Thank you, reproducible was one of the main design factors. Currently the lead screw is a plain m5 treaded rod with two nuts. Most prusa i3 printers are using the same. For my larger "final" version I want to use a better lead screw bought from e-bay as shown below. As this is not locally available for everyone lead screw types will be one of the parameters. I think options will be: - M5 rodby bitflusher - Developers
The first printed version is now assembled and actually is able to move. I only had to re-print one item in order to assemble a mostly complete mini version. The third smoothrod cannot be attached to the z stage because of an error, the main frame is about 2 mm off. Here is a YouTube clip of the first movements: Below some pictures:by bitflusher - Developers
Quick update: This weekend I printed my first small scale version. It needa many small fixes but it might be possible to assemble (with some filing and drilling). This will most likely never print anything, it would need a 70X70mm vat.by bitflusher - Developers
Today i received a stack of square petri dishes. These will become vats The dishes have lids, handy during application of the PDMS layer (keep the dust out).by bitflusher - Developers
It seems the video and my description is unclear on many details. Included are some closeups. There are currently 3 LM8UU, these are mounted in the only code i sourced elsewhere. I really liked the design by Jonas Kühling (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14942). The lead screw is currently an m5 treaded rod. this vitamin is currently not included in the render. It shows as a little hole in tby bitflusher - Developers
A little more progress on the design. I think it is time for a small scale print of the printer. here is a render: The mirror mount is currently least mature. I have not figured out how I can het something that is easy to mount/print and switch from front to side projecting. Right now it is a simple loose stand. Really curious how it looks in real life!by bitflusher - Developers
Thank you for your feedback. To reduce the chance of binding, and wear, locate the lead screw between the two guides. Guiding the lead screw, are you suggesting placing it on barings? This one is one of the design desisions that bothered me. Most mendel variations (including my prusa i2) do not use them. I have seen discussions on how nesecary with "evidence" supporting both options are better.by bitflusher - Developers
About two weeks ago I found a local source of UV curable resin dor DLP 3d printing. Looking at the designs for this type of printer I realized none were ready to print and assemble, many projects are one offs and are in the category “research into DLP printing technique”. Many are wooden or aluframes with little printed parts. This is when I decided to build my own one off.. It had to have a littby bitflusher - Developers
First thing: have you tried feeding the filament by hand through your hotend? It it takes an incredible ammount of force something might be wrong with the hotend instead of the extruder. I had this with my first hotend, never a single succesfull print with it. It might be clogged, slightly off centre in one of the parts or the temp is way lower than reported by the firmware.by bitflusher - General
I recently was at the 3d print event in Eindhoven. This was my first time to have real life face to face talks with other people making/using open source DIY printers. I had a few talks with the Ultimaker people. They use mxl timing belts and pulleys and asked about quality differences in the prints. They say the quality is not that different not enough tension on the belts is the quaity killer.by bitflusher - General
I have been using a sanded (grain 80) ikea mirror for months. I use a heated bed but my cheap just would not stick without tape. No acetone wiping worked. Sanding it made my super cheap pla stick but detaches after the bed cools. On the other hand high(er) end pla is extremely hard to remove (knifes and force needed). I have not printed on an unsanded mirror on the latter pla So a solution for yby bitflusher - General
My kit came with a peek only nozzle with a slightly out of centre drilled brass coupling. The friction was enormous(hard to extrude by hand). After a few nights of frustration I decided to make my own hotend with a pfte liner. As a new reprapper perhaps I should have just bought one bit it came out reasonably successful. I still have to document it (shame on me). But it is called the frankennozby bitflusher - General
Building a sub £100 would be really low. On the wiki a cost reduction page estimates a $300 (about £190) ( ). It all depends on your box of available/salvaged parts and toolbox. You will probably be building a repstrap ( ). Problem with development of a cheap printer based on your own available parts is reproducability. Your collection is most likely unique and will be much more expensive andby bitflusher - Developers
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It looks like a motor with only one coil > connected. Is is possibly you had a bad connection > and disturbed it when re-flashing? I don't know, multiple motors acted like this on multiple ports on my electronics. re-crimping one of my motors (irc advice) changed nothing. Re flashing instantly fixed all motors onby bitflusher - Reprappers
I had irradic stepper movements (vid here ) In my case a reflash of the firmware was enough, unable to reproduce. took me days to just try a reflash.by bitflusher - Reprappers
looking at there are a few sls printers, I think none of them are actively developped or reproduced. there might be a source of inspiration for your own project there (perhaps collaboration) talks about the laser and energy consumtion on materials that require lots of power to melt.by bitflusher - General
I maintain a wax printer by solidscape. These printer indeed use wax, Two types of wax. the jets are not really like inktjet printers. They use only one hole while inktjets use many (correct me if i'm wrong). The jets use piezo electric power to eject the wax. Printing materials The printer uses two types of wax build (green) and support (purple/pink). Both have different melting points (forgotby bitflusher - General
riptou Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > OK the extruder motor is working now. It's not > turning, but it gets power as I can't turn it when > it's on. I click on extrude 5mm or reverse, but it > doesn't move. > > Frantz For this I commented out the extrution safety feature in marlin configuration.h: //#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE Just tby bitflusher - Reprappers
Thank you for the before and after Comparisons like this with photos and ander info would be a nice addition on the wiki page Choosing_Belts_and_Pulleys. Perhaps close ups of critical parts/major improvement areas.by bitflusher - Reprappers
Having operated a commercial 3d printer (Solidscape R66) I think without basic assembly skills it is hard to operate any 3d printer. Many minor issues lead to major problems. Slightly too much tension on one belt, a little bit of wear or a speck of something on the nozzle and your prints turn our horrible. Now I think almost any hobby (small rockets launching to golf) will cause some frustrationby bitflusher - Developers
I am still in the heavy calibration/learning phase. Barely able to get decent prints so I should be a target user. For me the applet simply does not give any results. I did not have java installed yet so now its the latest from java.com (Version 7 Update 4). I run windows 7 x64. browsers tested: ie9 all updated, chrome 19.0.1084.52 m. Behaviour is as follows: either entering my numbers or usingby bitflusher - Developers
Brimming seems like a nice addition to slicers. Hope it will be somewhere in the advanced section to avoid overwelming (new) users with features. "Brim all objects","number of brim loops (0= equal to skirt)" and "brim speed (0 = equal to skirt)" already add three parameters.by bitflusher - General
I love this and hope to create my own in the future (already started looking at suppliers for aluminium profiles)by bitflusher - FoldaRap
I added the info from this topic to the wiki in page Aluminium_profile_Suppliers (direct link caused this to be flagged as spam) Thanx for the infoby bitflusher - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Although I have no experience with this this could help you troubleshoot but it will be a lot of work. With a gcode viewer you can look at what should be happening. Then you know it it is a printer problem or a model problem.by bitflusher - General
This one cought my eye: QuoteLead time: one week Either this is really really unrealistic and there will be massive massive delays. Or everything is ready to go, files are ready machines are fully hooked up and all materials are stocked. The first will disappoint a lot of people, the second means it is not a kickstarter but an easy to start webshop.by bitflusher - General
I got this from a dutch forum(http://3dprinterbouwpakket.nl/): for B57560G104F: Tempertature Table: // r0: 100000 // t0: 25 // r1: 0 // r2: 4700 // beta: 3974 // max adc: 1023 #define NUMTEMPS 20 short temptable[2] = { {1, 916}, {54, 265}, {107, 216}, {160, 189}, {213, 171}, {266, 157}, {319, 146}, {372, 136}, {425, 127}, {478, 118}, {531, 110}, {584, 103}, {637, 95}, {690, 88}, {743, 80}, {796by bitflusher - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I think this belongs to the forums like "RepRap Marketplace and Job Shop". If you start describing enhancements and asking for feedback on these enhancements it could remain a forum. "He's made a number of enhancements" certainly is not enough. I hate spam and this is (almost) is....by bitflusher - General