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The commit comments say that it is to move the leadscrew nuts to the top, to reduce how much the lead screw wobbles around. I guess it's particularly noticeable when the z axis is close to the bed.
by
Lenbok
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Mendel90
Did you put any feedback on the site?
Ahhh China... nothing like leaving even the most basic testing/QA to the end users!
by
Lenbok
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
I figured I should post a couple of pics now that my Mendel90 is up and running. I'm using it with a RUMBA kit I got during their kickstarter, it's a very nice board and is supported by current Marlin. I can send/post my Configuration.h for anyone interested. For a power supply I'm using this one from dealextreme that has adjustable output voltage. I've got it cranked up to 14.5V and the hot end
by
Lenbok
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
I'm also finishing my Mendel90 with rumba electronics.
It shouldn't be too hard to print an enclosure that sits nicely at the top right where isolt has his:
isolts Mendel90
Cheers,
Len.
by
Lenbok
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Mendel90
nophead Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The source and manual have to match the kits I
> produce and changing things takes time and effort
> so I don't accept pull requests unless they have
> some advantage to the kits I produce. I can print
> those two at a time reliably without them lifting,
> whereas I did have about a 10% reject rate on the
&
by
Lenbok
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Mendel90
nophead Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Going forward I am using much more flexible belt
> and I have re-designed the X-ends to have much
> stronger clamps that don't break when fully closed
> because the plastic is only under compression. I
> am also experimenting with different Z couplings.
> Also the motor is no longer enclosed so only the
>
by
Lenbok
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Mendel90
I've looked at a couple of these sites wondering if there's a nice alternative to thingiverse.
I looked at fabster.com and initially had the same problem of "where are the stl models / download links". With the separate physibles/products/software/3d printers sections it feels more like a shopping mall than a community wanting to share models. Clicking on the physibles link to narrow things down
by
Lenbok
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General
What surface are you printing onto? I print my PLA straight onto glass mirror tile (with a heated bed), and it doesn't give me any warping problems. ABS is a different story though. I find that ABS is more tricky when the ambient temperature is lower, so maybe that's contributing to making even PLA hard for Dunedinites :-).
Maybe try a test where you put a corrugated cardboard box around the pr
by
Lenbok
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
In terms of a dual extruder design, I really like this concept to prevent the inactive extruder from oozing:
(It's a little like nophead's unattended ooze-free start)
I'm sure something along those lines could be worked onto the Mendel90 (You could even use bowdens if you really wanted to keep the mass down)
by
Lenbok
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Mendel90
Hi,
I ported this code to Java so it can more easily run on Linux / MacOS etc. It also runs without a GUI so it can be plugged into slic3r as a postprocessing script for automatic execution when you slice. I have attached an executable Jarfile (which also contains the src etc), and the code is also in github at: (see there for the README)
by
Lenbok
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Skeinforge
I've just printed two sets of mendel90 parts and of all the parts, that x-motor-bracket was by far the most difficult to print - and in the end there was still quite a lot of warping of the end "protected" by the shells. It will need a bit of dremelling and drilling a new motor mounting hole in the correct place in order to get a usable part. The other part that gave me a lot of bother was the x-
by
Lenbok
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Mendel90
Yep, confirming I'm in. I got the payment info in your PM, will do it soon.
I'll be using RUMBA electronics, so would prefer if we drill our own electronics mounting holes.
I currrently use an external spooling system, which I will probably stick with for now anyway. Presumably it only affects holes for spool bracket mount and the printed parts for the spool holder itself. The rest of the print
by
Lenbok
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
BTW you should make a pull request containing the information for the GT2 belts and pullies so nophead can integrate them into the main repository. I am sure it will be useful to plenty of other people.
by
Lenbok
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Mendel90
If you haven't ordered yet, I'd be keen on a set of the dibond parts too. Red sounds dead sexy :-). I'm also near Hamilton, and have been gradually accumulating the parts for a Mendel 90 to replace my venerable Sells Mendel.Mostly there, just remains to sort out the fasteners and GT2 belts/pulleys (working on that with a friend who's doing a Rostock at the moment).
Cheers,
Len
by
Lenbok
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
Did you also make an update for GT2 pulleys as well as the belt? - they're defined in pullies.scad but I'm not sure what the numbers should be.
by
Lenbok
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Mendel90
rhmorrison Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> No speculation is required - it is because you are
> using ABSOLUTE extrusion!
>
> G92 E0 sets the ZERO for the extursion, i.e.
> EXTRUDED = 0mm.
>
> M92 Ennn e.g. nnn = 100 says to extrude to 100mm.
> EXTRUDED = 100mm.
No, it doesn't. M92 is to set the axis steps per unit (which is what we are
by
Lenbok
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General
I just tried to do this extruder calibration a couple of nights ago using M92 Ennn commands to Marlin through pronterface.
Initially I got garbage calibration results, with sometimes way too much filament extruding, and sometimes way too little extruding.
I then repeated the calibration, this time issuing a G92 E0 after each M92 command. Calibration proceeded exactly as expected.
I won't even
by
Lenbok
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General
Yes, totally - Jordan Miller has been printing in sugar for making blood vessels etc:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26343
by
Lenbok
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
Just wondering why it seems like people are all over the MendelMax but hardly anyone is building the Mendel90 yet. The Mendel90 is super sturdy, trivial to scale in any axis, the build volume is an actual cube (rather than having to take into account how the extruder on a Mendel will whack into the frame at various points above a certain heights). I have a Sells Mendel and don't see the point in
by
Lenbok
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
For the FTDI cable, you can go the all-in-one cable that Dust linked to, or use a breakout like this:
Which will mean you can plug your cupcake in with a standard mini-USB cable.
If your cupcake is an unfinished original kit you'll want to plan some upgrades over time.
- First thing (which may be unplanned) is that the old MK4 extruder had a tendency to develop a leak around the PTFE barrie
by
Lenbok
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
BTW - Ultimaker uses 3mm filament, not 1.75mm.
by
Lenbok
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General
If most of your changes are just to the reprap5d driver, you should submit the changes back to makerbot to get them into the "official" distribution. It's understandable that without input the driver would suffer bitrot while MBI are developing but lack the resources (or motivation) to keep the reprap5d driver up to date themselves, but it shouldn't be hard for someone from the reprap community t
by
Lenbok
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Skeinforge
This is the axial thermistor I've been using for the last couple of years and have had no problems. 5% tolerance too.
HONEYWELL S&C / FENWALL - 135-104LAF-J01 - NTC Thermistor
Cheers,
Len.
by
Lenbok
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General
Trying to reduce the stretching was my motivation for printing the one with 0.35mm layer height 0.35mm layer width since that should be a pretty close match to the no-stretch scenario for my 0.35mm nozzle. I haven't done the calculations though, and will have another go after applying some math.
I was surprised at how little difference there was in terms of the curl effect over the very wide ra
by
Lenbok
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Printing
I have problems printing any shapes that involve convex overhanging perimeters -- the perimeter thread curls up, and in areas of persistent overhang the amount of curl accumulates each layer. Eventually it curls so much that a subsequent layer will go completely outside of the folded up section and things potentially start over. One model I experienced this with was the pink panther woman, where
by
Lenbok
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Printing
Here is one pretty large reprap that is at the printing stage:
The build volume is: 1000x1000x1700mm, whatever that is in quotation mark units ;-)
by
Lenbok
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General
Here is a picture showing before and after the left rod adjustment (both 0.2mm layers, W/T is 2.2 and 1.8):
Before/after left z-rod adjustment
The right hand print does have a new issue with the piece getting shorter in the x axis throughout the print, but that just looks like something causing increasing x axis backlash (probably something not properly tightened after reassembling things), the
by
Lenbok
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General
Well, I'd say that nophead called it.
I noticed that it was possible to wiggle the right z-rod slightly within the captive nut (suggesting the nut was nice and square) but the left one didn't have such play, so I figured maybe it was a bit skew somehow causing the problem. So I dismantled the left x-vert-drive-nut-trap. With that out it was possible to freely spin the z-rod in the bearing, at wh
by
Lenbok
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General
gen3 does half-stepping I believe. I'm slicing with skeinforge. I just inspected the Z values and they look good - all incrementing by the expected amount:
$ grep ^"G1 X" zwobbletest.rrv5.gcode | awk '{print $4}' | uniq -c
721 Z0.18
715 Z0.38
717 Z0.58
369 Z0.78
369 Z0.98
369 Z1.18
369 Z1.38
369 Z1.58
369 Z1.78
369 Z1.98
369 Z2.18
369 Z2.38
369
by
Lenbok
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General
So, I did an experiment where I printed a bar that was 180mm in X axis. The rightmost end of the bar is 80mm from the right Z leadscrew and 260mm from the left leadscrew, so any wave at that end would be dominated by the right leadscrew. Similarly, the other end of the bar would be dominated by any wave induced by the left leadscrew. Potentially each leadscrew could induce its own wave and they m
by
Lenbok
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General
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Pages: 123