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I'm doing some testing on Sanguish to track down some interference on the serial line and while getting some baseline values I found that above 38400 baud rate the time to upload files to an SD card doesn't change. So I guess I have two questions.
1. Is there a setting somewhere to speed up SD writes, or is it limited by some other process?
2. What is the best way to test serial comms reliabil
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bryanandaimee
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Repetier
So manual changes to configuration.h settiings no longer get built into the firmware when you compile in Arduino?
I'm a little handicapped because my 3d printer box is down in the basement with no internet access, so if I have to go to the website to make changes to the configuration file it will make things quite a bit more difficult for me. I'll have to put the config file on a thumb drive, up
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bryanandaimee
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Repetier
If it's been modded with a stepper extruder I would guess the answer is yes. If not I doubt most firmware/software support DC extruders any more.
Bryan
by
bryanandaimee
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Repetier
Sanguish 1.1 is out! I just sold a few and ran out of a couple of components so I won't have more kits to sell for a few days. The design is still either/or for USB-Serial. If you install the MCP2200 on board usb-serial converter then your external usb-serial cables likely won't work even though the header is available. So if you are planning on using some combination of cable or bluetooth(untest
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
I'm on a bit of a break lately but I'm still puttering along slowly. The latest puzzle is the interference from the MCP 2200. I can run a board with external USB to serial converters only if I don't install the mcp2200 on board usb-serial chip. But if it's soldered on then the external serial adapters rarely work at all. I thought tying the MCP 2200's power to USB 5V would help,(V1.1RC2) as the c
by
bryanandaimee
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Controllers
It's possible. You'll need to modify the firmware to lengthen the step pulse on time, and invert the enable line as explained in the wiki section on Sanguish firmware. As is, the step pulse is too short for these drivers. It's been done with other TB6560 boards but not yet as far as I know with Sanguish. Someday I'll get motivated and take a look at it and do some testing with Marlin.
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
1. My USB connectors don't have those but I'll look into it and try to add it to the next version.
2. The USB oscillator is designed to be a crystal resonator for space reasons.
3. Thanks
4, 5, I agree, I'll adjust the components a bit to be more compatible.
6. Yes, Aux is for SD adapter. The SDSL adapter should be pin compatible.
7. Yes, I spaced them out a bit on 1.1, but it might still
by
bryanandaimee
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Controllers
1.1 seems to be working fine. I'm still getting some interference between the mcp2200 and the other serial headers even though it's powered down when disconnected. Some usb-serial cables work and some don't unless you leave the mcp2200 off the board. Then it behaves as expected for external adapters.
I don't seem to be able to upload .h files anymore to the wiki. I'll get these on the sanguish w
by
bryanandaimee
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Controllers
I'm reconsidering the fuses and reverse protection diodes on my design. It seems to me that with polyfuse the reverse protection diode on the heater output will burn out and burn the board long before the polyfuse will trip unless you get a very big diode. With car fuses, do you think a standard or reasonable current diode will last long enough to trip the fuse? For the HBP we're talking 10A. Or
by
bryanandaimee
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Controllers
With higher voltage driving the motors you could also wire them in series. You might get a bit less speed but total torque would be better. Or some combination of series and parallel.
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
Kit price will be the same as version 1.0, $50 plus S&H. Not much changed component wise. Just some changes to routing, placement, etc.
by
bryanandaimee
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Controllers
Got boards for first run of 1.1 RC2 which I'm guessing will be the official release of Sanguish 1.1. I'll build one up and do some testing then put together kits and sell the rest.
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
My last suggestion would be to think about current and trace width. With 5 steppers, a HBP, and two hot ends, you could be running 30 amps or more total. Make sure your power supply connectors can handle it. Also the traces to HBP look a bit thin for 10A. At first I didn't see the separate HBP power supply connector, so you might be good. As long as you have space you might as well thicken up the
by
bryanandaimee
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Controllers
Looks nice. Here are a few things I noticed that you might not have.
One of the resistors inside the ATMega socket is pretty close to the edge. It might hit the socket frame.
You don't have the torque jumper pins wired up. This means no current adjustment at all. Might be a bit limiting, as this is one of the deficiencies of the drivers already.
Similarly the decay mode jumpers. I haven't do
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
I have a couple left over Beta boards. They are fully built and tested. They are free to a good home. They will include drivers and ATMega 644P. Just let me know if you are interested. I've got some unpopulated beta PCB's as well.
by
bryanandaimee
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Controllers
Sanguish 1.1 RC2 is up on the Wiki. This will be the version I am ordering boards of to test.
by
bryanandaimee
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Controllers
I think those are the power connectors. They supply the power to the hot end and heated bed. The thermistor connectors are on the other side of the board. You'll need to change the conector to a two pin connector since they are right next to each other.
Bryan
by
bryanandaimee
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Reprappers
I have a set of files up on the wiki for version 1.1. The main change is that I combined the last enable line to free up one more pin for an external LCD control panel. I think I'll add 5V back to the serial headers so the board can power bluetooth dongles. So You will likely see RC2 up sometime soon.
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
MOSFET code looks good. I got it up and running after changing pins to version 1.0. I'll send you tested versions for Beta and 1.0 as soon as I can.
Thanks
Bryan
by
bryanandaimee
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Controllers
I'm not sure why this is a big deal to the sellers around here. This particular thread has been up for about a week now and it has a few hundred views. Many of those views are likely duplicates from people interested in the thread coming back to keep up on the thread. I would not call that an essential advertising tool. You are better off posting your design on thingiverse or selling on ebay, ema
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bryanandaimee
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General
If you want a MendelMax, (And they are very good printers) You might take a look at the original designer's shop. Mendelmax.com and makerstoolworks.com. There you will find the 2.0 version which has some improvements over the 1.5 you linked. There is no moral imperative to buy from the designer but you often get the latest design improvements that way.
Bryan
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bryanandaimee
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General
I like mpja.com for surplus steppers. You have to know what you are looking for, but you can often find some screaming deals there.
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bryanandaimee
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General
If they really are 24V steppers you might have a hard time driving them with standard reprap electronics. Generally with current limiting drivers like the pololu's you want the drive voltage to be larger than the stepper rated voltage. This allows the duty cycle to be less than 100% so the current limiting circuit can do its job. Check the resistance of the coils and you'll get an idea of the wor
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
You may not find any steppers in older inkjet printers. If you do they might be underpowered for our purposes. It doesn't hurt to try though. Sounds like a perfectly reasonable plan. Pololu.com generally has a black friday sale, which would be a good time to get the drivers. They are the original designer/supplier of the A4988 driver boards we use for stepper drivers. That's why you will often he
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
That's great! Thanks.
I'll test it out as soon as I get a minute or so.
Bryan
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
I just saw this article and thiought I'd share. This puts perspective on the usefullness of 3D printers in 3rd world countries. Too often we reason from our limited experience and come to the wrong conclusions. Of course it's cheaper for me to just buy that small plastic device here in the 1st world than to print it. And we might reason that with limited resources a 3D printer would be an expensi
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bryanandaimee
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General
Made a typo on the pin for SDSL. The proper pin assignment should be
#define SDSS 20
Pin 29 is the Y min pin.
Funny enough the SD card worked. I sent files to it, printed off it and everything. Then I started having strange issues with the Y min endstop.
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
Hmm, the logic level side of the drivers might have blown too. That's bad luck. Often the 7805 dies but protects the other components. Do you get a connection after replacing the ATmega? Maybe I should put a polarity protection diode on the 7805.
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bryanandaimee
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Controllers
I've spent some time on this topic. To the point of developing a new set of electronics. Below is a wiki page summarizing my thoughts with good contributions from some others.
This is the primary purpose of the Sanguish electronics design. The point is to trade build time for $. I started with Gen7T because a single sided design would be optimal for the DIYer who wants to etch their own bo
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bryanandaimee
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General
maybe the hot end is connected to the wrong FET/Thermistor. It would then heat up but not be able to detect when it was hot enough.
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bryanandaimee
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Reprappers