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Printing issues ...
Well a few issues, now it is solved. I got X, Y dimensions reasonably accurate, and both piece can snaps together.
1. mm/steps calibration was way off: I was extruding too fast so actually the filament wasn't pushed as far as commanded, and 30% error goes into the measurement. I remeasure with slower speed and also verifying the measurement with the retracting direction.
2. I thought my nozzle
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sam0737
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Printing
mm/steps calibration: I did that once. Maybe it's off, definitely something to look at again, as well as checking the filament diameter.
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sam0737
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Printing
Thanks for the info.
Maybe I should give a shot to Skeinforge too...but that means I have to go over all the settings again which I really hate.
Source code checkout'ed. I am on Windows but couldn't get all the dependency installed yet. Maybe my Strawberry Perl is too old (5.12) or something, I will be looking into it.
Mechanically I believe my machine is doing well, and so does my ABS filament
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sam0737
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Printing
If you can't extrude it down, try to retract for X-cm and see check if X-cm comes out ? At least you can get the Steps per mm correct. It's something hard to calculate - the chewing action and bolt diameter measurement together make the math difficult.
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sam0737
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General Mendel Topics
What's the diameter free extrusion size? (Extrude in the mid air, take a measurement)...
It looks like to me the lines on top aren't stacking, and/or not enough plastic were extruded...maybe you have a layer height too high (big) for your nozzle? in other words, the nozzle is not 0.5 but could be smaller?
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sam0737
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Printing
I am following the Calibration wiki but I couldn't get the perimeter block right. The STL file in the wiki cannot be sliced by Slic3r so I drew my own with the code below.
I got this - as attached, but I can't really tell what went wrong...I think I could use some help from the community
The print out is too big, and the slot is too small. The big block is supposed to be 30mm wide, and the slo
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sam0737
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Printing
Thanks for the tips.
I don't think it's the torque yet because it does spin. I agree it won't work well at high speed.
As it can print "something" now I hope I could print a new extruder with this, a Greg's Wade prehaps.
Though I need to gather the vitamins for it...
I hate the hobbed bolt because something as unspecified as that is very hard to communicated with the workshop. For instance, I do
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sam0737
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Printing
The flow is all calculated. Does the axis move correctly? Or the print out doesn't stick?
How big is your nozzle?
Load - I don't know as I am using dedicated supply...someone on the wiki said plugging an old CD Rom drive could get around it. I think as long as it's working there is no worries.
Measure the voltage while you have the heated bed on.
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sam0737
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Printing
I am not extruding at 225C, instead of 225C, which seems resolve the problem. But it probably need longer time to tell for sure.
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sam0737
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Printing
> Biggest problem I seem to have at the moment is that when I start the print job - it doesn't extrude. Manual extrusion works, but printing as a job doesn't.
If you set a bed temperature that it can't be achieved, then it will wait and stucked at the "set temp command" indefinitely. Set it lower.
> I'm assuming its one of the hundreds of Skeinforge settings (realized that I had to set t
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sam0737
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Printing
One more thing about the heated bed. Because it takes some time to heat up the glass, the temp you read (when the thermistor is sticked at the bottom) might not be the temp of the glass.
That's why I usually use manual control to heat that up, wait for a few minutes even when the target temp is reached, and start extruding.
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sam0737
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Printing
> How do you determine if it is stripping it?
I have with me, so it's easier to see.
Yes the extrusion is very very slow. Consider 3mm^2 (filament) over 0.5mm^2 (nozzle) is 36 times more. i.e. you push 1mm in and it will have 36mm out in theory. So it turns slowly.
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sam0737
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Printing
As I said, as long as you aren't crashing the head onto the bed, and do extrude at above the melting temperature, there is no harm and you won't hurt the machine in any way. I would say just go ahead and enjoy, with a few practices that's actually as easy as printing on 2D =)
> I take it this is a firmware table? Is there a tuning process outlined somewhere?
Yes it is. First you need to get
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sam0737
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Printing
It comes preassembled from the seller...a greenish one.
Oh. It also sells tape and luckily the label can be seen clearly:
It is "3M™ Polyester Tape 8992". Ok it's not PTFE. (I guess he messed up with the term somewhat)
It sticks so well without fail so far, and when cooled object can be removed by hand (I am still working with small object, not sure if it will pop up automagically or not). I
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sam0737
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Reprappers
84? It should be more than that. Or perhaps your reading is incorrect.
thermistor requires special table to convert its output to human reading, and different thermistor might has a little difference. Although the reading is actually very repeatable, but it might mean some other temperature. e.g. 84C you get might actually mean 95C, and it's 95C every time you read 84C. You need thermocouple or
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sam0737
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Printing
I am using this extruder: . Direct drive, hobbed insert. 3mm ABS filament.
I am printing at 220C and PTFE filmed heated bed at 90C, sticks well.
The problem is, sometimes the filament aren't going through well - I thing some filament were stripped. It is much better if manually apply some force to push it downward. Attached is the photo of the insert and the calibration object.
My feedrate is ra
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sam0737
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Printing
Report:
I had sugar solution (10g over 100ml) and it somewhat works at 100C on glass plate. Not very good, but at least get it going with calibration object.
My MK1 PCB heated bed can't go over 100C even at full power...maybe it works better at higher power. 90 or 95C offers no adhesive force at all with the same sugar solution.
Today I bought another glass plate with PTFE film on it. Now it sti
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sam0737
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Reprappers
Sorry - Kind of hijacking the thread...
I highly appreciate the effort you have put into this. 7 years ago when there was no iPhone I made a touch-screen remote control for my course project. While char-based LCD and graphical based LCD are kind of standard, I wouldn't know where to buy the touch screen. I was using a Palm replacement screen in my project.
To me, maybe it's even more fancy a
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sam0737
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I will also opt for mechanical endstop...piece of mind with the clicking sound. I used to have too much trouble with the optical switch, the sun and CFL will affect it.
Performance wise they are pretty much the same, mechanically limited.
If you have Arduino Mega available (like me - there are local Arduino Mega clone selling cheaply), I would suggest RAMPS structure. It offers more pins too so
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sam0737
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General
Janos Wrote:
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> ... without having to
> hire 2 programmers and a software engineer to
> rewrite it?
You are like saying can someone make a hotend without lathe and drill?
It probably just takes one software engineer to fix the compilation though.
Reprap as a whole is very experimental...
There are two sources of problems: Arduino s
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sam0737
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
If you notice "resend" message, make sure the baudrates match. I had 256k configured in the host but it's actually 250k on the chip - surprisingly it works, only until there is a lot of command everything break down.
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sam0737
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Reprappers
I believe all those size works well with 1.75 filament. Few people had tried to converted a 3mm J Head for 1.75mm filament though. For J Head you can't just swap the nozzle with the barrel because they are just one piece - Though, if I remember correctly, someone reported on the wiki that replacing the PTFE tube with a smaller inner diameter works.
Slicer: Slic3r is gaining popularity, there is
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sam0737
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General
SD card works on 3.3V, Arduino works on 5V. The adapter has an onboard regulator which converts 5V to 3.3V, but the signal has to be taken card.
C1, C2, C3, C4 and the 3 leg IC is the voltage regulator.
+3.3------MOSI---SD PIN 2
+3.3------SCK---SD PIN 5
+3.3------MISO---SD PIN 7
+3.3------SD PIN 8, 9 (Unused DAT1, DAT2 pin)
Normally they needed to be hooked to
MISO: Digital pin 50
MOSI: Digita
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sam0737
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RAMPS Electronics
Don't hook it up just YET. The voltage could kill your SD card.
I have just ordered exactly the same thing (BTW, it's from China Taobao), I have just figured what connected what.
There's a few thing needed to work out. I am typing that out in the next msg.
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sam0737
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RAMPS Electronics
I want to echo the idea of Z max end stop instead of min. (Plus for Marlin - mod the firmware such that it does Z first, instead of XY).
With the clips that clipping on the heated bed and glass, definitely the safest to raise the Z first, then moving the XY.
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sam0737
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General
> printing upside down
that's kind of crazy LOL
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sam0737
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General
bobc Wrote:
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> Have you tried
> ?
Exactly what I am looking for. Thanks a lot. Better train up my google-fu...
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sam0737
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General
Ribbon cable is really brillant! I recently rerouted my repstrap (converted from milling machine) with that too. My Z motor and E stop sit on the carriage like most desktop milling machine does, a 18-way cable makes routing a pleasurable experience. Thanks nophead for the idea.
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sam0737
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General
More important you need to get make the of the bed parallel to the x, y-axis, so that there is no height difference when the head goes from bottom left to upper right, or everywhere.
Leveling of the machine isn't that important.
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sam0737
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General
Alright. At least I got E working now - short answer: wrong pin configuration.
It's nophead last post ring the bell - i just noticed the DIR is actually reading 4.5V, not exactly 5V. I take the header off, and it's still 4.5V in the open - sounds like the pin mode wasn't set to output but left at the default input mode + no pullup. I added some debug message to verified that the mode was indeed s
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sam0737
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Firmware - mainstream and related support