Probably a "bricked" FTDI chip. Probably easiest to replace the board with an Arduino/RAMPS setup Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
So if you set Marlin like this for your endstops: const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; compile upload etc, then remove all end stop wiring from your RAMPS and give it an M119 what do you get? If it's "open" then the RAMPS/Arduino are OK If you short out S and - on each X,Y,Z MIN and MAX with a jumper one at a tby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
My advice for what it's worth.... Even with a kit you still need to know what Marlin does - not every line, mainly the ones that make the motors move and stop, how fast they move and how far they move. Do the setup in steps and don't skip any. You also (IMHO) need a multi-meter to check voltages and switch pins. This is the order I do it in.... Get the motors moving in the right direction firsby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I was thinking more along the lines of - how good are these Folger Tech kits as the forum is full of people having trouble with them. :-)by SteveRoy - Reprappers
This sub forum should be re-named "Folger Tech Issues" :-)by SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist QuoteSteveRoy Why not just use them both as stand-alone? I have slic3r and Cura installed to slice models and use Pronterface to control the printer (could use Repetier rather than Pronterface) Steve Better yet, why not just use the printer stand-alone? If your printer has an SD card reader, host software/computer is completely unnecessary and adds to the unreliabilityby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Why not just use them both as stand-alone? I have slic3r and Cura installed to slice models and use Pronterface to control the printer (could use Repetier rather than Pronterface) Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
I have details in an Instructable I did on building a Prusa i3 Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
If your Y end stop is at the back of the frame it is a MIN end stop. #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 When you do a Y + in pronterface it should move the bed toward the front. X end stop on the left is a MIN end stop. When you do a X + in pronterface the carriage should move right. When you home the printer the bed should move toward the back and the X carriage to the left Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I have only ever used 2 pins on my endstop switches. Set to NO and connected to S and - on the RAMPS board.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
There are many variables when it comes to end stops. which way does the X carriage move when you give it a +, left or right? which side is the x end stop on? which way does the bed move when you give it a Y +, toward you or away? is the y end stop at the front or back of the printer? The Z end stop should be at the bottom and be a min end stop A Z + should move the carriage up Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
My local Hackspace has one - we retired it and scratch built a Prusa i3 From what I know about it - it was a pain to "tram" the bed.by SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
I wonder too. Kind of like when the motorcycle/dirt bike market was flooded with the cheap China knock-offs. Most of those are probably sitting broken in someones garage. Probably happen with the 3D printers - get used for a couple of months, they break, no parts or support, they end up sitting in a closet.by SteveRoy - General
What is the resistance of the heatbed? Should be around 1.3 Ohms If you want a high quality RAMPS these are the guys to talk to: Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
The heatbed MOSFET overheating is a common problem with the China made RAMPS. Replace it with a IRLB8743 or IRLB8743PBF. The old one can be hard to remove though. Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
QuoteViper97 No lying here it was the first print ever. I spent some time calibrating the thing, reworking and rethinking everything. Finally pulled the trigger to print the cube. I was expecting a mess frankly and was floored when it was pretty good! That's a great first print - good jobby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
What parts are missing? What parts did you get? The website say it's baed on the i3 rework which is all printed parts vs acrylic for the Z top/bottom and Y corners Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you checked your steps per mm for the extruder? I also file a flat spot on my extruder motor shaft to help the grub-screw have less chance of slipping.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Never tried it but there is Craftware:by SteveRoy - Reprappers
No, you can't download the firmware from the Arduino to get your configuration.h My advice... Install the Arduino IDE if you haven't already, get Marlin from github. Use Prusa's calculator to get values for your X, Y & Z steps. I have a fairly detailed Instructable on setting up end-stops, Marlin values etc to get printing Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
The "vanilla" Prusa i3 files are here: Under the distribution folder you'll find the x-carriage stl file. It has hex holes, though on our first i3 vanilla build we put the nuts in the adapter and m3 bolts from the bearing side of the carriage. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I would also suggest double checking the motor wire pairs with a multi-meterby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
The trend I have noticed on this forum is that the DIYer has gone from "how do I build myself a great reprap from scratch" to "what is the best $300 kit to buy". After they buy this kit they have trouble building it, calibrating it and getting good prints. They struggle with the inferior extruder designs, hot ends which jam on every second print, garbage electronics etc. So if a person who likby SteveRoy - General
I assume you are in the UK? Why not look at the p3Steel or the i3 from Prusa Research? But to answer your question, any of the 3 will give you a cheap Chinese printer.by SteveRoy - General
Honestly? - print a Wades style geared extruder, buy a genuine J-Head or E3D and toss the MK8 into the garbage.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecristian One year ago I chose to buy one of the chapest printer kits out there as my first printer. I spent really a lot of time trying to make the printer work properly, solving, dodging or acknowledging countless problems. After one year, I can say that I did the right choice, because now I have the knowledge that allows me to choose more wisely the design of my next printer to hopefullyby SteveRoy - General
Not sure where it belongs. Steveby SteveRoy - General
The light part was basically a block with a relief on one corner, so it could be anywhere. The dark I am doing now is smaller with more form. I'll post a picture of the dark piece when it's done. Steveby SteveRoy - General
Great Instructable and great printer! (got my vote too) I particularly like Step 1 and your thoughts on building quality. Why someone would buy the cheapest printer kit they can find, then complain of poor support and put up with continual problems is beyond me. I do think though that you can build a plywood frame Prusa i3 with quality components and have a good reliable printer. The first i3by SteveRoy - General
I've printed and sent off a light colour part and am printing a dark part right now. Very cool project. Steveby SteveRoy - General