very much a CNC machine from its home page also note the price "Complete mechanical, electronics, software system under $16,000."by Dust - General
No way to do that in marlin (that i'm aware of) But Repetier firmware supports color mixing (ie concurrent simultaneous extrusion) See this thread on how to implement it There is also a version of teacup that is for 5 axis. (branch uvxy i believe) I've not looked into this..by Dust - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Use arvdude (command line only) (is part of Arduino IDE, but will not be in the path) eg avrdude -c usbasp -b 38400 -i 10 -p m1284p -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -U flash:r:factory.hex:i -c is the type of programmer you have probably usbasp or usbasp-clone -b baud rate -p is the processor either m644p or m1284p depends what your board has. -P is the com port /dev/ttyUSB0 is a linux example, com3 for a wiby Dust - Controllers
So grab a fresh copy of the firmware from You could try copying your old configuration.h over the default one. But I would backup the default one first Compile and upload itby Dust - Reprappers
not sure on what length it becomes an issue, but 8mm smooth rods move to much, consider 10mmby Dust - General
Its not likely to be motors (you can turn the motor plugs around 180 and they will move in the revere direction (NEVER unplug steppers while the power is on) bad soldering on pololu modules? If you look at you will see the direction line in one of the corners... check the soldering on the corner pins The only other option is firmware... where did you get your firmware? ? Maybe a badby Dust - Reprappers
You guys are so negative.. it a prototype! And I think it has lots of interesting ideas. Is it practical?... far to soon to tell.by Dust - General
No to the firmware... this is like giving an Englishman a Japanese book They just don’t speak the same language NB a GT2560 is a downgrade from a GTM32 based system.. The first is a 16Mhz 8bit machine, the latter is a 32bit 72Mhz machine.. If your lucky you can get some setting with the m503 command that you can copy into the new board.by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
I don’t use LCD.. so limiting... In fact try this Plug in a computer, install pronterface, get it talking to the printer. send a "G28 X" the head should move to the X endstop send a "G90" set Absolute Positioning send a "G1 X0" move X to zero. Does it end up where at X=0 as expected? if it does your issue is something lcd related... If not... well will have to think on that..by Dust - Reprappers
ERROR: MINTEMP will freeze the whole machine, its a safety measure This is normally caused by the thermistor wire being broken... or unplugged (or perhaps incorrect thermistor settings in firmware) Remove the hotend thermistor cable from the pcb, stick your multimeter on ohms and stick the multimeter probes in the thermistor plug, to read the cable and thermistor resistance. Its should read abouby Dust - Reprappers
Well i suggest you get a new ruler! A standard reprap pcb heater is 200x200 and that between the lines, its actually a bit larger than that, 210ish? Now from your video it looks like when the X axis is on the end stop the nozzle is past the print area line, so its over 200mm to get back to 0 You have set X_MAX_POS 180... I would try 210 to start with. Secondly, this relies on the movement beby Dust - Reprappers
Something to try... physically move the X axis to a central position send the printer a "G92 X100" (make the printer think its at X=100) send the printer a "M119" (show endstop status, and past results here, X endstops should be open) send the printer a "G90" (Set to Absolute Positioning) send the printer a "G1 X110 F300" (this should move the X axis to the right 10mm, slowly) What dby Dust - Reprappers
Post your configuration.h to pastebin.com and link to it here... so we can take a look There is a direction pin on each pololu modules... it just goes directly to a mega IO pin. but the likelihood of all 3 of them being dead... is remote. It does sound like you haven’t done step 4 above...by Dust - Reprappers
Lots of things to check.. 1) Identify position of endstops Depending where your endstops are they are either min or max endstops X axis Min endstop is on the left, Max endstop is on the right Y axis Min endstop us at the back, Max endstop is at the front Z axis Min endstop is down, Max endstop is at the top 2) set you firmware appropriately Now you have identified which are min and which are mby Dust - Reprappers
Yes in this case, but remember that this machine homes to X=200 (or what ever the X length is), Y=0, Z=0 (some people have the mind set that home is always X=0,Y=0,Z=0)by Dust - Reprappers
ok... I see what you mean Since X is a max endstop the controller needs to know the length of your X axis to get back to zero. Find your setting #define X_MAX_POS in configuration.h move your X carriage to it max position, measure in MM the distance from the nozzle hole to where X0 is Change this value to the new measurement For Y, as I have already said, you have this backwards. This isby Dust - Reprappers
Huh? This is a Cartesian printer, ie I3 type?? unless its a delta or coreXY etc all axis are independent... including homing.. Ie homing Z should not move X or Y Can you provide more images? more details? Maybe a video? FYI on a I3 the Y end stop at the back is a min end stop not a max. (its reversed as bed moves not the head in that axis)by Dust - Reprappers
If your talking hot end cooling fan, directly to 12v somewhere, so its always on If your talking about extruded plastic cooling fan, this is software controlled, this depends on your type of controller. With a ramps its plugged into D9by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
The printer when turned on thinks it at 0 on each axis. You then home so it really knows where the 0 is to cheat use m92 and tell the printer is really mid position, then it will be able to move in the other direction This presumes your endstops are working... if you do a m119 If any of the endstop report being triggered, it wont move in that directionby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
oh your one of those people (I know two people like that, brilliant bastards that prefer assembler as C doesn’t give enough control) Please develop for a 32 bit processor, and not the practically dead horribly unfashionable atmega based systems. Also have you seen teacup firmware might be more to your likingby Dust - Developers
I'm well aware of power dissipation ratings... But I presume the designer had some sense and has designed it somewhat sanely I doubt the current is that low... If your an engineer, please do the tests for real, not just continue the speculation... What I do know from real world practical experience is that there are thousands of people happily running standard 20x4 and 128x64 on the raby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
Diamond hot end is released under Creative commons, Attribution, No commercial use without licence, Share alike No Attribution was given, and I guarantee they haven’t got any licence. Please do not buy from these thieves! Get a real diamond head. I have e-mailed reprap.me to let them know. Its up to them if they wish to take further action.by Dust - General
The mega2560 regulator is meant to be a NCP1117ST50T3G, its meant to be good for 1A If they have a servo, I would agree with you as they are current hungry, but they don’t seem to. And the fact that it works on a mates mega, indicates that its not a lack of current due to the design limitations...by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
First mega has a dead voltage regulator, it takes 12v from ramps and make 5v for the mega. On both megas I would check it has +5v and +3.3 volts on the appropriate pins with just a dc power jack plugged in.by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
also user Anujwebb seems like they have found a way to automate adding crap pages... I've Undone these spam edits.by Dust - Administration, Announcements, Policy
LOL you believe china product descriptions, you fool!!! They put every buzzword they can think of into the description to try and lure you to buy their stuff. "Brand 3D Printer Motherboard Reprap RAMPS-FD Shield Ramps 1.4 Control Board Compatible with Arduino Due Main Control Board" In this example "Ramps 1.4" has nothing to do with anything, that’s the standard mega shield There is no 1.4 veby Dust - Controllers
At a guess you have a damaged voltage regulator on the mega (normally caused by plugging in endstops wrong and shorting 5v to gnd) This takes the 12v and turns it into 5v, I suspect its putting out something other than 5v on the 5v lines This in turn burnt out some of the USB protection on the mega. Plug in the mega to a dc power supply (and nothing else), check what voltage is on a 5v pin,by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
Yip, your using to much power... The mega voltage regulator is already stretched if you have a LCD Disconnect the +5v servo power from VCC, Power the +5v servo power pin from a separate 5v supplyby Dust - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors