I Found you have a 200 x 200 x 240mm Print area. Which Cura are you using we need to configure it for your CTC A8 Reprap i3.by Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
I am kind in the dark here as to everything you are doing. What Slicer are you Using. What is the Slicer settings? How far off the bed is it trying to print. Post more information on the forum so we have an ideal what we need to know in order to help you.by Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif Read this may help Connecting The Anet A8 3D Printer to Your Computer and Firmware Update Drivers The Second link is a Driver Linkby Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
Read this may help Connecting The Anet A8 3D Printer to Your Computer and Firmware Update Driversby Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif I have been printing with Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape over My Build Surface now for Almost 1 year with no Build Surface adhesion Problems. Now that I have turned up the Temp 86°-100°C to the Build Surface, Air bubbles are forming between the Build Surface and the Aluminum Heat bed. I Am Going to Quote Myself, somehow we got off track. I stopped using the Transfer Tape on the buiby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelawnm0wer lately, my monoprice mini delta's shortcomings (small print size, inability to print ABS) have been frustrating, and I'm looking to make or buy an upgrade. You may want to read this article,by Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
First I cleaned the aluminum heat bed surface that was about to receive the build surface, and allowed to dry completely. I measured the build plate cut the build surface to fit the Heat Bed, warmed the hotbed removed the paper backing for the build surface. Then center the build surface above the bed allowing the front edge to touch and using a Vinyl transfer squeegee I slowly lowered the surfacby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
I would add them to my OctoPrint Raspberry Pi Viaby Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
Bad News on My ABS Printing endeavor. I have been printing with Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape over My Build Surface now for Almost 1 year with no Build Surface adhesion Problems. Now that I have turned up the Temp 86°-100°C to the Build Surface, Air bubbles are forming between the Build Surface and the Aluminum Heat bed. Is this what everyone is mistaking for an warped build surface or is this someby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
Marlin's G-Codesby Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
Try M117 - Set LCD Message ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 My Print...by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
Read the assemble manual online or watch an assemble video for your 3D Printer on Youtube previous to it's arrival, this will prepare you for this Very important real life TEST! " Can you follow instructions. " Take your time and it will go smoothly as if you have already assembled one before.by Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
My printers are similar to you RepRap Guru, When I printed my Yard Light Globe. which is also a thin skinned model. I found that the Connection between the Stepper motor and the Lead Screws, by way of the flexible coupler was not a "True" connection. Ended up wrapping a single revolution of electricians tape around the bottom of the lead screw before attaching the coupler to true the fittings wiby Roberts_Clif - Printing
Quotecozmicray notice Genova engineered backbone into their gutter bracket to take the load like T-beam Ok! Ok! ok. I did forget the backbone, this will not take very long to add. And will add additional strength to the bracket.by Roberts_Clif - Printing
Printed the Gutter Bracket Anything is better than having to replace the whole gutter system.by Roberts_Clif - Printing
Thank You! I will continue to try, but is not like I actually need this Part. I want this learning process to grind in so I can make better parts.by Roberts_Clif - Printing
Decide to change all settings reprint and try again. Better but still not a useful adapter. To make it clear I am not blaming the Adapter, I am putting the blame on the 3D Printing of the Object.by Roberts_Clif - Printing
Today I 3D Printed a garden hose adapter. They came out looking good. The adapter was connected to the outside faucet with no other parts except for a rubber washer to seal the connection. Though they sprayed water out lots of cracks in-between the seams, which wakes them unusable for water as is. Is there a special way to print these to make them work or have I found a limit to what can beby Roberts_Clif - Printing
I only Have PLA and ABS, What would you Print this with. Let's take a test print to see if the Bracket fits my sample Gutter piece. Looks good. Now lets print the whole Gutter Bracket in Brown.by Roberts_Clif - Printing
Today I designed a Gutter Bracket using ThinkerCad, the Gutter was originally made with vinyl using ABS Brackets to support the Vinyl Gutter. The gutter dimensions are 2.75 x 4.5 inches this is for a gutter that has hard to find parts. I believe that ABS is the best material for this part, as I have not yet purchased any PETG. Will post the results when printing has completed.by Roberts_Clif - Printing
I do it manually every time, and remove with tweezers, and if any extra comes out on the way down to the bed, as my Home is in the front left corner I retrieve it and continue to print. Using a 1 wrap skirt irf it becomes necessary I will increase the skirt to more loops. The reason for the Skirt is that I can also use it to adjust the 1st layer height adhesion using the Z axis Baby-Stepping.by Roberts_Clif - General
Could be true but most of us will never pay 81 dollars for 1kg of high speed PLA filament, with no viable benefit from this new PLA filament. Doubled down doubt that most hobby 3D Printers will reach this 500mm/s print speed with any viable 3D Prints.by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I find that I have to enable the Bed Leveling in the Slicer like so M420 S1 ; Bed Leveling on. these are the last 3 line in my slicers startup G-Code. G92 E0 ;reset extruder length M420 S1 ; Bed Leveling On M220 S32.000000 If I do not enable the Bed leveling data I also crash into the Bed on occasions.by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
OK here is my Marlin 1.1.5 shareable Link. This one is setup for Duel Extruders - Have not added second extruder yet so it is untestedby Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
The Image of the 3 Bat-o-Rangs and the whistle all in ABS printed at 230C lowest Temperature on the ABS filament Roll (230-260C). Same as the First ABS Print however the ABS on that roll temperature was 210-240C. All part are as they came off the bed no cleanup. As I was in a hurry the printed item were a little to high so all did not lay perfectly flat on the bed, they all experienced a littlby Roberts_Clif - Printing
Well I decide to start the Next type ABS 230-260 temp range, started the first prints at 230C it was looking well then the Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape came off the 96C Hotbed. Started the Second ABS print 230C on my Build Surface which is like brand new because I have always used the Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape seem to adhere to to build surface. Printing three Bat-o-Rangs in black on 1st 3D Printerby Roberts_Clif - Printing
Sometimes when Inductive probes are mounted with metal or close to metal they can respond this way. Can you show a picture of the mounted probe, and if it close to any metal that could keep the sensor from resetting to open. It could also be wiring show sensor wiring diagram and sensor type.by Roberts_Clif - Printing
I believe what you are seeing is the camera flash. I have a three the center one is ABS the outer ones are PLA, not really as shinny until the flash hit it... The First three ABS Colors I purchased two have a Temperature range of 210 - 240 the third was a mistaken PLA, was discounted $5.00 to keep. The Second three ABS Colors I purchased One has Temperature range of 210 - 240 two have Temperaby Roberts_Clif - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist I believe bridges can be printed with less sag with a blower than without. Prints that have large area layers will print fine without a print blower. How large depends on how fast you print. If you have a bridge it is better if you have the model fan on. The longer you bridge the more I find it is better to have a cooling fan. The longest bridge I have successful compby Roberts_Clif - Mechanics
At 180C I find the layer adhesion inadequate, the lowest I have printed PLA was 192C. I now print PLA at 200C. I find that when you use a fan blowing on the model you can bridge better for longer distances without sagging. When I use a fan blowing on the model I can print faster by using a hotter hot-end and cool the PLA so I do not get the ugly melted look on the layers.by Roberts_Clif - Mechanics