Are you sure the #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE for Z axis is set at 2 rather than 5? Use a voltmeter on 2v DC scale between ground and the driver pot. Should be around .7v Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Change the 5 to a 2 , upload and try itby SteveRoy - Reprappers
jonbroardfoot, what does this line in your Marlin configuration.h look like? #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25} // (mm/sec) Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
While I didn't check the nut/bolt numbers etc my thoughts... Looks good - I like the fact you want a genuine e3d hot-end, GT2 belts are good, Not sure about the controller board? I've always used RAMPs. I've found an alloy heatbed like this one is better than the China PCB type as it doesn't flex/warp I've always used an LED type power suppply vs a PC power supply, but it will work fine. Mby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I haven't, but there is a post here where elwood127 has:by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
You can test motor pairs with a multi-meterby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
You been listening to The Beatles "Revolution 9" backwards?by SteveRoy - Reprappers
What make of hot-end? Do you have a fan running on the heat-break of the hot-end all the time?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Great advice from Dust You will also need to change the feedrate for your Z-axis via the firmware. In the configuration.h file find the line starting with: #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE the 3rd number in the brackets is the Z axis, should be 2 rather than 5 The default value of 5 usually causes the Z motors to buzz rather than move Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
The most popular firmware for this style of printer is Marlin. However you need to change some the configuration.h file parameters depending on the printers pullet type, z-axis threaded rod type, extruder type, LCD type etc. To tune and calibrate the printer it's a good idea to know these parameters rather than using a setup from someone else. Post the configuration.h file from the firmware youby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Have you checked the motor wiring pairs? Have you tried adjusting the stepper pots? Are there 3 jumpers under each stepper?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
From the cheap kits I have seen - acrylic frames and bed would be the first to change, so you are OK there. Also the MK8 extruder, so with a Wades style you are OK there. Next would be the cheap knock-off hot-end, give it at try and see. Having an easy to adjust z-axis endstop is a good upgrade. You should just run through a calibration of the printer and start printingby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I did an instructable on building an i3 from scratch. Start at around step 9. Also the M119 command via Pronterface or Repieter will help you with end-stop issues and show what is triggered and not Hope this helpsby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Having built both, I would suggest the re-work. All 10mm threaded rods Better designs for the setup of end-stops. I use this for the z-axis end-stop: this for the x-axis end-stop: this for y-axis end-stop & motor:by SteveRoy - Reprappers
So if the printer is sitting idle and you tell pronterface/repitier to move the z-axis up 50mm how far does it move up?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I've seen what comes with the Folger Tech acrylic i3 kit when I helped a local Hackspace member. It's not only the hot end but also the extruder design. The person I helped was having all sorts of trouble getting decent prints. IMHO they are just junk. I printed a Wades style extruder and he bought a genuine Hexagon hot end - night and day difference. While I have bought 3D printer stuff from eby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Power the board off and remove the stepper off the board. There are 3 jumpers under it. All 3 should be jumpered.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Depending on the controller board there will be jumpers to put under the stepper driver or close by them. This tell the controller that 1 step is 1/16th of a turn of the motor. In the firmware there is a value to give the Z-axis (and the others) that will move it up: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT Use this calculator to check values: The Z-axis is this one:by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I use nylocks for the bed and these to hold them: To limit current to the motor you adjust the pot on the stepper driver Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm with Dust on this - a closeup of the terminal markings on the power supply would help. I haven't seen one with a terminal layout like that.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
5mm on your Z threaded rods won't make any difference. I doubt you could get the z-axis high enough that the carriage assembly would fall off.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
It may be noise on the USB? Maybe try change the USB cable or print from SDby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you printing from an SD card or via a PC?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
The z-axis motor humm and stuttering can be caused by too high feedrate look for this line in your Marlin configuration.h #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25} // (mm/sec) I have found the Z value needs to be 2 rather than the default 5by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Try use Pronterface to move the axis they have install-able binaries here: Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Can you flip the orentation of the z-axis plus on the printer controller board? How about a picture of where they connect. You could also change this line in Marlin then compile and upload: #define INVERT_Z_DIR true Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I use M3 hex head bolts and nylock nutsby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
From a scratch built Prusa i3 rework. Hexagon hot-end .4mm nozzle, wades extruder. 200 micron layer height. PLA at 190. Heated bedby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I have to say that buyers of FT kits are lucky there is such a great reprap community to help them because at under US $280 for a kit there cannot be any $$$ left for tech support.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants