Show all posts by user
Thanks for the compliment . I just try to give back to the Reprap community as when i started it was a great help to me.
And now the real fun starts for you ...calibrating and printing
Good luck
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Or you use a 5 dollar solid state relay and put all the mosfet woes behind you ( well most of them) and gain access to using 24 volt for your heated bed.
Even in its standard state with Mega & ramps1.4 taking the 10amp current and potential autofuse/ mosfet issues away from the ramps has to be a good thing right?
by
bigfilsing
-
RAMPS Electronics
Ok first things first
M119 is gcode
Gcode is what controls the printer movements etc
Gcode is generated by slicer software ( like CUra for example) Cura takes your model ( an STL file) and together with settings you input like temprature layer height etc etc It generates Gcode to drive the printer.
The user can also type in gcode and send it to the printer in whats called a terminal window &
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Fantastic info
Honestly speaking, however cool, i think we need to de-focus the LCD for a while and get the basic printing configuration working properly.
At the end of the day LCD's & screens & SD cards are just toys . We need quality prints first and foremost
Just my 2 cents
by
bigfilsing
-
RAMPS Electronics
Not sure about sprinter or repetier but in Marlin you can only manually move the stepper axis away from the end stop until it has been homed for the first time since power on.
Which would explain why you can only move 1 way when you power on.
OK next step is to check end stops
Before powering on move you X and Y axis to mid point and your z to at least 50mm above the print bed . Then type a M
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Is that the same I2C LCD board as used with the MultiWii flight controllers. Im interested as a mate of mine has one of those in his parts box that i could borrow!!
by
bigfilsing
-
RAMPS Electronics
Impressive work there Enif
Very tempted to try this as i have a spare Ramps sitting here doing nothing . Guess i better jump on ebay and get a Due ordered
PS You might want to change the pics so we cant read your credit card info
by
bigfilsing
-
RAMPS Electronics
ok
what are you running ? You havent mentioned it
Are you using pronterface to try and control it ??
The simplest solution is to load Marlin firmware then connect with pronterface
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Je maakt het niet makelijk voor jezelf eh
I think you might be trying to run before you can walk
Right so put the thermo couples to one side and consider it an upgrade for later !!!!
Use the standard thermistor that came with the E3D for the hotend . They work perfectly fine !!! Only much later when you are really fine tuning your prints could you possible get any benifit from a thermo cou
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
and dont forget you have to tell the ramps which type of thermistor you are using in your config.h file ...for both the hotend and the bed
>>>
//===========================================================================
//=============================Thermal Settings ============================
//===========================================================================
//
//--NOR
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
The issue is that the board protects itself when it cant read a temp for the hot end. So if its not reading a thermisistor on the hotend the firmware assumes cable break/defect thermisistor/ runaway temp.
IF you want to test the output for the heated bed its the same story.
You cant really use a fixed resistor as a substitute. It may work with a 100K potentionmeter where you could "set" the tempe
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Or you just install thumb screws in which case manual calibration takes 2 min and you can fine tune while the printer lays down the first layer.
Make a macro button for each screw location then quick paper test at each and your done
by
bigfilsing
-
Delta Machines
Just spotted these on the hobby king site and thought id share
could be another option to the traxxis
by
bigfilsing
-
Delta Machines
Thats good news . Good on them for supporting you
by
bigfilsing
-
Delta Machines
Ok
Octoprint doesnt actually control the printer as such. It allows you to control it via a network web interface
Take a look at >>
( nearly all of Toms video are worth a watch )
i have it installed on a Rasberry PI and its great for stand alone printing i,e, without a computer attached. You can also achieve stand alone operation with an LCD panel and memory card.
Marlin & Repetie
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
The relay is a good idea as we all know the standard FET's aren't the best and most efficient.
I would recommend you look for an electronic relay rather than a standard automotive relay
Something like >>
Good luck
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Ok so give me some details of your end effector and ill see what i can come up with .
I presume youve already looked on the STL model web sites right ?
by
bigfilsing
-
Delta Machines
based on what i saw in the vid
Unless youre using a dual extruder take out the E1 stepper driver and keep it as a spare. Other wise its just using power ( not much ) for nothing. Better to take it off and keep it for later use.
try and keep the auto fuses ( the big yellow things next to the power connector) tidy. They are quite easy to break
Don't forget to loop power though to the other power
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah that tool should work just dont go too deep and make the tube wall thickness to small ( wand dikkte te dun)
A good way to cut the PTFE pipe without crushing or deforming it is to put some filamant in it and cut around it if you see what i mean. then pull the filament out
No you cant call it a forerunner that doesnt translate from Dutch too well . There;s a few but probably a "lead in" wou
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
There's only 1 type of E3D 1.75 .....Universal
IF you insert the black part it will retain a PTFE tube for a remote extruder bowden set up
IF you remove it the hotend is suitable for direct drive
I wouldn't cut off the black part as the remaining bits may cause problems later . You can remove it with a bit of care & force. Easy to replace if you damage it.
Once removed insert the PTFE tub
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
DO you have access to a working 3D printer?
I have a couple of adapters that i could easily change to suit ....but youd need to be able to print them
by
bigfilsing
-
Delta Machines
The problem you;ll have is mounting the dual extruder shown in the pic on an i3 . They appear to be mounted on a single alu bracket that puts them side by side. Fitting that to an i3 could be a challenge.
The trick is ( with all printers) to keep the mass/weight (stepper motor(s) ) as close as possible to the smooth rods/ linear bearings that "carry" the load. That can be tricky on a i3 where th
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Not impossible that one of the Z steppers is "better" than the other. Id still go hunting for other mechanical issues thou . Especially as you intend to work on the z threaded rod. While you're at it swap the steppers over and see if the bark moves with it !
Assuming the current is set correctly it sounds to me like the barking stepper is trying to move something that doesn't want to be moved (
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the extensive reply.
I appreciate that you, like any engineering company, have to struggle to meet customer demands and expectations. Developing and bringing a product to market is , as anyone who has ever done it will agree. a challenging arduous task.
I think most of my negative attitude is driven from frustration. After running a V5 for over a year with out any problems what so
by
bigfilsing
-
Delta Machines
Quotegregfuji
Problems with my 'full graphic smart controller'. I've tried everything, I think I'm getting close but still not working.
This is my compile error: "" Configuration.h:6:20: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory
#include "U8glib.h" "" I have put this file everywhere I can think of but it still can't find it. HELP
(also I have tried it with out the quotation)
SO go back
by
bigfilsing
-
Delta Machines
Could be a number of things
mechanical problem in the motor ( unlikely)
driver set wrong ( stepper is stalling)
too much pressure on the filament ( stalling)
extruder blocked
Remove motor and see if it runs OK in its own right. Then install in the extruder and test without filament . Then add filament and test and so on till you isolate what the issue is.
by
bigfilsing
-
Delta Machines
Very dependent on what motors you have. keep in mind you are driving 2 steppers from the same driver so certainly higher than the X & Y axis.
Some people say that both wire harnesses to the stepper should be the same/ similar lengths , despite the physical location of the steppers. Its critical that your wiring&connectors are in good shape.
I tend to use the practical approach to setting
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
dont worry about the centerpoint for the moment. Its more down to your slicer software where the print takes place.
with the power off.... manually move the bed to the center of its travel in Y . Move the print head to the center in X and raise it 10mm off the bed
If youre not using max endstops ( most people dont i think ) look for " //#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS" in config.h and remove the
by
bigfilsing
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Not sure what i think of this new arrival
The cynic in me says they are finally admitting to all the V6 jamming problems reported in their forums and going with a PTFE lined solution and selling the "combat copies" as a smoke screen.
But heh as long as it works
I'm just peeved i have just received 43 quids worth of V6 when this would have been just as good for my needs
IF your a Brit dont
by
bigfilsing
-
Delta Machines
The heat transition/conduction up the hot-end is stopped by the finned barrel with a fan blowing on it. Taping the heatbreak with teflon/PTFE is insulating it and preventing the fan from being effective IMO
Of course we are only talking about a minimal amount of conducted heat that " manages" to get past the thin turned section but still. I was under the impression that was the whole point of an
by
bigfilsing
-
Delta Machines