Hi, Nick! Where are you located? I have a lot of projects on my table allready and I'm constantly searching for people with some sort of machine park. I prefer DIY enthusiasts because it's better for me to give some money on a person that will spend them on a cool project or something. My only question is can you mill aluminium? Can you make tolerances with your mill CNC (if it's homemade)? I wilby BoByS - Hello. I need a something designed. For money.
I'm really happy for the progress. I need to mention, thought, that it's a bad idea to edit the G-code file (this was my concern when I share mine). Every machine has it's own options that are build in, for example with the printers - Autobed leveling procedure, Z-offset (if it's adjusted in the Slicer, of course), etc so every machine has its own G-codes. Sorry for the collision with your heatbeby BoByS - Printing
Sure, here it is! Best regards, Bobbyby BoByS - Printing
Sure, I'm sharing my options. My speed settings: My advanced print settings: The test was with Black PLA - 235 deg for the nozzle (230 for the rest) and 65 deg for the bed (55 for the rest). Keep in mind that the temperatures may vary based on the filament you're using... My retracts are 3mm at 100mm/min. I have a PWM powered 50x50x10mm PC fan with good parameters (really high CFM value) blowby BoByS - Printing
Hi there! How you hooked the stepper motors of the Z axis to the board? Are they in parallel or in series? Are they on a same connector or they are connected to a separate headers (a.k.a. 2 connectors)? Best regards! Bobbyby BoByS - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotexile6When i did just a normal G28 it would freeze and say probe out of bed. If you don't home your Z axis you'll get the "Probe out of bed" issue. I need to play with my printer to give you a proper answer but this was my fight with this problem. Best regards, Bobbyby BoByS - Printing
Sorry for the double post. I finally had some time to play with the cube. The pictures aren't good - actually the walls are pretty straight and smooth (except for the rib (Second picture - the far right corner) where the starting point is - if I have some time this weekend I will be able to adjust the extrusions and retracts). Notice that this was my first print with LH 0.1mm - but there is no liby BoByS - Printing
Hello there! I'm doing this for a living - 6DOF articulated robots. Also, my PhD Thesis is about SCARA type robots. What do you want to know? Notice that the theory about Robots is actually pretty big stuff - there are many books with mechanics, electronics and software. Best regards, Bobbyby BoByS - Robots!
I'm impressed! I love Astronomy! Do you consider sharing your work? Best regards, Bobbyby BoByS - Look what I made!
Not bad! A 3D printed PCB CNC drill is definitely on my to-do list. Best regards, Bobbyby BoByS - Look what I made!
I'm almost sure that you need to put G90 before the servos because they need to be set to absolute positioning for the M280 command. Also, where did you get the STL-s? Can you share a link? Best regards, Bobbyby BoByS - Robots!
I'm not actually a software guy but I had some projects thru the years when I was building Line tracers and mini-sumo robots. I actually saw a syntax error (actually the code looks good to me). void modech(){ if (Robot.keyoardRead() == BUTTON_UP) State = 0; if (Robot.keyoardRead() == BUTTON_DOWN) State = 1; Serial.println (State); } should be: void modech(){ if (Robot.keyboardReby BoByS - Robots!
QuotenebbianI really don't think that this is true. 140% is 0.14mm when you're using a 0.1mm layer height. Interesting... I was actually talking about 140% of 0.4mm which equals 0.56mm. With 140% of 0.1mm = 0.14mm. In Slicer there is a pop-up-balloon that is talking about "If you put 0 here it will calculate automatically based on the Layer height" or something like that. But as what as I seeby BoByS - Printing
Quotenebbian Bobys, thanks for your input. Did you know that the percentages are based on the layer height? So if you choose 150%, you might think that this is a lot, but with a 0.1mm layer height this means an extrusion width of 0.15mm. With a nozzle of 0.4mm this extrusion width seems crazy to me. I've had a massive weekend with my wife's 40th, lots of people staying here so haven't been abby BoByS - Printing
Thanks for your suggestion, nebbian! Yes, my thermistors are pretty crappy but I have measured them with IR thermometer tool. When my printing bed is on 55 deg, the tool shows 51 deg. When my printing bed is on 105 deg, the tool shows 96 deg. Everything is in the limits, because my thermistor's error is 8-10%. I'll do my best to measure the hotend temp as well. It's hard to do it with a big toolby BoByS - Printing
In Slicer > on Print settings tab > Advanced > try to play with the extrusion width value. I'll explain the things that I understand from there. My prints are great and I think that now I know how to fight with the print issues. Default extrusion width: 0.4mm (great starting point is the nozzle diameter. I have 0.4mm nozzle so I put 0.4mm here) First layer: 120% (when you start a test cuby BoByS - Printing
Thank you again for your reply! You're really helping me a lot! Yesterday I was fighting with the ABS filament again (now with a filament from different manufacturer and it's ABS Print Plus). I've tried the extruder without the hotend. No problem of pushing it though. I adjusted the spring tension and now the extruder is pushing the filament almost without deformation (at least my calipers couldnby BoByS - Printing
Thanks for the informative reply, Downunder35m! Basically I'm assuming that my retract settings are somehow good for that extruder. Can you define good settings? They are a little bit harsh (3mm at 100 mm/min) but...well...it's not skipping too much on the retracts. Thanks for the info about the bad quality hotends, it's clearer now. I'll try to play with the extruder and the hotend (saw a videoby BoByS - Printing
Hi, folks! So, my situation is as following (it's driving me crazy and I really hope for help!) -> More than a month ago I've upgraded my Prusa i3 3D Printer to 1.75mm Bowden extruder (printed by myself) with E3D v5 (Chinese) hotend with great results. My old setup was with Wade's geared extruder and 3mm filament. The problems came a little bit later. The idea is that my extruder motor is skipby BoByS - Printing
Hi guys! I'm a mechanical engineer (Robotics specialist) and as a part of my PhD thesis I need to design and make a SCARA robot platform. The mechanics is almost complete, I'll start to 3D print a prototype soon on my Prusa i3. But I have a question about the Stepper motor drivers (for example: DM860A) - can I, somehow, use them with the Ramps board (as I have NEMA23 and NEMA32 motors on the platby BoByS - RAMPS Electronics
Dear RDM6! I put springs from Presa clothespins in my extruder. They are a little bit to stiff but they will do the job. I found them in Ikea for about $1. And I think that there were like 50 pins so...plenty enough for heated bed and extruders as well. Best regards! Bobbyby BoByS - Mechanics
Your screws are trapezoidal (as they call them - ACME) so you will never be able to turn a Tr10x2 (as you wrongly mention them M10x2) nut on a M10 screw. You need a Tr10x2 and you can find the hex version on e-Bay. The Bronze versions are something like 40$ (yeah, it's not quite cheap but there is a cheaper ones)... I'm watching for a while this forum and I saw many hobby enthusiasts that are caby BoByS - Mechanics
In the big books (Reprap's wiki) your problem is pretty well explained - 6mm OD and 4mm ID for 3mm filament; 3 (or 4) mm OD and 2mm ID for 1.75mm filament. I think that the gap is so big because of the variable diameter of the filament (and because of the standards, ofc). I got my PTFE tubing from a local fluid power company which is selling pneumatic components (I will not tell you the name beby BoByS - Mechanics
Just read this article carefully. I'm sure it will help you with your troubles. I don't have any experience in using PC power supply as well as Sanguinolulu but I think it's pretty straightforward - you have some sort of a power supply (PC or switching) and from it you will have an option with 12V. From these 12V it's pretty easy to realize how to connect the electronic boards... Best regards,by BoByS - Mechanics
Wow, thanks, guys! Your advices are great and very helpful! I think that now I can do the correct leveling of my printer. I checked the squareness of all of the axis and I was able to level them pretty good. Now I need to stick my kapton tape on my glass and do the vertical tolerances. Thank you again! Best regards, Bobbyby BoByS - Mechanics
Dear friends! With your amazing help, I was able to finally finish my first build of my 3D printer (single frame Prusa i3). But still, I have some troubles with the heated bed leveling... The situation is as follows: When I was assembling the Z axis, I notice that it's not perfectly parallel. It's not so bad, it's moving pretty nice (I don't have any tools - only some rulers). The problem is notby BoByS - Mechanics
Full respect about your work and projects! Why not some sort of a vehicle with tracks? I think the hardest part in this project will be the software and the sensors for the robot. How it will "find" the agricultural plants? Best regards, Bobbyby BoByS - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I will definitely make this case (with the LCD module installed). And if it will be open-source, of course. Best regards, Bobbyby BoByS - Look what I made!
Hook them like this ("in series") - . When you do this step, make sure that you put a thermoshrinkage tube on all of the joints as well as on the hole cable. It will avoid any shorts. If you do this, your motors will turn in the same direction and will have 1A on the each motor which means - maximum torque. I had some issues with my Z axis motors and I solve it by connecting them "in series". It'by BoByS - RAMPS Electronics
Dear wangfei! I solved this issue (at least one of yours) a few days ago. I have an electronics cooling fan (80mm 12V) and hotend cooling fan (30mm 12V). I hooked my 80mm fan directly to the + and - of the power supply. It's working all the time at 100%. I hooked my 30mm fan to the same connector that you describe and it's working again - all the time at 100% speed. The D09 connector is for a fanby BoByS - RAMPS Electronics