Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 2 of 2
Pages: 12
Results 31 — 56 of 56
I'm trying to slice a moderately complex model (not your simple cube, but not very complex either).
Its size is 83.13 x 66.50 x 89.33, and Slic3r says it has 95594 facets (1 shells) with 194 auto repaired manifold errors.
I started saving the G-code for this model ~30 minutes ago, and the progress bar is stuck at around 85%. It's been there for most of those 30 minutes. Task manager says Slic3r
by
barakori
-
Slic3r
Tried to simplify the case here, so I printed a 25x25mm cube, and stopped the print just before it finished the 2nd layer. Here's what I got:
Each layer has 3 perimeters. They seem fine. Using a caliber, the 3 perimeters are 1.2mm wide, and that matches the print setting for 0.4mm width (Slic3r 1.1.7)
The diagonal lines in the picture look like wide lines with gaps. Actually each diagonal line
by
barakori
-
Printing
Thanks for the comments.
I checked the extruder, and extruding 100mm at 30mm/min resulted in 97mm of actual extruded filament. While this is not perfectly calibrated, it seems to be close enough not to be that bad.
I'm currently printing at 40mm/s (normal speed) with PLA at 185C hotend and 60C hotbed.
My retraction settings are 4.5mm at 30 mm/sec.
@ggherbaz, what retraction / speed / temp do yo
by
barakori
-
Printing
I'm not sure what sliced preview means, but if you save the G-code and open in in anything that can show you the G-code, you should see the support.
E.g. if you print using pronterface, you can look at the G-code there. There are also websites that can show you how the G-code looks like. Google is your friend.
Cheers.
by
barakori
-
Printing
I'm trying to print a part that has some solid surfaces a bit above the ramp. Here's what should be printed at 3.60mm (taken from the Gcode view in pronterface):
In reality I got something that's not solid at all (I'm mostly talking about the middle part):
Notice that the two solid parts on the sides are better (but not great), and instead of a solid middle section, I got really thin strips
by
barakori
-
Printing
Is it possible that things are cooling down too fast without cooling?
I'm not using a fan at all.
by
barakori
-
Printing
I'm trying to print Star Lord's mask based on the STLs provided in http://www.therpf.com/f78/star-lord-helmet-accessories-helagak-208660/
I started with the face mask part. Here's the part (left hand side) and the way it should be printed with support material (right hand side):
Notice there are two "pillars" that are supposed to support the top left and top right tips of the mask. The right h
by
barakori
-
Printing
@Ulakn, thanks. That's was a real great pointer.
To sum things up, I looked at the screenshot, and realized that based on "Write an event to the system log", I can probably look for that event.
I ran the event viewer (e.g. in Win7 hit start and type "event viewer"). I chose the Windows Logs / System and searched for errors.
There's a BugCheck at 3:27 AM:
The computer has rebooted from a bugche
by
barakori
-
Printing
Over the last couple of months, I had 3 incidents where I tried to print a long print (10+ hours) overnight.
When I came in the morning, I saw the printing stopped at some point, and my computer rebooted. After logging in, I got the message in the title.
I'm printing using pronterface. The first time this happened, I thought it may have just been a coincidence (and something else caused the mach
by
barakori
-
Printing
@ffherbaz - thanks for the info. I looked up "infill to perimeter overlap", and it seems like it's a Skeinforge option.
Anyone knows if there's an equivalent option in slic3r?
Don't want to add another tool to my chain at the moment. This only increases the chances of something going wrong...
Thanks.
by
barakori
-
Printing
An alternative approach is to adjust your Z level to be exactly accurate and then print without modifying Z at all.
You can do whatever you want (e.g. lower the head until the Z endstop is reached, then adjust Z manually). Once everything is ready start printing with no need to pause during the print.
I'm using pronterface, but I assume the process is similar.
Note that you will need to modify
by
barakori
-
Printing
I assume there's some elasticity in all extruders (although probably more in a Bowden extruder), but I'm really not an expert.
My printer has a "Greg's Hinged Extruder" - nothing too fancy.
by
barakori
-
Printing
I'm trying to get my top layer to be as smooth as possible.
For starters, I printed a 40mm x 40mm x 1mm cube to see how the top layer looks like. Here's the result:
(please ignore the distorted X/Y angle - this was shot through a magnifying glass)
The top layer is not smooth. There are diagonal gaps and some raised plastics (looks like stitching) where the diagonal top fill touches the perimet
by
barakori
-
Printing
Thanks for all the tips. For completeness, here's what I did (based on the tips, and the print was indeed a lot better):
I had "Avoid crossing perimeter" set (in layers and perimeters), and "Only retract when crossing perimeter" also set (in Infill). I unchecked both. Before that, the print head ran all around the piece from place to place (to not cross perimeter), and coupled with not retractin
by
barakori
-
Printing
I'm trying to print a small knob for my kitchen oven. It's basically a hollow cylinder, something like this:
I'm printing with PLA @ 190C hotend and 60C bed. The end result has a lot of inaccuracies:
This looks like there's extra melted PLA, which might be a symptom of too high temperature, but 190C is on the lower range of PLA printing.
Also, note that the top part, which is just a hollow cy
by
barakori
-
Printing
Thanks for all the responses.
To sum up, I tried printing with the hotbed at 60C and it sticks great. Don't have any sticking / wrapping issue at this point.
The outer rim is "dotted" because initially, I think there's not enough material in the hotend chamber. While I wait for the hotend to reach 195C, a lot of filament is dropped, so by the time I start printing, there needs to be some extra p
by
barakori
-
Printing
Thanks for the reply.
I'm adjusting the nozzle height to be very close to the bed - the height of normal paper, which is less than a business card.
For ABS I used 110C, but for PLA it's 80C - I'm using the default configuration that was provided by the company who sold me the kit (makerfarm).
Note that it seemed like the first layer stuck really well. The second layer printed fine, third also, e
by
barakori
-
Printing
I've printed ABS in the past (with mixed to good results, really depending on the model), and now I decided to try to print using PLA.
I cleaned the head, ran 50 mm of PLA through it and checked that X, Y, Z and E are calibrated.
As a first print, I tried a 25 mm cube, and at z = 2.25 mm, the cube just detached from the heated bed. The result bottom part was also wrapped at the bottom (a slight
by
barakori
-
Printing
Thanks jbernardis,
Great info. Here's how my Z endstop is built:
The X-idler has an adjustable screw on it (red arrow) that hits a switch mounted in a fixed location
on the side of the printer frame (blue arrow).
The switch is mounted on the side using a small cable tie that goes through the two holes in the switch.
The same method is used for the X and Y endstops.
The X and Y switches seem
by
barakori
-
Printing
The following image shows two prints of the same gcode, done one day apart:
I didn't do anything special between the two days. Maybe took out the glass plate and cleaned it up.
What could cause the excess lines on the right print (done first) that could change so much one day later?
Also, I printed another similar part and it came fine, when I tried to print the same part 10 minutes later
(w
by
barakori
-
Printing
Hi,
Trying to print the Hinged Treasure Chest with Latch from
I'm printing with ABS @ 225c / 110c with hairspray and (at least in this time), have no issue with curling
at the bed level.
The problem is that curling happens above (e.g. at z = 1cm), which causes layers split. This looks like
cracks in the final print. Here's how it looks like:
Front view:
Side view:
How do I prevent this
by
barakori
-
Printing
I'm really not an expert, but it looks like on the lower layers the printer is pushing too much plastic, so it becomes somewhat wider.
I'd try 2 things:
1. Try to print a walled cube - just 4 walls - you'll get to see the bottom anomaly better (if there is one).
2. Try to print with a raft. This way the anomaly might be all in the raft (but usually a raft is only 2 lays or so).
Regardin the top
by
barakori
-
Printing
As long as I print large parts (where every slice is, e.g. at least 5mm x 5mm) my Prusa i3 produces what looks to be very accurate models.
When I try to print small parts, there's a lot of jitter and inaccuracy in the printed model.
For example, this was sliced using Cura with 30mm/sec speed and 1mm retraction (30mm/sec retraction speed as well):
The widest square tower (rightmost at the top
by
barakori
-
Reprappers
Thanks for all the information.
Are there good test shapes that can be used to check for flow and other calibrations?
I think that the flow is generally right (except maybe for the 1st layer multiplier). In 0002.jpg above, the big chunk
on the left came out well. It's only the small parts that don't come out well. Could it be that as long as the flow keeps
coming, everything is well, but just d
by
barakori
-
Slic3r
Thanks for the information. Now this all makes sense.
Sadly, now I need to look for another reason why the print for this model came out really bad.
I saw two main things. First, in this picture which is a bit out of focus:
Some printed stuff is as sparse as the support (I drew a sketch of what should have been printed, and what's support on the right hand side).
Second, the front of the por
by
barakori
-
Slic3r
I tried to slice balcony2.stl from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215585/#files.
I'm using slic3r 0.9.9 because I only have config files for this version (tried 1.0.1 with the same config files, and result were not good).
My first layer is set to 0.35 height, and the rest to 0.25.
I used Pronterface to look at the result gcode, and I seem to be getting too many layers (think of it as sub-laye
by
barakori
-
Slic3r
Page 2 of 2
Pages: 12