so it seems like my printer is putting down more plastic then the z axis thinks it is.. so after a layer or two what happens is that the printer head starts cutting though the plastic trying to print. so my question is this 1. z axis needs adjustment 2. i have crap media needs to be tossed in the trash side note: also having a back pressure issues with the extruder motor its a 1.5 A im runby Doug1 - General
so i had this genius idea Instead of fighting with my z arm / servo / endstop switch to make sure my board is level how about. 1. Get a conductive paint for the top of the plate 2. Run a wire with heat casing from the hot tip to Z end stop 3. run wire from conductive bed to the end stop ( hell for that mattter just another wire that is longer then the hot end) 4. Side benifit i dont have to taby Doug1 - General
ok i got answers on the marlin facebook users page. The General disparity between versions changed the default functionality of allot of components. With most of that resolved i think im ok moving forward from here.by Doug1 - Firmware - Marlin
Ok so i updated from Marlin 1.0.1 to 1.1.9 Problems so far 1. Axis all seem inverted when i move them manually 2. When i home X it go the right direction for like 1mm then drops z like 5mm 3. My bed temp sensor seems to think its in the pits of hell as it reads it could melt steel! any idea what i hosed up here ?by Doug1 - Firmware - Marlin
So like everyone who gets a reprap online all my friends say “Cool!” until they find out how much I spent on the darn thing ( about 1k trail kit + error parts ) . So my question is actually repstrap related. Anyone have a good list of stuff to scavenge 3d printer parts off of so far I have gotten 1. Stepper motor ( Ink jet printer ) 2. Smooth rods ( ink jet printer ) Just wondering if there isby Doug1 - General
Now a for profit corporation exists only to generate profit, so when they are releasing something “free” realize they think at some level giving this away with generate more money than it will cost. The question is whos going to pay that cost.by Doug1 - General
Ok guys looking for some suggestions here that hopfully wount send me to the poor house. Now i built an I3XL already but some of the mods i want cant really be accomplished with that design. so looking at the Haeckel. Last i figured i need about 10 meters of the stuff.by Doug1 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Wow i havent gotten mine near 80, the excruder seems to stay around 35 or 40 as does z motors just X and Y heat up .. X not to hot but might turn y down a bit see how that works.by Doug1 - General
Use use a couple long wire ties. not perfect but holds the fan in place! So yea i would love to see a mount that actually "hit perfectly" on the build plate.by Doug1 - General
I know acouple people out there have printers from these guys. I noticed reciently either thier staff or someone added a couple useful parts to thingyverse. 1. Auto leveling bed servo mount and arm for that huge print head ( printed and tried it. works great! ) 2, LCD controller mount.. (Printed it , had to use a rotory tool to make the stands a mm or two wider to fit the I3xl's frame but afteby Doug1 - General
I don’t know if this is the right section for this but here goes. So I solved my binding problem by leveling the X carriage. I had recently moved the printer and didn’t level the table before leveling the printer.. Anyway all better. Now the overheating issue first I don’t know if it’s even an issue. X Motor gets to about 100F and the Y Motor gets to about 120F( close to the end of a 4 hour prinby Doug1 - General
Ok so i have a I 3xl (Pursa) basically i printed for about 4 hours yesterday and with out problems. My 3rd job a big gear wheel went fine for about 30 layers then the X started binding up. Killed the print job and tried to move it mannually and it seemed to stick in a couple spots down the axis. So now comes to the part i need help with. I released tension on the belt to see if it was the barby Doug1 - Printing
Ok follow up post.. Lets see. So they sent me a new excruder frame , no big gear or hardware just body and locking nut . Anyway got that all put together this weekend. Bit of trouble there but i dont imagine that ever goes as smoothly as planned. I did get a chance to try out the new hot end.. Works great! no back pressure etc. The only issue i have ( with the hot end) is that it still so lonby Doug1 - General
Ok guys can use some help here. Ill get pictures later if anyone cares to see it but basically. In the past i had a J-head Grove mount block i could just put a srew in for my auto leveling bed servo. Problem is the new excruder setup doesnt have a block its rounded edges and the j-head grove mount in the base of the excruder. So any suggestions for mounting one of these from the bottom of theby Doug1 - General
Ok last time we had a pretty negative thread going so thought I would be fair and post my latest interaction with them. So I managed to crack my j-head grove mount block pealed it apart probably due to the back pressure issue with the print head I could never solve. I emailed them since my attempt at making one out of a wood block failed pretty horribly I don’t really have the tools to do thatby Doug1 - General
Ok so after i discoverd my DIY hotend was pretty much crap i decided to get a Geeetech from amazon.$30 came with a heater / thermistor etc all taped up and setup already.Well this seemed to work ok until my j head block broke.. lucky me i had another one! Well that broke too. So alittle study time showed me why, Apperntly there is a very strict standard for the exact size of the lip above notch tby Doug1 - General
Ok so still troubleshooting my X i think other issues as well. Based on these prints anyone have a suggestion on where to go next ? I think the first 3/4 looking rough might be heat related, although wonder why the top looked so good i think the reason there is that its solid ( honey combed) I'm printing black pla first layer is 195 all others are 190 So any suggestions etc would be great!by Doug1 - Printing
dwalker dont feel bad i have never gotten anything back from them in under 30 days.by Doug1 - General
This is kinda sad but really what im intresting in hearing more about is your cable management. I took mine apart this weekend to cut down a few wires try to turn that spagetti mess into something more manageable and eliminate cross talk at the same time with some shielded wire wraps. Problem I been running into is the heated bed wires vs the auto leveling servo arm and end stop. X end stopby Doug1 - Prusa i3 and variants
Now i have heard a bit about this. From what i gather you have to use multi meter, Red on the pot blackon power supply negitive. set voltage to dc 20 Now what to adjust it to exactly im not sure i am still trying to figure that out. I dont like the idea of subjective adjustments anyway rather have a solid number to setby Doug1 - Reprappers
Think will try giving it back some power tonight see how that shakes out . Although i wonder how hot its supposed to get. Either way i dont think i can get that grub screw tigher with out risking breaking my driver or having it strip the threads on the pully. Although i did entertain the idea of driling a stright though and pining it in..by Doug1 - Reprappers
I did but very mild issues. Mostly adjusted the steppers because the motors were getting hot. by hot i mean like less then a cup of press pot coffee hotby Doug1 - Reprappers
So i have a small probem i have not quite been able to identify the cause of yet. The problem is im missing steps or something at -X for instance circle seems to not be effected but square or the big gear pattern slide a bit wades big gear starts sliding at layer 2 the test cube seemed to make it about 30 layers then slid a good half inch then fine for the rest the print although my test cubeby Doug1 - Reprappers
Ok so recommendations for where i should get a good role of filiment ?by Doug1 - Reprappers
It tries to step and failed intermittently. Ya I should try new filiment. Even failing still plastic comes out. Thinking maybe it's not .4 after all hmm need to check thatby Doug1 - Reprappers
So back pressure still seems to be a problem. so much so i blew out the hot end had to torch the brass to clean it and retighten it down. trying to fix this i have 1. Calibrated the excruder motor ( per reprap guide ) 2. slowed down the printing speed. 3. Limited the layer height of 0.2mm ( nozzle is .4) 4. tested the excruder ( told it to spit out 20mm of filiment and it did measuredby Doug1 - Reprappers
This is kinda funny actually. I had my X and Y crossed what is funnier is that have had sevral successful prints like that.. Although i did wonder a couple times why thing always seemed to be laid out the wrong directions .. ciutateivissa - I have my X ( thought it was Y ) end stop mounted the same way. The one that is giving me the headach is the actual Y end stop the directions have it mounteby Doug1 - Prusa i3 and variants
I kinda the same problem when i first finished mine. Here is a guide to the calbration page.by Doug1 - General