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Printing issues ...
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Brilliant. Thank you!
-Matt
by
mappler
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Slic3r
I am printing an object (a lot) that leaves me ZERO room for a skirt. I can prime by hand, but this is less desirable to me.
However, I do have room on the bed to print a small, say 20mmx20mm square or circle in a single layer to get the nozzle primed. Is there any way in Slic3r to direct such a thing? I have tried adding a single layer circle to the print, but I can't figure out how force Sl
by
mappler
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Slic3r
Good catch VDX. He only linked to a Minecraft server url while commenting on a 6 year old thread. You might just delete that post.
by
mappler
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General
I just added a picture for insufficient material extrusion. This took my a while to figure out. My printer had been working fine, but then started producing totally unusable output. Turns out I somehow changed the filament diameter setting in Slic3r to 3mm instead of 1.75mm. I'll try and take a few more pictures of the failures. Although my problem wasn't on the page yet, this page was VER
by
mappler
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Printing
Has it really been 1 year since I tried to get my printer working...wow.
Just leaving this solution here in case someone else has the same problem. The issue was NOT the printer, but the slicer software. Somehow, my filament size setting was changed from 1.75mm to 3mm. So, the picture in the first post is not a temperature or moisture issue, it is a massive under-extrusion issue.
-Matt
by
mappler
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Printing
Well, with my external Thermapen, the hot end is reading at least 7-10 degrees C too hot. This is with a calibrated cooking thermometer, but half of it is open to the air just being laid on the face of the hotend. So, I"m guessing something has gone wrong with my thermocouple in the hot end.
-Mat
by
mappler
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Printing
Is your 6 yr old grandson into minecraft at all? If so, you should have a look at this site:
-Matt
by
mappler
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General
That is fantastic! I hope they stay excited!
I've been thinking about one of those Roomba Create robots that you can hook to a Raspberry Pi or Arduino (or both I'm sure) to experiment with.
by
mappler
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General
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check the temperature issue. This could absolutely be the problem. When I was troubleshooting, I had an issue two times between prints when the firmware reported something like a "low temp error" on the hotend temperature and forced me to reset the printer. Given that the printer is indoors at "room temperature", that makes little or no sense. That could mea
by
mappler
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Printing
I have a Prusa I3 that I built 6 months ago. It was calibrated and working perfectly. I was printing quality parts the printer. Then, it sat for the last three months. Now, I'm ready to print some things again, and my printer won't print well. I have attached a picture of a partial print of 5mm Calibration Steps. As you can see, they are not looking good at all. Is this what happens with
by
mappler
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Printing
I have the same printer you have.
My X-Axis and Z-A-axis end stops are identical to yours.
The Y-Axis endstop I have placed a little further up the smooth rod to be triggered by the Y-Carriage itself, not the heated bed. There is another thread here in this forum where someone else has designed a better Y-Axis endstop for this printer. I haven't tried it yet, but that is on my list of things t
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
Have you looked into OctoPrint running on a Raspberry Pi? This solution requires no configuration other than setting up your WiFi. The image that is downloaded is ready to run with no other modifications. You require a Raspberry Pi, a power supply, a WiFi dongle, and an SD card to put the image on. Works great.
-Matt
by
mappler
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Reprappers
a) You will need stepper drivers.
b) The Arduino can't supply the amount of current you require directly through the Arduino board.
I'm sure there are many, many other issues as well, but these are big ones.
by
mappler
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General
My setup is not the same as yours, however, have you tried swapping the axis around to narrow down the problem? If you plug the X-Axis into the Z-Axis connection, does it work?
-Matt
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
Yes, you just have to turn OFF auto bed leveling. It should NOT have been turned on in the first place. They did not provide a configuration file that would have ever worked with their printer. I reported this to them, they confirmed it was an issue, and told me they would fix it. I'm not sure why they have not updated their website with the correct file.
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
I'd like to second everything Vegasloki said.
I have had great luck with my Prusa i3 kit from 3dPrinterCzar. All parts included and a popular design. $500-$600 gets you started.
-Matt
by
mappler
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General
I believe this is related to this setting here:
#define min_software_endstops false // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.
If I understand these settings correctly, this allows you to move the print head BELOW the position it homes to. I think it ignores
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
I'm glad it got you on the right track..
I'd experiment with both #1 and #2. Both seem likely to solve your problem to me.
-Matt
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
BTW, I reported this error to 3dPrinterCzar on May 4. They still have not fixed their Configuration.h file on their website.
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
BTW, I reported this error to 3dPrinterCzar on May 4. They still have not fixed their Configuration.h file on their website.
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
I had the same problem with mine. Did you happen to be using the 3DPrinterCzar Prusa i3 configuration.h file? It has "auto bed leveling" turned on, which causes homing to work differently.
For me, homing the Z-Axis individually worked fine. Using the "All-Home" command is the only portion that implemented the auto bed leveling logic and caused the extruder to hit the glass.
Another way to t
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
To troubleshoot your motors, get to a VERY basic configuration. Unplug power EVERY time before making any changes.
1) What is the status of your endstops? if your endstops are all triggered, this would cause all motors to refuse movement. If you send code M119, what does it return? This will tell you the status of all endstops.
2) Check all of your jumpers, particularly those under the
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
Your end stops should probably be set at the MIN position on all axis. If they are next to your motors, than this sounds like you are at the correct positions.
1) Check your hardware. The GCode command M119 is very helpful. It will tell you the current status of all endstops. You can MANUALLY trigger an endstop, send M119, and see that it is reported as pressed. If you do not get the corre
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
The #defined constants make no difference how you enter them. The calculation is there simply to allow you to think in mm/sec instead of mm/minute.
For stepper motors, torque and rpm is correlated, and is typically published with the specs for the stepper motor. It does look like to me from your video you have found a point on that curve experimentally..
by
mappler
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Reprappers
That looks fantastic. Would love to get that STL file and make the change to my printer as well.
-Matt
by
mappler
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Reprappers
Quotelucasmun09
P.S, I still need a Z axis right? Cause I would need to lift the pen or the writing utensil some how!
You can "cheat" on the Z-Axis initially and either a) don't support lifting the pen or b) make lifting and dropping a "binary" up or down condition.
-Matt
by
mappler
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Reprappers
Non sono sicuro di quale firmware si sta utilizzando. Ho avuto problemi quando ho bruciato un driver passo-passo con la mia scheda Arduino non funziona. Io parto dal presupposto che si sta utilizzando RAMPS 1.4 e Arduino. Provate il seguente:
1) Scollegare il vostro scudo RAMPS e cercano solo il collegamento al Arduino. Fa questo lavoro?
2) Se il punto 1 opere, quindi scollegare tutti i driver
by
mappler
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Problemi e qualità di stampa
As drmaestro suggests,I would recommend breaking this problem down to separate parts. It sounds like you already know that getting accurate, repeatable linear motion is going to be a problem. I think I would want to solve that problem before investing in the other portions of the project with less risk.
Perhaps start by building a 2-axis plotter? It would be much less effort to build a small
by
mappler
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Reprappers
You could order a single printed part from an online printing company like Shapeways or others.
Just upload the STL you want and they willl ship you the part.
by
mappler
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Reprappers
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