Thanks for the compliment. We use NEMA 17 motors for all axes and the extruder. The bed insulator is 6mm ply on top of a 6mm aluminium frog, so it's nice and stiff.by 3dkarma - For Sale
If your end stop has three wires, 1 common, 1 normally open and the last normally closed, you should connect to the common and normally closed, not the normally open and normally closed.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Can you move the filament manually by moving the extruder gears by hand? If so, the problem is with either the stepper driver or the stepper motor. If not, the filament is stuck in the hot end, probably caused by heat creeping up the hot end to the cold end, causing thermal expansion of the PLA and getting it stuck. Given that you're trying PLA at 220 in a j head hot end, it's more than likelyby 3dkarma - Reprappers
Some possible causes: Mechanical binding - can you use your control software to move up and down the full length of the Z axis? Try it multiple times. Overheating - either the stepper driver or the stepper motors. If they're too hot, vref on your driver is probably too high. If it were partial g-code, you wouldn't be getting the X and Y moves. It also looks, from the rightmost piece in the fby 3dkarma - Reprappers
Post a picture of your board with the drivers installed. We might be able to tell if something's wrong from the picture.by 3dkarma - General
After a quick look, there's nothing obvious wrong. Have you checked for other issues? Loose gear / feeder on the extruder? Have you tried swapping connections (with the power off) to see if a different motor will drive, or swapped the stepper drivers to see if the problem is a bad driver (also swapping with the power off)? Have you tried reloading the original firmware to see if you can get mby 3dkarma - Printing
Definitely uneven cooling, then. An enclosure will really help (even just something to stop the drafts).by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the compliments. The frame is 6mm thick. Solid as a rock. If anyone can recommend a reasonably-priced shipping company, we'd be happy to ship to the US. Every one we've looked at pushes the price well past reasonable. One of the interesting things about the extra frame stabilisation we put on is that it allows you to truly square the Z axis to the Y.by 3dkarma - For Sale
If you're printing with ABS, that kind of deformation can be caused by the print cooling unevenly and part of the print delaminating and curling up. It's generally cured by putting your printer in an enclosure. The pictures are really helpful, but we generally need more information to help, such as type of printer, type of extruder, type of hot end, type of filament, printing temperature, bed tby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Is the hot end heating?by 3dkarma - Printing
I've been running an E3D v5 for a while now, and a v6 since they were first released. I've never had a problem with the threads seizing.by 3dkarma - General
This is a common problem with 3D printers, caused by the action of the hot end pulling the filament toward the center of the hole as it creates the perimeter. The rule of thumb is that the maximum number of vertices of the circle should be twice the diameter of the circle in mm (so 6 vertices for a 3mm circle).by 3dkarma - Printing
If you're interested, I've modified the Wade's to take an E3D v6 and support flexible filament. The trick is to get a bowden tube (for 1.75mm filament) from up near the hobbed bolt all the way down through the E3D V6. You can download the build manual and STL files from .by 3dkarma - Reprappers
This is a little bit of stream of consciousness stuff, here. Could you perhaps condense this down and just describe the problem(s) you're currently having?by 3dkarma - Printing
Your power supply may not have enough oomph. What are its specs?by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
I wonder if you have a GT2 belt mismatched with a T2.5 pulley, or perhaps the other way around. If they are mismatched, they would eventually skip at some point during travel and cause what you're seeing.by 3dkarma - Printing
Might be worth checking that the steps per mm, max speed and acceleration settins in configuration.h are the same for both versions.by 3dkarma - Printing
Looks like you've been extremely thorough. 1. Have you checked to make sure you're driving the Z axis at 1/16th microstepping? 2. Can you post what stepper driver you're using, the current rating of your stepper motors and whether they're wired in series or parallel? From this, we can work out whether the driver has enough oomph to drive the motors they way you've got them wired.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
I've used one of these but had to revert to a heated bed with glue stick as Buildtak sticks too well. I ended up damaging the parts trying to get them off.by 3dkarma - General
Send M503 to the printer.by 3dkarma - General
They might be underpowered. The test code moves the steppers quite slowly. If you're driving the motors faster with RAMPS loaded, but the vref for your stepper drivers is too low, you'll get vibration without movement. Check the reprap wiki for instructions on setting vref.by 3dkarma - Developers
Strings are generally cured by increasing retraction length. The gaps in your top surface could be caused by under extrusion.by 3dkarma - Printing
Take a look at your g code in a text file viewer and look for the first G0 Z or G1 Z command. If it's setting the height above 2mm, the issue's in your slicer settings.by 3dkarma - Printing
Try lowering the extrusion multiplier (under filament settings) in steps of .02.by 3dkarma - Printing
Run your finger over a solid layer. If it's rough or the infill is higher than the perimeters, chances are you're over extruding. How much you're extruding is also dependent on the filament diameter, even if your e-steps per mm is correct.by 3dkarma - Printing
Try slowing the retraction speed down a little to see if it's skipping steps.by 3dkarma - Printing
Send an M503 command to the printer, which will give you its current settings and should tell you the offset. You could also try explicitly setting the offset to 0 using M206by 3dkarma - Printing
Open up the g-code file in a text editor and look for M109 - this is the command to set the extruder temperature and wait for it to be reached, before printing starts. If there's a problem, it's probably around there. What might be happening is that the printer is trying to set the bed temperature, not getting to the set temperature and not getting beyond the M190 command, which sets the bed teby 3dkarma - Printing
Sounds like the nozzle is too far away from the bed. Heat up your hot end so the plastic at the end is nice and soft and won't affect your setting. Place a piece of paper under the nozzle and home the Z axis. If the paper moves freely with no drag, your nozzle is too far away. If the paper won't move, your nozzle is too close. After homing the Z axis, the paper should move reasonably freelyby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics