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NelsonRap Wrote:
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> It's to try and stop a blob forming on top of my
> prints ruining the surface.
>
> At the end of the day when I turn the printer off
> I extrude a bit of filament to stop the problems
> you have outlined
I raise Z by 1 MM, and then home X and Y to prevent the "All Done..." blob.
by
raldrich
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Skeinforge
It's a good idea, but you might also need a small retraction of the filament at the beginning of the slow section, and a small advance at the end of the slow section, to combat the change in filament hysteresis.
by
raldrich
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Skeinforge
Jarmol Wrote:
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> I made it. Managed to connect my printer to
> repsnapper... but... my axes are still moving very
> weirdly.
>
> For example I push "+1" button in repsnapper
> controls. Extruder moves a little bit left. Then I
> push that same button again and it goes right! All
> of the axes seem like they are not mo
by
raldrich
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RAMPS Electronics
I'm really not sure what "Restart Extra distance" is for, except to make blobs
by
raldrich
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General Mendel Topics
Looking at your print, I'd guess that one or more of the following are true.
1) Your maximum Z speed is lower than you'd like, so the extruder is pausing for a fair amount of time when the Z moves.
2) Your extrusion temperature is too low, so that pressures in the extruder are running too high, and things are "catching up" during the Z move, or
3) Your extrusion temperature is too high, so that
by
raldrich
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General Mendel Topics
My X-Carriage is PLA, and I have no trouble printing ABS with it - on a heated bed, with or without a cooling fan.
I did however, have a lot of trouble with the PLA extruder, when I was using Generation 3 electronics to run it - It's very difficult to get enough torque out of the extruder stepper when using the Gen 3 stepper hack, without your motor getting hot. Since upgrading to RAMPS/Pololu
by
raldrich
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General Mendel Topics
The biggest trouble that people have had with the "do it yourself" filament extruders is keeping the filament diameter consistent. As filament is drawn from the extruder, it will be stretched in varying amounts according to the pressure inside the extruder, the extruder's temperature, and how much tension there is on the uptake. Professional extruders deal with this by drawing the filament thro
by
raldrich
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I had a similar problem with my Z axis, until I reduced the Z feed rate limit.
Sprinter's defaults work well for a finely tuned printer, but not so well for one that's still being tuned.
by
raldrich
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RAMPS Electronics
The only difference between the Y and Z axis on Ramps 1.3 is that the Z axis has 2 motor connectors wired in parallel. You'll have to assemble a splitter, but other than that, running 2 motors on the Y axis would work just fine.
You also could just edit Pins.h, and swap the Y and Z axis pins around.
by
raldrich
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RAMPS Electronics
Normally, I'd have suggested ultimachine for RAMPS, but they've been out of stock for at least a couple of weeks. I'd think your best bet would be to ask in the #reprap IRC.
Or, buy one from jcraber :-)
by
raldrich
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General Mendel Topics
electrodruid Wrote:
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> Can anyone with a working Techzone LC Mendel with
> the new Z axis design show or tell me how they got
> the pulleys positioned so that the belt won't snag
> on the wooden parts?
There need to be spacers between the large pulleys and the z-axis bearings. I'm not sure where I encountered it, but that was o
by
raldrich
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General Mendel Topics
EtherDais Wrote:
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> This is something that might need to be addressed
> on the Wiki regarding the Techzone LC Mendel: It
> keeps evolving as they often incorporate newer
> redesigns into their process. I've noticed
> several examples of this, but haven't had a chance
> to really fix up any documentation.
>
> -The
by
raldrich
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General Mendel Topics
I'm still running Techzone's wooden extruder, but have long since replaced the hot end with MakerGear's.
I did have to modify the TechZone assembly quite a bit in order to make it compatible with MakerGear - if you have the option of printing a new extruder, Greg's Wade should be more compatible.
Also, I understand that CdnReprap sells a well constructed hot end.
by
raldrich
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
From earlier discussions, I recall that there were serious issues with some of the chinese filament suppliers - moisture, impurities and filament diameter were all concerns. It looks as though at least one manufacturer is determined to sort out those problems.
by
raldrich
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
I found that Scotch Super 77 spray adhesive worked pretty well, when sprayed onto blue painter's tape and allowed to dry, but it did make quite a challenge of removing the print.
by
raldrich
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Double-check your baud rate - by default, Sprinter uses 115200 baud.
by
raldrich
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RAMPS Electronics
Tonokip is an old, no longer maintained version of Sprinter - you should either start with Sprinter, or with the 5D firmware from sourceforge/reprap.
by
raldrich
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Next Wave Electronics Working Group
The nozzle in your picture looks a lot like the one that TechZone sells - theirs is made from 7mm brass rod, and has a standard 7mm thread.
by
raldrich
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Well, for the next person who needs to know this:
#define E1_STEP_PIN 36
#define E1_DIR_PIN 34
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30
by
raldrich
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RAMPS Electronics
It appears that my Z motor controller connector has failed (z motor works when connected to a different axis - z pololu works when moved to a different axis), so I'm trying to move Z over to the E1 connector.
My problem is, I can't figure out what the pins for E1 are.
I'm looking for pin definitions for sprinter/tonokip, rather than for teacup, assuming there's a difference.
#define E1_STEP_P
by
raldrich
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RAMPS Electronics
rhmorrison Wrote:
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> You mean something like THIS?
That's an interesting location for it, but it seems like you'd have to be very careful with your carriage design to avoid conflicts there.
Personally, I'm considering the area directly above the motor, between the motor and the filament, but since I'm currently using Greg's Wade as a sta
by
raldrich
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
The issues I've had with existing designs:
1) Access to the mounting screws - Wade's design buries the mounting screws under the motor and filament clamp, which makes it necessary to disassemble the extruder in order to remove it from the carriage. With my own (Techzone) printer, this problem is compounded by the design of the carriage, which put the mounting holes directly over the carriage ro
by
raldrich
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
One set of wires should be plenty for 5 amps. If you end up adding a heated bed, you'll probably want fatter wires for that circuit, otherwise it'll take forever to heat up.
by
raldrich
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General Mendel Topics
You might want to give repsnapper a try - the original host software was nothing but trouble for me.
by
raldrich
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General Mendel Topics
It looks to me like you're z-axis belt is sized for the old arrangement, where there was an adjustment idler on the side opposite the motor.
I'd say you should contact TechZone, and ask them to send you the proper belt.
by
raldrich
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General Mendel Topics
Those are the same parts that I received.
The X axis ends are different in that the belt only goes around 2 bearings at the motor end, and doesn't wind as tightly around the motor as it did with the older version. This helps to relieve some of the stress on the belt so that it lasts longer.
The Z axis no longer has a separate idler for adjusting belt tension, but instead the tension is adjuste
by
raldrich
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General Mendel Topics
QuoteI admit that there are potential issues with the idea in general so Im not expecting anyone to jump on the bandwagon, this is more of a project im working on personaly and am interested in any feedback I can get from the community.
Actually, it doesn't seem like you're interested in feedback. None of the points I brought up were arguing the morality of copy protection, but are instead issu
by
raldrich
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Polymer Working Group
VDX Wrote:
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> ... or add extra thermoelectric coolers, which
> will cool the filament feeder and add heat to the
> chamber
You had me thinking about design a Peltier cooled hot end, until I saw that they break down if the hot side goes above 85c
by
raldrich
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Mechanics
QuoteWhat I mean is a company that has the kits with good print results... putting a kit together is not the issue.. just the end results are.. its all in the extruder/motors/software...
The end results are all about how good you are at putting the kit together. I guarantee that if I were to buy a second TechZone Mendel and assemble it, I'd be getting better prints out of the gate on the second
by
raldrich
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General