hah - I moved to Skeinforge after struggling with reprap host, but that in itself is a steep learning curve!!by AgeingHippy - General
Sorry, I should have posted an update as promised in my previous post regarding the insert from hobbys in London. It seems to be working fine. I tighten the nuts tightly and there is no slipping so the fact that the grub screw is missing does not cause a problem. The hexagon base is not a problem as its max diameter is less than the diameter of the bearing. All good so go for it. (I cannot chby AgeingHippy - General Mendel Topics
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > NewPerfection Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > I doesn't make sense for the FPDR to be 1. If you > look at your feed after going through the filament > drive, you will see teeth marks on it. PLA is > harder than ABS so the teeth don't dig in as deep. > By digging inby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
anyone have the knowledge?by AgeingHippy - RepRap Host
Hmm... when you say you feed 10mm and it was almost 10 mm that went in how close is almost? Perhaps you should try feeding in 100mm and make your adjustments based on that? Then your measurement errors are muchh reduced. 1mm in 10 = 10% 1mm in 100 = 1% Probably not the root or your problem, but it will bring one of your variables closer to the expected value. Why not post a small snippet of yby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
Keep at it. Skeinforge is quite a thing to get to work, but in the end it gets you there. The way I did it was to proceed through all the Craft tabs in a sequential manner. You will see there is a question mark on a button. for each of the tabs. Clicking that brings up a web page of documentation. I essentially set everything to the default to start with.by AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
By my calculations and where feedstock diameter: 3mm nozzle diameter: 0.5mm mm_out = head travel = 20mm volume in = volume out -> Diameter_in*Pi*mm_in = Diameter_out*pi*mm_out -> mm_in = Diameter_out*mm_out/Diameter_in = 0.5*20/3 = 3.33 mm -> so your E should read around 3.33mm Check your packing ratio (My calculations assume 1 which is for PLA and apparantly 0.85 for ABS) Also, isby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Use the new skirt function and you will never have > to press the "Extrude" button again! I wish. Unfortunately I had a slipping feed again last night (not sure why) and need to jig the extruder this way and that to re-prime/load new filament into it. My question still stands if anyone has the know-how... Reby AgeingHippy - RepRap Host
Hello All I have converted to Skeinforge 40 which requires the Extruder steps per mm in the firmware to be for the feedstock rather than for the extrudate (is there such a word?). I still use RepRap host to send the gcode to my printer, and also to jig the axis etc when required. The extrude function on the host sends the instructions in terms of extrudate length rather than feedstock length.by AgeingHippy - RepRap Host
I installed HeeksCNC as opposed to HeeksCAD - so CNC has the undo button, although only works to one level... but better than nothing.by AgeingHippy - 3D Design tools
Boo - I just found an email on reprap developers list about the maker fairs, and the UK one was this weekend What a shame, would have been nice to go along and talk to some of you. So who went and how was it?by AgeingHippy - General
Hi All I am currently trying to dial in my E_STEPS_PER_MM for my extruder to work with gcode cut by Skeinforge 40. I am using this approach as suggested by araspitfire. Thing is, I am not getting consistent results when running twice with the same settings... sometimes my extruder motor will skip some steps... one run extruded about 1.5mm too much, whereas the next extruded 4.5mm to little. Iby AgeingHippy - Reprappers
Gosh - 300mm/s!! is that with sf40 so that is 30mm of feedstock a second!! ??by AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
New thread created as it is a different issue. In response to my stating I get a blob at the start of each new extruded thread in this forum thread brnrd asked:- >What did you set your retract and restart to? >I guess with the new firmware setting for SF 40 >you should have it set to 1 and 0, respectively. >If your restart is larger than 0, then you will probably >get a blob.by AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
Hi Morrist M105 is a request for the temperature G92 sets the current position to whatever parameters follow, so I guess a G92 without parameters would set the current position as home. That may be why it jogs half way accross and then returns hom - not sure though. See here for more about gcodesby AgeingHippy - General Mendel Topics
That indeed is an interesting observation madscifi. If I am not mistaken, the updated x-axis now has the teeth of the belt facing inward? I guess that will also cause similar errors in the x-axis, although possibly less pronounced due to 4 bearings as opposed to 2 of the Y axis. I think that would mean the X-Axis should be redesigned back to having the teeth facing outwards... with the necessarby AgeingHippy - General Mendel Topics
I think that certainly will be a big help Al. I mentioned earlier that my extruder would start jittering/stuttering after a while. I found that my replace.csv file was not being actioned and therefore the power to the extruder was being taken from the M113 0.75 code rather than the pot (an M113 code without a parameter, which is what my replace file replaces the M113 0.75 section with). It tuby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
This is not working for me. I calculate my steps per mm at 79.98 I am using the standard reprap firmware and a 7.96mm diameter pinch wheel. gear ratio is the old Ardian's ratio of 55/11 Under 39 my stepper calculations were based on half stepping so that is what I used here. ??!! I hardly get anything extruded. What is the default step ratio (full, half 1/8, 1/16) for the standard reprap fiby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
wohoo - looking forward to another of your quality blogs Nophead. Stupid question for those in the know - How do I go about instructing my extruder to do a full rotation? How do I go about sending 200 step instructions (or multiples thereof to ease measurement)? Cheersby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
In response to my asking whether the inside or outside of the teeth is used in determining the diameter nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It depends how far the plastic sinks in. I think > with ABS it is the inside of the teeth but PLA > sees a larger diameter. This difference is more > extreme the smaller the pinch wheel is. I would think thatby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
So when you are measuring your pinch wheel diameter, is it to the outside of the teeth or the inside? I think it should be the outside... cheersby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
I was feeling somewhat uncomfortable with the pricepoint I chose, so I have changed my non-ebay prices to £6 for just the block and £8 for block+extras. (as apposed to the original £8 and £10 I posted yesterday) When I place it on ebay I may increase the price sligthly to make up for the listing charges and 10% sales price charges....by AgeingHippy - For Sale
I appreciate Aluminium is cheaper, but I have brass in stock from when I tooled up to make my own heater block. Perhaps if there is a sustainable market for me to produce heater blocks then I may source some aluminium and give people a choice... but for now I need to recover my equipment and materials costs. Also - brass looks niiice What is the expansion difference between aluminium and brby AgeingHippy - For Sale
Hi jcabrer Can you describe your hot end please? I am particularly interested in the interface between your hot end and the thermal break. Is there any special machining involved? Cheersby AgeingHippy - Reprappers
Hi All I am selling Brass heater blocks (as pioneered by Nophead). The brass is 18mm x 18mm by approx 9mm. Threaded for M6 barrels With a 5mm diameter hole for the resistor With a 2.5mm recess (approx 4mm deep) for the standard thermistor Block only is £6 + postage (58p for 2'nd class) Block + resistor + 2 bootlace ferrules to connect the resistor to your wires £8 + postage (58p for 2'nd clby AgeingHippy - For Sale
> What type of emergency requires a 3d printer? Impatiance I'm sureby AgeingHippy - General
good luck with the venture.by AgeingHippy - For Sale
Hey James I am tooled up to create these blocks and have been thinking of putting them on ebay. Just being a little slow in getting it together. They will not be aluminium but brass (I don't have aluminium bar at the moment). Would you want the resistor as well? If a brass heater block is acceptable let me know and I can make one for you tonight and send it out. I assume your barrel is M6?by AgeingHippy - Wanted
Hey MrJohn You could do either but might find your thermistor is more accurate if you drill a hole for it. I have a 2.5mm hole in which I have inserted a little thermal paste and then the thermistor, taping it up with kapton to keep it in. Perhaps cementing it in would be better then the kapton would not be required (which is untidy). A hint re the extruder - When you create your 'junction boaby AgeingHippy - General
WOW - if you can do a kit at about £300 then I am sure you will have people snapping them up from all over the world!!! I don't see how you will be making money out of such a low price! Maybe by volume, but I don't know if you will be able to get the volume sales required. If you look around you will see that the average price for a complete kit is closer to £700 - £1000. Of course, it also deby AgeingHippy - For Sale