"perimeter print speed of 40 mm/s external perimeters at 64 mm/s" I'm pretty sure this is quite unusual. I didn't change lots of my Sl1c3r settings, but my perimeters are printed at 60, and my external perimeters at 30 mm/s. In Cura I set 60mm/s inner, 40mm/s outer perimeters. Try to swap those speeds, the outer perimeters usually get printed somewhat slower to improve surface quality.von Inhumierer - Printing
Yes, looks like a bad wire. I had a similar issue with my extruder, and I found out that one of the cables was almost broken, giving a bad connection during extruder acceleration.von Inhumierer - Printing
Read the GCode, answer is in it.von Inhumierer - Repetier
350mA? Was haste denn mit dem vor?von Inhumierer - Schwarzes Brett
I don't have any experience with PLA, so I usually skip PLA issues when it comes to speed & temperature. But from everything I've read, you absolutely need a part cooling fan when printing PLA. And regarding your previous questions about your i3: I can't find any of these, can you pls provide some links?von Inhumierer - Printing
You may try the bridging thest from here:von Inhumierer - Printing
I don't get any bridges when slicing with Cura or Sl1c3r, probably because of my nozzle settings.von Inhumierer - Printing
Although I'm a bit late: Wire 3 to pin 1, wire 4 to pin 9, wire 5 to pin 2, wire 6 to pin 10 and so on.von Inhumierer - General Mendel Topics
I can't print at the moment. I did yesterday, and I noticed hotend temp issues. I print ABS at 240, and my temp varies from 239 to 240.5. Yesterday it jumped up & down, about 20-30 degrees. And it jumped so fast, I assume a loose contact to the temperature sensor. Usually the temp doesn't fall or rise 20 degrees in less than a second. Anyway the printed parts came out quite well. I didn't finvon Inhumierer - Printing
Quotecheffeundwackl Das grösste Problem beim Recycling ist das Schreddern. Am Ende sollten kleine Krümel raus fallen, die sich problemlos extrudieren lassen. Hier ist Mechanik gefragt, die was taugt. Denn die Plastikteile musst Du ja langsam Schreddern da Du ja sonst den Kunststoff beim Schreddern schmilzt (Schnellläufer fällt aus). Dann pappt Dir der ganze Schei... zusammen, Das wieder rum benötvon Inhumierer - Allgemeines
Quotestevie72 PS: Könnt Ihr für eine Z Achse eine präzisions Spindel empfehlen ? Ich möchte das bei meinem Mendel90 das rumgeiere aufhört ..... Ich hab mich einfach dran gewöhnt, bei mir eiert auch nur eine der Stangen ein wenig. Z Wobble Probleme habe ich nicht, ist halt nur ein Schönheitsfehler. Daher habe ich auch keine Empfehlung. Edit: Wenn's Dir nur um das Geeire geht, geh einfach in den nävon Inhumierer - Software
The gaps between the perimeters and the infill may be closed if you increase the infill overlap. You may try to print the same thing but slice it with Cura. For some things, especially holes and structures like this, Cura gives better results. Or try the new Prusa Sl1c3r. At the bottom layer you can't tell if it is over extrusion or a bed distance issue. My first layer sometimes look similar, provon Inhumierer - Printing
If you have Repetier Server running, and it is connected to the printer, your other programs (like Pronterface, Repetier Host etc.) need to connect to Repetier Server, NOT the printer itself. If you disconnect or shut down Repetier Server, you should be able to connect to your printer with Pronterface, Repetier Host etc.von Inhumierer - Printing
Bei meinem Mendel90 sind alle Endstops max - nach dem "nach hause fahren" steht der Druckkopf oben rechts hinten. Der Nullpunkt ist in der Mitte des Betts.von Inhumierer - Software
Witziger Zufall. Ich hab schon länger mal nach den verfügbaren Extrudern geschaut, die in der Lage sind, Pellets oder gar geschreddertes Material in Filament einzuschmelzen. Was ich bisher gesehen habe erscheint mir ziemlich überteuert, und ich sehe bei vielen Selbstbauansätzen meschanische Probleme bzw. Unzulänglichkeiten, die sich eigentlich leicht lösen lassen sollten. Da das Prinzip sehr einfvon Inhumierer - Allgemeines
I didn't use Repetier Server, so I don't know it, but you need to stop the Repetier Server before you try to connect with Repetier Host or anything else. You probably know this already, but I just want to be sure.von Inhumierer - Printing
Du kannst die Motoren auch in Serie schalten, das sollte für die Z-Achse ohne weiteres gehen. Dann muss der Treiber auch nicht nachjustiert werden.von Inhumierer - Elektrik & Elektronik
Good you solved it. Anyway, if the LED went out when the bed had 27 degrees, and the bed was still heating up, you probably watched the wrong LED.von Inhumierer - Printing
If you get access denied it's most commonly some other software still accessing the port. You can't connect two programs at the same time. Check if any of your software, like Ardunio IDE, Pronterface, Repetier host or similar is still running.von Inhumierer - Printing
3.8 Ohm is a reasonable value for the bed, this seems to be good. These nasty polyfuses do behave very strange sometimes, but it doesn't sound like a polyfuse problem. Is your bed loosing the voltage and stops heating, or is your RAMPS shutting down the heater for any reason? In your test print logfiles from May 7 I can see the bed temp is set to 70 deg, then reaches 69.something, and then dropsvon Inhumierer - Printing
Ghosting or ringing is when the Y carriage makes a "hard" change of movement, f.ex. if you print a box, or you have a wall in x direction and there are some vertical things like holes, letters or similar. The carriage swings a bit, and you get an echo of the movement beside the structure. Goggle for "3d print ringing", you'll see what it is. Hundreds of pictures. In Sl1c3r there are extra bridgivon Inhumierer - Printing
0.00 is indeed a very low value. I almost can't believe this is true. Normally the measuring lines itself will have some 0.02 or 0.1 Ohm resistance. Do you have any chance to check if your multimeter may be broken? You got a spare 12V light bulb, maybe for the car or some halogen room light? Or check your extruder heating? A 40W 12V heating cartridge should have about 3-4 Ohm.von Inhumierer - Printing
I never printed PLA, so I'm unsure why you can print 0.4mm extr width with a 0.4mm nozzle and the parts are good. Maybe it's because PLA is more like rubber when hot, ABS is more like honey, less flexible. When you press hot plastic through a 0.4mm hole, the extruded line is cylindric, and a bit thicker than 0.4mm - it depends on the material, the surface tension (Oberflächenspannung), on the temvon Inhumierer - Printing
This littel thing will do perfect for this. Just turn it to the left 2 more, so it points at 200 Ohm (this is the Greek Omega, the upside "U"). When you connect the test wires directly it should read 0 or a very small number. If you connect your bed to them the number sould be somewhere in the range 1.2 to 3.something, probably. If you have less than 1.0 or more than 5, the wire or the bed is provon Inhumierer - Printing
0.4mm nozzle diameter is the hot plastic coming out of the extruder. The printer will squeeze this onto the bed or the lower layers, so the actual extrusion width is larger than the nozzle diameter. Some smart people made some formular to get the smallest possible extrusion width, but it's definitely wider than the nozzle. So extracting 0.4mm with a 0.4mm nozzle will surely not work. The extrusiovon Inhumierer - Printing
Yes, a broken wire to the heated bed can cause similar problems. At the beginning the bed may be ok, starting to heat. During the print, while the bed is shaking, the wire may loose contact, and the bed will stop heating. With a multimeter you can check your bed - disconnect the wires, and check the R with your multimeter. A 12V or 24V bed would have a few Ohms, a mains power bed will have more -von Inhumierer - Printing
Besides your stepping problem it looks like the object is too hot. You may try to increase the part cooling and/or decrease print temp.von Inhumierer - Printing
Yes, good hint. I took h4nc's settings and set nozzle diameter to 0.5mm (because my nozzle is 0.5mm), forgot to mention this. Your PLA prints look good, so maybe you may lower the extruder temp by some degrees and increase the infill speed when pinting ABS.von Inhumierer - Printing
Leaky nozzle, I think. Looks like some of my prints. When moving without extraction, my head spits a bit hot plastic, and this is missing when extrusion starts again. I see little holes in your print right after movement, and the "overextraction" signs are visible where movement happens or stops, I assume. With my extruder I couldn't get rid of this completely, no matter what retraction settingsvon Inhumierer - Printing
It may be a bad PID setting. Did you save your old PID values anywhere before flashing new firmware? Wrong PID values may cause heating taking ages or not reaching the target at all, and a mix of both - especially when combined with some fresh air from an open window. Maybe you should save or write dowm your PID values and try auto tuning.von Inhumierer - Printing