Are you sure the connectors are the right way 'round?by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Stick a ball bearing down the hole. Stops the compression and keeps the flexibility.by 3dkarma - Mechanics
It's a lookup table, so the lookup value is 987 and the temp is 25. The lookup value is calculated from the resistance table datasheet for a given thermistor. The calculated vales are something Sprinter can compare against the reading it takes from the analogue pin the thermistor is plugged in to. If you're interested in more detail, there's a spreadsheet on thingiverse that can generate a looby 3dkarma - Reprappers
0 degrees is at the bottom of the table. Temp is the second value, not the first.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Quotecdru For instance, the commonly used Epcos B57540G0502F000 thermistor should be 5k ohm at 25 deg. C. Also are you sure you have the correct thermistor selected in your configuration? The thermistor provided with the E3D v6 is an ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (option 5 in Marlin's Configuration.h, which @malemodel has correctly configured). It should read 100 kOhms at 25 C. They're both in the famiby 3dkarma - General
There's a thread here that discusses why there would be a discrepancy between a thermocouple and thermistor reading. In short, the thermistor is embedded within the block so will give a higher reading than a thermocouple touched to the outside. I understand that Hatchbox is pretty good filament, but have you tried a different roll to see if you've got a bad batch? The only other thing I can tby 3dkarma - General
Sounds like your homing feed rate / max feed rate for the Z axis is too high. Slow it down a bit and it should move OK.by 3dkarma - RAMPS Electronics
I'm not sure why you have it set up that way. You typically have a min end stop at the top when the bed moves vertically. When the X axis moves vertically, the 0 position is down the bottom at the bed, where you put the min end stop. Home = min = 0.by 3dkarma - RAMPS Electronics
From what you're describing, is your end stop at the top? If so, have you enabled a max end stop for the Z axis in Configuration.h?by 3dkarma - RAMPS Electronics
It's a bit far away, but I'm happy to be on the end of a Skype call if there's someone there who's handy with a spanner.by 3dkarma - General
Try this: download the 20mm thin wall calibration object from and slice it. Load the sliced object into and see if it looks OK and also try printing it. That will at least isolate slicing as the potential cause of the problem.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Steps per mm look OK; did you install all the jumpers on your board for micro-stepping? Board size and center point are set in Slic3r - check under the printer settings tab.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
One possibility is z-banding, which can be pretty bad if you have bent Z axis threaded rods combined with a fixed attachment at the top of the rod. If the tops of your rods aren't free, but are attached somehow, any bend in your Z axis threaded rods will push on the smooth rods and cause the banding you're getting. I'd also run through calibration for the printer to make sure there aren't anyby 3dkarma - Reprappers
Sounds like steps per mm is out on your axes. Have you checked the values in your firmware against what you get from the reprap calculator?by 3dkarma - Reprappers
If you have a heated bed, you need to supply power to both the 5A and 11A connections. The 11A connection supplies power for the bed; the 5A connection supplies power for the rest of the electronics. You're fine having USB and RAMPS power connected at the same. The USB cable will only supply power to the Arduino board, but isn't necessary for operation as the RAMPS board will also supply powerby 3dkarma - Reprappers
Where are you based? UK, obviously, but where in the UK? Have the upgrades been installed, or are you looking to have them installed? If you want to get them installed, do you have them to hand?by 3dkarma - General
Smaller nozzle = slower printing. If you print too fast you'll end up under-extruding, which sounds like the cause of a lot of the issues you've described. The printer has to work harder to push molten filament through the smaller nozzle and it works better at slower speeds.by 3dkarma - Printing
The infra-red thermometer will be pretty much useless at reading the temperature of your hot end. Try heating your bed to 60 degrees and see if the thermometer gives you what you expect. Chances are you'll get a lower temp. If any plastic is coming out at all, then it's being melted. Your extruder will chew through the plastic rather than push it out, if it's not hot enough. Try send a commaby 3dkarma - General
Can you describe what's happening when you try to move the Z axis? The steps per mm look OK, without knowing the specifics of your machine, but you could try dropping the max feedrate from 5 to 3. It's difficult to diagnose without a better description of the problem, though.by 3dkarma - RAMPS Electronics
Take a look at the reprap calculator and make sure your steps per mm for each axis are correct.by 3dkarma - Printing
The instructions are a little dependent on a couple of things: What electronics board does your printer have? Has the printer's board already got firmware loaded? If so, do you know what the firmware is?by 3dkarma - Printing
If you increase you bed size by 40mm in the X axis, it should centre OK.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Take a look at Repetier firmware, over at . It has a lot of good documentation and will lead you through configuration and installation of firmware for your printer.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
This may seem a bit obvious, but have you checked the thermistors with a multimeter to make sure they are 100K and not 10K?by 3dkarma - General
You can easily reverse the direction of the motors by simply turning the plugs around - so if the black wire is rightmost, plug it in leftmost. Make sure you turn off the printer first, as unplugging motors with the power on can fry your stepper drivers.by 3dkarma - General
Extrusion depends on e-steps per mm and filament diameter. Have you measured your filament diameter? Regardless, e-steps per mm and filament diameter will give you a reasonable approximation of correct extrusion, which you then fine-tune during calibration using the extrusion multiplier (on Slic3r).by 3dkarma - Printing
RAMPS is pretty cost-effective and widely available (beware cheap chinese clones). There's a how-to linked to on the solidoodle wiki:by 3dkarma - Controllers
If frame rigidity is worrying you, try a test print at a slower speed to see if the problem goes away.by 3dkarma - Printing
At the end of each layer, your extruder should retract a couple of mm to prevent oozing and blobbing. At the start of a new layer, it will reverse the retraction. If you've got a blob on the inside of the cylinder and a divot on the outside, it is possible that you've either not got retraction turned on, or that you need to increase retraction slightly and add a little bit of extra length on reby 3dkarma - Reprappers
Then, given the orientation of the pieces, you might be over-extruding. Try lowering the extrusion multiplier in 2% increments at a time. The thin walls on the top pieces would be especially vulnerable to slight over-extrusion, as would the overhangs in the larger piece.by 3dkarma - Printing