Don't use the reprap pro version of Marlin - it's specifically configured for their printers. Use this version instead: . You will need to set values in configuration.h based on your printer but you'll be off to a good start. Is there any way you can get any information from the vendor with regard to types of thermistor? This will help.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Borosilicate glass is recommended for the heated bed as it can withstand repeated heating / cooling cycles much better than ordinary glass. That being said, many people swear by ordinary glass they source from picture frame makers, who are generally more than happy to cut a few pieces for you. Glass for the i2 and i3 are the same size, so you can use one that's made for the i3. I had problemsby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
The Budaschnozzle has two wires for the heating element - they'll be the thick ones - and two for the thermistor - they'll be the thinner ones. There is no polarity on either, but follow the colour guide if they're in red/black pairs. How they are connected to your electronics board depends entirely on which board you have. Either post it here or google for " wiring diagram" - e.g. for the RAMby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
You can slow acceleration by sending M201 to the printer (you'll need to connect your printer to your PC and use control software such as Pronterface to do this). Reference here: . Obviously you'll need a USB cable to connect your printer to your PC, then some control software like Pronterface () or Repetier Host () to control it.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Sounds like you've got a home offset value set. Send the following to the printer to remove the offset for the Z axis: M206 Z0 Offsets may be stored in EEPROM - send M503 to see what's been stored. Check the reprap wiki for further information.by 3dkarma - Printing
It's difficult to tell from the description / photos, but it might be blobs at perimeter start / end points. If you're using Slic3r, you can randomise start points. You might also want to play with the retraction settings.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
This link will take you to the current main branch of Marlin: . If you look to the top left of the page, immediately below the number of commits there is a green button. To the right of that is a combo box which will allow you to select either the development branch, stable branch of main branch ("development," "stable" or "Marlin_V1" respectively). Use the main branch. Updates are reasonablyby 3dkarma - Reprappers
You can reduce your acceleration settings if you're using Marlin or Repetier, but that won't necessarily prevent your wobble. You'd be better off solving the warping problem, which is what I assume you're getting from the description of your problems. If you're printing in ABS, you'll need a heated bed at the very least. Regardless of type of filament, make sure your bed is level and your initby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
If you post a picture of your extruder we can give more specific advice. It's difficult to diagnose without knowing what type of extruder you have.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
You definitely have an i2. Nice work on the replacement part. I had the same extruder and the same part failed. Your extruder can have issues with not having enough torque to push filament through. The Wade should work with your existing hot end and the gears will improve torque and the ability to push filament through, although be aware that the hot end may be the cause of your printing probby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Can you upload a photo of your extruder? Printed geared extruders can have a binding issue if the print isn't clean up properly - there can be a lip on the bottom face of the gear that can cause binding. Cleaning it up with a small file helps. If you have a printed geared extruder, you can check for binding by rotating the gears by hand. It should be easy to feel where / if they bind.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
What firmware do you have? If Marlin, you can invert any of the axes in Configuration.h: #define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR true // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false #define INVERT_Z_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to trueby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
The bowden and direct driver version of the E3D v6 hot end are the same for 1.75mm filament. A bowden coupler is supplied with the bowden kit - that's the only difference. The 3mm filament versions differ in the opening at the top of the heat sink / cold end. You can see the differences in the diagrams on this page: . If 3mm is your preference, you can upgrade from the direct drive to the bowby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Clamps have less of a tendency to come loose and center the shaft better.by 3dkarma - Mechanics
That looks very much like z-wobble. Are the threaded rods that move the build plate up and down fixed at both ends? If they are, and there is a bend in your Z axis threaded rods (I'm assuming no lead screws), then you'll get the artefacts you're seeing.by 3dkarma - Printing
You're getting heat creep above the heating block. You need to cool everything from the heating block up. All-metal hot-ends are good for this due to the heat sink immediately above the heat break. I'm not sure how well a peek hot end can be cooled, but you could try directing a fan above the heating block.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Send M115 to the printer and it should report the current version.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Not enough power from the RAMPS board to run the servo. You'll need to power the servo separately.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Glad I could help. Marlin has support for auto-tuning the PID settings of your printer to give a good, stable temperature. There's a good write-up of the procedure at the reprap wiki.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
No probs, Andreas. Send M119 to the printer and it will report your endstop status. Trigger the Z axis manually and send M119 again to see what you get. There isn't a height setting in configuration.h for this, but there are settings for max and min endstops, pullup resistors and inverting the endstops. These need to be correct before it'll all work. If you're still having problems after thby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
You're using the reprappro version of Marlin, which is specifically modified to support reprappro's mendel or huxley printers, not the prusa i3. If your travel is limited to about 160mm in the x or y directions, your firmware has been configured for the huxley, which has a small build platform. 1. Check at the top of the file configuration.h for the type of printer you have defined: // Uncommeby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Sounds like your power supply doesn't have enough oomph to drive the hot end and steppers at the same time, hence the temperature drop.by 3dkarma - Printing
Autolevelling means your nozzle will be the same distance from the print bed at each point on the bed, but it doesn't necessarily mean it will be the right distance. You still need to tune the nozzle height.by 3dkarma - Printing
There are three sections in your configuration.h, one for each of the reprappro printers: mendel, mendel2 and huxley. You've not included which printer you've defined in configuration.h, but make sure you're changing the steps per mm in the correct section for your printer, as it differs for each.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Either you're over-extruding or the first layer is too close to the print bed. If you're too low, the filament gets squeezed out and up when the head moves around.by 3dkarma - Printing
If it's on change of direction, your belts might be a bit loose. It also looks like you're over-extruding a little.by 3dkarma - Printing
Try putting a layer of painter's tape down on the bed. The rough surface of the tape can help adhesion. Curling is also a classic symptom of a bed that hasn't been leveled.by 3dkarma - Printing
The PLA print looks like there's over-extrusion. Try reducing the extrusion multiplier. Regarding the bands, it kind of looks like a harmonic vibration that's creeping into the hotend. Can you randomise the layer start points to see if that changes things?by 3dkarma - Printing
It depends on what you're trying to run from D8 and D9. If you take a look at Configuration.h, you'll see a section where you select the board. Board numbers 33, 34 and 35 are where you choose what you're going to do with the outputs. Unless you're running two extruders, use 33. If you don't have thermistors connected, you won't be able to drive the heated bed, as Marlin protections to stop iby 3dkarma - Reprappers
The bed is a large mass to move about on the Y axis, as is the X axis. You might want to consider upgrading to NEMA 23s.by 3dkarma - General