Thank you both for your reply, I don't think my build is perfect, that's the reason I'm looking into this auto calibration, I mean, I did my best trying to make everything square and even, but something like the tower angle can't be easily adjust, therefore, hoping auto calibration could correct my imperfect build. Anyway thanks, I'll try the settings LVD had suggested and go from there.by scanboy - Delta Machines
Hi, I just recently updated my marlin to 1.1.3, my first version with Delta Auto Calibration. I was previously using auto bed leveling feature and was quite happy. With the new version, I started experimenting with auto calibration. So my question is, if I use Auto calibration, do I still need auto bed leveling (assuming a flat enough bed)? I understand that they are 2 totally different featureby scanboy - Delta Machines
That's just the default in slic3r, is that the issue? it only goes up 5mm so the hotend is a bit off the bed while it's heating.by scanboy - Delta Machines
Hi, I'm in the process of building a delta machine with ramps 1.4 running marlin (1.1.0-RC7), it's mostly done and I'm configuring marlin right now. Everything seems to work fine except when I try printing, the auto bed leveling leaves the extruder at Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT (50mm) and it starts printing in the air. My issue is that I do not know what gcode to add to the beginning so that the extrby scanboy - Delta Machines
Hi all, I've been struggling with this autotune issue that I have with my delta printer. Kinda finished with the build and wanted to setup the PID values for the hotend, but when I send M303 E0 S200 C8, it timeout right away: PID Autotune start PID Autotune failed! timeout When I manually set hotend to whatever temperature, it will heat up fine, just won't run the PID autotune. How should I trby scanboy - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, I'm going crazy with my heat bed issue hoping someone here could help. I have 1.3a rev. and recently added a heat bed to it. With updated firmware (added heat bed and thermistor settings in marlin), I tried to heat up the bed, but the hot end also get heated up even though I only set temp for the bed and before the bed reaches target temp, hot end went over the max temp and the whole thing sby scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks for the reply. I've tried extruding less plastic, but doesn't seem to be the porblem. I started to see gaps after changing to extrude less plastic. The first layer looks good with my original settings, just that the z is not moving correctly when printing, I'm guessing because I calibrate it using pronterface, but when printing, sprinter has it's own speed, and maybe my motor can't handleby scanboy - Printing
I'm having this print issue with z travel or layer height. It prints fine for the first couple of layers, but as it go up in layer, the nozzle starts to get closer to the printed object and after the z axis going up 5mm, the nozzle starts to touch on the object and melting it. At first, I thought my z travel is not accurate, but after checking the calibration, the z travel is within 0.02 mm. I doby scanboy - Printing
I have it set to 0.32V @ the driver, I don't know what the current is, I can measure it tonight. My stepper only takes 0.6a max, but I've tried other lower voltage also, same issue. The thing is, even at 0.22V (my initial driver setting) it would work if steps/per unit is lower than 4100. I don't know what's wrong, maybe my stepper is not up to par.by scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
ok, it works if I set the acceleration to 0, anything > 0 will give me the same issue, but setting it to 0 is extremely slow, takes forever to go 10mm. Can't I make it go further without increase in speed? I mean I had no issues when acceleration is 50 and unit value = 3200/1.25, I just need it to go further without accelerating. Can it be done? Help.by scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
When I look in the firmware, there's max_acceleration and a max_travel_acceleration, which one should I lower? or do I need to lower both? Thanks.by scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi, I have a strange issue with my z stepper (not moving under certain condition). I'm currently calibrating my axis using pronterface with sprinter firmware. I calibrated x and y and changed their axis_step_per_unit values without any issues, but when I do the same for z, it just doesn't work. The original axis_step_per_unit value for z is like 3200/1.25, with this value, z moves fine in both dby scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
I see, I guess it's something I'll have to try out. Thanks for the insight.by scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
I have all electronics working and as I was putting the endstop yesterday, I don't know how close I should make the hotend come to the table before stopping it with the endstop. What is the distance you guys have between the tip of the hotend to the table when your z-axis is stopped by the endstop? I just don't know how close it should go before stopping it. Any suggestion?by scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
thanks so much, just downloaded slicer.by scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks for all your replies, helps a lot.by scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks a lot, but I still have one more question. I'm very close to doing my first print, while I was testing the extruder motor, I was wondering how does sprinter know how fast to extrude if I use 3mm filament vs. 1.75mm ones. I thought there would be a define in the configuration.h, but could not find anything related to the filament thickness, so how do I tell it what's the correct extrudsionby scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks, but how do I check whether my sanguinololu can handle 3.5A or not? or should I just use one? would it be enough to get hot end to 200+ degree? I'm only using an ATX as power supply. Thanks again.by scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Set VREF to 0.32V on a genuine Pololu or 1.28V on > a Stepstick. That gives a current of 0.8A. If the > motor gets too hot reduce it. > > You can measure VREF on the test point or on the > wiper of the potentiometer. > > > 5FdyLquI/AAAAAAAAF2U/Qm9xijmsHEI/s576/pololu.jpg Thanks. I've made it wby scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
I bought two 6.8 ohm 3w resistors, how should I connect it, in parallel or in series? Thanksby scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
bumpby scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
I also followed the wiki and changed stk500 to arduino, but I didn't get the error, it worked after the change.by scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
Hello, I've just finished soldering the electronics, now I need to setup the current limit pot on the A4988, I'm wondering can I plug the A4988 onto the sanguinololu 1.3a and set it up that way? If so, where can I measure the current and do I need to plug in both ATX power and usb? I went to the wiki and seems like I need to make some connections on a breadboard (which I don't have) or connectby scanboy - Sanguino(lolu)
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Gen7 can be even cheaper if you do more more > yourself. Sorry for the shameless plug. > haha no problem at all, but I can't seem to find pricing info on Gen7, if you could, give me list of products you have available + pricing. I want to try and source all the electronics parts from 1 source, so if you have otheby scanboy - Controllers
royco Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The Sanguino was created because the Uno and > similar are running short on pins as the 3D > printers and firmware got more features. > > Go with the Sanguinololu if you want cheaper. > > Roy Thanks, I looked at Sanguinololu, nice package, might just go with that. One question though, will I still needby scanboy - Controllers
I'm trying to decide on electronics and I'm looking for the cheapest options. I've come across this where it tells you how to wire the arduino, it looks to me that an arduino Uno has all the pins that's needed, but I've search the forum not a single post about using Uno with a reprap, so here are my questions: 1. Can Uno be use along with 3 stepper controller and a DC motor controller to make repby scanboy - Controllers