lile it may be aby Tinchus - Prusa i3 and variants
I really would like to be wrong but... you cant. The ony posible way that cmes to my mind would be to identify the exact G-Code line where your printer stopped and edit your original file so you can start your printing from that exact line... But I dont think that is posible....by Tinchus - General Mendel Topics
If someone has a similar problem... I think I found the cause of this clogging: it look like humidity is responsible. While trying to print PLA, I notice the popcorn noise, That happened with the B-pet filament too. And I saw the filament comeing out of the extruder like "boiling". So I though that the temperature was too high and the filament was actually boiling, and I reduced the temperature.by Tinchus - General Mendel Topics