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Hey all,
Just had to reinstall my printer after a laptop meltdown, grrrr, and am having a problem with my pronterface setting the temp of 200 on the hotend regardless of my setting in sli3er.
I have changed the setting in sli3er to 230 and it is the same when i close and reopen the program but when I click print, it reduces to 200 and tries to print at which point I shut down the print job.
It
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gregted
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Reprappers
Hey Franklin.
Definitely abs. Pla would be a soup at 270. I've used pla in the past and it sticks no worries. Also pla prints with a shiny finish but thanks for the reply.
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gregted
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Reprappers
Just found a bom if anyone else is looking.
1 x Print - Plastic Body V2 Extruder
1 x Print - Gear and drive set (small gear, medium gear, large gear, idler block, syringe pressure block
1 x NEMA17 motor
1 x T5 10teeth Metal drive Gear (you could print one of these)
4 x 624 Bearings
1 x 608 bearing
1 x 20mm M8 Smooth rod
1 x 55mm M4 Bolt
1 x 75mm M4 bar or bolt
1 x M4 Hex spacer (or M4 wingnut)
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gregted
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Reprappers
Can't seem to get my prints to stick to my mirror with abs juice no matter what I do.
I tried a smooth surface, I tried roughing it up with a grinder, I tried many mixes of abs and acetone but the fumes are getting out of control so I tried the blue painters tape on the ground mirror and then scrape finger mails in all directions to smooth out any tiny bubbles and the prints stick so well, I hav
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gregted
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Reprappers
Currently printing out the universal paste extruder by Richrap and can't find a bom for bolts, bearings etc.
I can work out some of the stuff but would be good to have a list to take shopping.
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gregted
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Reprappers
Hey Tuna.
Nice print.
When I am trying something different , I do a quick slice to a flash disk and then change the output file name to reflect the alterations made.
Eg. Cube20 for a test cube at 20/ sec.
Or cube20_point1retract_10_jnfill. gcode
This would reflect a test cube at 20mm/sec with 0.1 retract and infill of 10%.
Makes it a snap to remember settings used.
Greg
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gregted
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Look what I made!
Thanks for the advice.
I also just upgraded my version of slic3r. Like the new look.
Your settings work perfectly.
Now I just have to stop large prints lifting on the extremities and I'll be right.
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gregted
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Reprappers
I have my RepRap running from my sd card but am thinking of going one step further and installing an LCD screen and going totally portable for demos etc.
I am running sanguinololo 1.3 and obviously an sd card reader.
Is there a link to this somewhere.
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gregted
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Reprappers
Interesting thread.
I also have trouble with large prints lifting at the corners and warping.
I have been using blue painters tape but the tape lifts with the print.
Have tried glass cleaner but the prints don't stick so will have to try the bed temp a bit higher than 110.
What is the gcode needed to drop the bed temp to 80.
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gregted
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General
Getting some really nice prints having gone back to basics and rechecked all callibrations but now I am noticing threads whenever the print head travels to a new print position so was wondering what retract settings everybody uses.
Tried 5mm retract on a 20mm test cube but the print turned out worse as the print head stopped on the corner as it retracted and left more melted abs when it stopped.
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gregted
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Reprappers
Hey all,
Dragged my reprap out of storage for some more more building, maybe a folding reprap and would like to hear your progress on your builds.
Mal at Withcott, how did your build go.
Thejollygrimreaper, how is your printer coming along?
Greg
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gregted
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Australia, Toowoomba RepRap User Group
Avrdude is a communication error which according to the arduino site could be anything which is of no help.
I had the same error the other night while trying to update my settings. I have had no problems before.
When you are updating or just connecting do the following. It worked for me.
Open Arduino and then sprinter.pde, change settings to suit and click save.
Hold down the reset button on
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gregted
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Reprappers
The level of the bed is not as important as the relation of the print head to the bed. By this I mean, set your z stop to about 4 sheets of paper between the tip and bed in the center.
Unsure all motors are off and move the tip and bed to front left. If the tip digs in or moves up from the paper, readjust levelling screw at that point and do the same on all 4 corners and then check the center a
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gregted
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Reprappers
Very nice looking cube you have there. Good work after such a small amount of wasted plastic.
I use blue painters tape and can adjust the amount of adhesion to a point.
I lay the tape on my glass and then run my fingertips over the tape in all directions to remove small air bubbles and this also helps to rough up the tape a bit. As you do this you will see the tape sticking better.
This works
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gregted
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Reprappers
I had the same issue at the start and found the settings as did you.
Another bit of info i discovered is that if you set the temp in sli3er to zero, you can set any temp you desire on the pronterface screen to suit the material, (abs or pla and different suppliers of either ) , or ambient temp etc, without having to go back into sli3er each time.
These settings can be adjusted after the print
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gregted
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Reprappers
I agree. I use sprinter and I have 2 computers set up, one on com 5 as yours and one on com 4. When setting up my second computer, I had the same error as yours. I found I had the baud rate set to 250000 as standard.
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gregted
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Reprappers
I would also follow sublimes advice on the amount of extruded filament. I achieved a much better print when I started lowering the settings for the filament. I started at 1500 and wound up at 800. The small hole in the small herringbone gear for the extruder was my guide. The first print had the top hole and the small 3mm hole almost completly closed and the last has a perfect hexagon on the 3mm
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gregted
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Reprappers
I have had similar problems with weather causing the prints to lift on the corners due to the lower temps here ( Australia ) at this time of the year.
The problem is the cooler air moving past the edges of the print as the bed moves in the y axis direction. I have fixed this on some prints by rotating the print in sli3er to have the wider side of the print along the y axis and some prints work b
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gregted
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Reprappers
Mine is just 10mm ply. The size of only 225 x 225 makes it easy to get a fairly flat piece and the heated circuit board and the glass on top also helps to flatten it all out.
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gregted
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Reprappers
I don't know why the settings are different but these work so well, I won't change them.
Could be slightly different settings on the ramps, more or less resistance in one of the motors, or just the murphy effect.
( Things go wrong for no reason )
A multivibrator circuit ( railway signals ) work only because one part of the circuit has more resistance than the other. No two parts are perfectly
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gregted
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Reprappers
You definitely need to look at your thermistor wires. If they are touching each other or the hot end body, you will get a short.
I cemented my resistor into the hot end with muffler putty and then wrapped the leads with kapton tape to keep them separate.
The thermistor leads were also wrapped individually. I did this by ensuring the leads were separate and then placing a piece of tape between t
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gregted
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Reprappers
Don't be too concerned about the x and y being different values.
My current values are as per the pic and x and y are different and printing fine.
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gregted
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Reprappers
Even after the settings move at the desired rate, you still have to tweek the settings to get the desired print.
For some reason the measured settings don't relate to actual size.
I set mine as you have done and changed settings many times after printing started to get my best result.
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gregted
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Reprappers
Hey Gary,
I had a similar problem a while ago and found that the y and x belt were rubbing on the fender washer at the idler and were binding.
I put a bolt just below the belt at the idler end with a fender washer and electrical tape to keep the belt in the center of my idler bearing and no further problems.
I have also started printing from sd card and had no dramas so far. The one thing I fo
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gregted
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Reprappers
I now print with the bead not quite a smear but definitely a very flattened track.
The way I have gotten my prints to stick lately is to lay blue painters tape and run over it with my finger nails in all directions to flatten out all bubbles and rough it up.
This has the prints sticking so well, that I have to replace the tape after some prints as the tape rips off when I remove the print.
I h
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gregted
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Reprappers
Hey Jim,
Yeah, that's what I have decided to do also But I gotta wonder how many others have had problems with print quality just because of their computer feed.
Lucky I decided to start this journey on the fast computer.
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gregted
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Reprappers
Just had a " Well, that's interesting, moment"
I set up my old tower computer to run my prusa and coppied the settings from the laptop.
All settings are identical and I haven't changed anything on the sprinter settings.
I used the same printer to pc cable but the print from the old tower was skipping steps on the Y axis so I changed the cable back to the laptop and the prints are coming out fi
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gregted
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Reprappers
Hay all,
Great to here form other reprappers in the area.
My Prusa I've called Woody is printing great.
I have designed some things on Thingiverse under Gregted and modified others.
The one thing that has saved my sanity is my z stop adjuster.
Love to come down to either Warwick or Murphys Creek for a look at your setup and if you are in the Gowrie Junction/Toowoomba area drop me a line and
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gregted
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Australia, Toowoomba RepRap User Group
Hi AJ,
It looks like the print is tapering in as it gets higher. This is what I was talking about earlier concerning the alignment of your guide bars on the z axis.
If the Z guide bars are wider at the bottom than the top, the print head will follow this line and print inwards as it raises.
This in turn will allow your y belt to become looser as the distance between the z axis becomes shorter
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gregted
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Reprappers
Great news AJ,
Looking forward to seeing your improved print photo.
What I did when calibrating was print a 20mm cube and then write on the side or bottom of the cube the settings in sprinter.pde. Also write the direction of the print as in < x > on the x direction side and < Y > on the y direction side etc..
Then i would change these and repeat.
It is a good way to compare the d
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gregted
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Reprappers
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Pages: 12345