Quotejessicabrenner ...don't care about the potential speed increase - just the quality of the print and the amount of troubleshooting/adjusting needed post-setup. . . I've only known a bowden set up myself. It works ok for me but for what you are after I would guess that a direct extruder would be (has to be) better. If you want print quality you need to print on the slow side and the problemby alan richard - General
Has it worked before? What power is PSU? Check resistance of hotend. 1% is enough chance. Try connecting it straight to the PSU. See if that trips it. Try switching RAMPS with no load or a low load like a bulb. If it still trips it could be faulty board. -aby alan richard - RAMPS Electronics
Measure your travel distance over a longer length before changing travel Steps/mm in config. 1mm over 20mm could be over extrusion -aby alan richard - General
Just thinking aloud really. I'm not sure. What is the arrangement of your bed? How are the guides and drive set up? Can you remove the 'drive nut' (if that's what you have) and move the bed by hand? Is there tight spots around the z=0 mark? Maybe a tweak of the motor current could save you some rebuilding. The Z motor doesn't see much action so you can afford to have the current on the higherby alan richard - Printing
Not sure. Marlin only follows Gcode orders. It doesn't know that your print is finished. It's the slicer Gcode that tells the heaters to switch off after a print. Maybe marlin could have a timer added to shut off power after a period of inactivity. I don't think I'd want that myself. Go to 'Custom G code' in the Printer settings tab in Slic3r. There is the line there M104 S0 turn off tempeby alan richard - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Those bottom layers are visibly thinner than the others. Hence the same quantity of extruded goo is being pushed outwards. Not a slicing thing? Same results with all prints? Mechanical thing then. Try adding some weight to your z stage. Give it some pre load maybe. Gravity should be your friend and keep the nut sitting on the screw threads. (Assuming your Z raises and lowers) Backlash shouby alan richard - Printing
What goes through the holes? I'm not so familiar with the design. You could ask them to just etch a centre mark for the holes (usually possible) and drill them yourself. So long as things get aligned properly and screwed together tight, that extra clearance in the hole shouldn't hurt. -aby alan richard - Reprappers
Just a shot in the dark . . . Nice machine. 'Tis a beast. -aby alan richard - CoreXY Machines
Have you done what I did? that is - change the jumpers, changed the config.h but . . . Forgot to update eeprom settings from the firmware ( M502, M500) ? -aby alan richard - Reprappers
The photograph in the link shows a voltage measurement on the pololu. You adjust this voltage with the potentiometer shown. The voltage depends on your stepper motor current. It should be low. It is better to calculate but start around 0.3v and see. Don't forget, below the pololu there should be jumpers fitted to the circuit board. All the information should be in the reprap wiki. -aby alan richard - General
Thank you gents. Big thanks and much kudos to all who have gone before me, especially you Bruce, with your handsome machine. -aby alan richard - Look what I made!
Where is your ammeter? In series with the motor? Here is the normal method with volt meter. -a Edit: I see your picture now. Measuring current at PSU will not give accurate reading.by alan richard - General
That is neat! And properly useful. Well done. I'll be taking one of those with the ground spike camping this season. I've lost too much beer in my lifetime. Like 'jah' colour scheme of the bottle opener. Thanks for sharing. -aby alan richard - Look what I made!
I'm not really wizz enough to do this, I'm sure some of you are. A useful thread to have would be as per title to expand on the triffid hunter page. Maybe included as part of the 'print issue identifier' wiki I don't mean the obvious mechanical calibrations like steps per mm. I'm thinking retraction, acceleration, jerk, cooling. What else? I appreciate a lot of settings impact on one another,by alan richard - Printing
Its a very thorough list you created. I kept going back to it with ideas but you'd already covered them. Good additions Frank. Some items are hardware and some are personal decisions - ie Extruder machanism is hardware choice, learning cad or creating a BOM is personal. Having access to machining services or a 3D printer is personal. It will influence the design a printer. Some issues cross rby alan richard - Developers
I think taking the balls out will make them wobble too much. Take them apart and find a flattened ball - It would be worth just trying to source quality bearing balls. Sure they'd work out cheaper and its the balls that are doing the work. I'd be dubious of printed ones but I can't say for sure. This would be a useful thread to keep updated with results. I've had some terrible quality bearingby alan richard - Reprappers
'Endstops only for homing' in configuration.adv.h?? -aby alan richard - CoreXY Machines
I had good results using V slot. Easy to assemble and set up. Smooth running with no wobble. Can be easily tensioned between feather light operation and rock solid stability. I'd think most extrusion will be (reasonably) straight. Especially over the distance of 200mm you mention. I've seen some designs that use a slider or wheels in regular (square slot) profile but my reservation is that putby alan richard - General
Thanks for the info. Interesting. I'm sure they'll fix it sooner or later. Marlin seems to change every day. Did you raise it as an issue on Marlins Github page? -aby alan richard - CoreXY Machines
What and where is quickhome? I haven't seen that before. -aby alan richard - CoreXY Machines
A funny shaped model shouldn't, in itself, block your extruder. I wonder if it is putting down lots of little blobs and doing a lot of retractions and pulling warm swollen goo into the cold end. Can you slice it with no retraction set? -aby alan richard - Reprappers
It is hard to say valid or not. The SKF website shows it in the double stack arrangement, as you have it. If the bearing is pulled up during a Z reverse that would suggest the sliding bushes are binding perhaps. The screw is pulling on the nuts on the Z-bed and instead of the bed going down, the bearing is coming up. Really gravity should hold everything down if it smooth enough to fall. Areby alan richard - CoreXY Machines
Thanks for spoiling my sleep. Also for the thorough answers. I was more concerned with shorts to earth/ chassis. Of course, with printer heaters being on the move all the time, the cable is especially vulnerable to mechanical damage and shorts if not properly managed. A warning for everyone there. I would think, then, this must be an issue faced by a number of machinery manufacturers, as electrby alan richard - Reprappers
Thanks for a very clear answer. Good for reference. -aby alan richard - Reprappers
Well that's all very interesting but it still doesn't answer the question as to why anyone should connect their reprap power DC negative to ground. I'm not saying you shouldn't. I'm still only asking why. Actually. Back to safety. There is a significant issue with some printers. . . My printer has a metal frame with the power supply inside it and 230v going into it. Quite correctly, the metalby alan richard - Reprappers
Ok-dokey. I was trying for a definitive answer as there seems a lot of confusion as to what an 'Earth' does. People seem to think its some magic current path which 'soaks electricity and noise into the ground'. Sorry I confused my argument by talking about switched negatives and permanent positive feeds but I can see no 'safety' benefit in connecting DC negative to ground. Fair point about 'reby alan richard - Reprappers
It wouldn't affect safety of mains shorts. Connecting any metalwork to earth makes sense for that. The danger of 12v shock is negligible. To connect the psu -ve to earth would increase your chance of contact with it. Heaters are permanent +ve with the negative switched (I'm sure. Could be wrong), so the chance of dangerous (fire starting) short circuit is greater with any metalwork like psu enclby alan richard - Reprappers
Are you saying connect supply earth to DC Negative there, IMBoring? What's the thinking on that, may I ask? I'm not disputing it, just asking. -aby alan richard - Reprappers
What will a multimeter tell him? That AC supply has neither +ve or -ve -aby alan richard - General