Having real problems with this. Has there been a recent update, adding more? I can't even use Charlie Oscar Mike for web links. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Administration, Announcements, Policy
The word Charlie Oscar Mike , as used for many, many website links, appears to have been banned. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Administration, Announcements, Policy
documentation/troubleshooting-introduction/printing-problems/#Poor_or_no_extrusion Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
You can reduce the length as much as you like, you just don't want it to kink. I didn't reduce the length of mine, but it seems to be okay, even with the lid on. I also taped the endstop wires to the side panels. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Hi Greg_be You can rotate the effector (ie undo the arms, and rotate it 120 degrees, reconnect it), so the hot end wires don't hit the wiring looms. You can probably bend the white heater wires so they don't stick out so much, and/or fit another cable tie to hold it in a bit better. We're still playing with the macros, but feel free to contribute any improvement suggestions! Ian RepRapPro techby droftarts - Fisher
+1, in English. I'd write a longer message, but I get the banned word message.by droftarts - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Most likely, there is chewed up filament in the teeth of the hobbed insert, so it can't grip the filament. As Greg_be says, unmount it, and clean the teeth. Make sure you don't set the tensioner too tight, or it will have trouble feeding. Test it by hand. Though it is more relevant to our other printers (we need to include some information for Fisher), see the troubleshooting guide > printingby droftarts - Fisher
Interesting! Just in case anyone needs them, the arms, available in pairs, are here on our webshop: We are now stocking a range of Fisher parts: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Nice! Don't tell anyone, but I only finished mine last weekend... it prints very nicely, though! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
I don't have a problem with Safari on Mac OS X. I have to 'Connect' (it doesn't do it automatically), but apart from that it seems fine. Also iPad and iPhone Safari browsers work fine, as do Android-based phones we've tried. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
There's a thread about this in the Ormerod (which also uses a Duet) forum: Basically, it's that IE is still not quite HTML-compliant. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
DXF of bed is here (direct link to download): We haven't released the SolidWorks files yet, as they still need tidying up. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
If you have got a bed that is concave, I think the quickest way of getting a good, flat, surface will be to get a 3mm thick, 170mm diameter piece of float glass cut by a local glazier. Tape this to the acrylic bed. You should be able to peel the BuildTak off the acrylic (I've taken mine off and put it back on a number of times, and it still adheres well) and put it on the glass. As a side note,by droftarts - Fisher
Check your bed is actually flat. The Fisher I built, it turns out the acrylic is slightly warped, and I have a dip in the middle of my bed of around 0.3mm - it's visible when I put a flat edge across it. We'll have to work out how common this is, and what's causing it, as obviously it needs to be flat. The config.g uses the actual lengths, from the design files, EXACTLY as it's modelled! M665 Rby droftarts - Fisher
I've replied on the other couple of threads about bed.g: The last 'G31 Z0.1' is wrong, and puts the nozzle too close to the bed. This was a transposition mistake, and, as many of you have pointed out, should be Z-0.1. Sorry! This is the same as is set in config.g. This gives 0.1mm of movement of the head to disconnect the bed probe, which seems about right. The 'G31 Z-0.2' is the one to play arby droftarts - Fisher
Hi all Sorry for the problems with bed.g. Now Jean-Marc is back from holiday, we have found out that we did manage to upload the wrong version of bed.g to the 'updated' version of the SD card files. This looked like: ; Probe the bed and do auto calibration G1 X-64.95 Y-37.5 F12000 G4 P300 G30 P0 X-64.95 Y-37.5 Z-99999 ; X tower G4 P300 G30 P1 X64.95 Y-37.5 Z-99999 ; Y tower G4 P300 G30by droftarts - Fisher
Hi all Sorry for the problems with bed.g. Now Jean-Marc is back from holiday, we have found out that we did manage to upload the wrong version of bed.g to the 'updated' version of the SD card files. This looked like: ; Probe the bed and do auto calibration G1 X-64.95 Y-37.5 F12000 G4 P300 G30 P0 X-64.95 Y-37.5 Z-99999 ; X tower G4 P300 G30 P1 X64.95 Y-37.5 Z-99999 ; Y tower G4 P300 G30by droftarts - Fisher
As PRZ says, to allow for a steeper angle on the outside of the nozzle (90 degrees, which improves overhangs) compared with our previous nozzles (Quick set and one-piece stainless, which have a nozzle angle of 118 degrees, which is the same as the angle of a standard drill tip), the Fisher nozzle does step down from 2mm to 1mm internally, before the nozzle itself, of 0.4mm. This is effectively thby droftarts - Fisher
To the above, I should add that the sequence for clearing nozzle blockages (and also for changing filament), such that you can clear it right down to the tip of the nozzle, is: Heat nozzle to operating temperature (200C for PLA) Extrude a little filament, like 10mm (if possible) by hand or via the interface, then set temperature to around 100C (try different temperatures if it doesn't pull outby droftarts - Fisher
Hi La_doc 1. The Fisher's external dimensions are: each side (as it's three-sided) is 26cm wide, at it's widest point, and 43cm tall. It fits in a circle of 27.5cm diameter. 2. I don't think this would be a problem; drill a hole in the middle of the top plate, attach the spool mount there, and put the filament on the top. Depending on the spool size, you may need a plate under it, just to hold iby droftarts - Fisher
Hi Dodger Is your nozzle too close to the bed for the first layer? It may be that the nozzle can't extrude, as it's being 'blocked' by the bed, so the extruder skips. The nozzle should be the height of the first layer off the bed, eg around 0.3mm up. Make sure you get your first layer correct. See: and Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Nice mod! The sensor should work fine on bare aluminium, or through Kapton-on-aluminium; it's what we do with our Huxley Duo printer. It's if you put glass on it that there's a problem; the glass is invisible, so it sees the aluminium underneath! As the probe is most accurate in the 2 to 4mm range, the glass is too thick to get a good reading, so we put paper targets on top of the glass. Ian Repby droftarts - Ormerod
Hi winterjames Thanks for your feedback. Could you email it to me on support@reprappro.com as well? Then it will go in our notes. Good point about the top and bottom plates extra holes for securing the side panels, though generally we don't bother with them! Fitting the top plate is (sort of) covby droftarts - Fisher
Hi RogerBW This sounds like a fairly standard nozzle blockage, but there are a number of reasons why a blockage, or a failure of the extruder to drive the filament, may occur, which you need to work through. First, to remove the filament from the nozzle. Usually you can heat up the nozzle, then retract the filament. However, for more stubborn nozzle blockages, you may need to disassemble the hoby droftarts - Fisher
Yes, one of the cable ties supplied fits through the microswitch and panel fine; I did this on one of my microswitches, as the screws weren't holding. You need to put the 'head' of the cable tie at the top of the microswitch if you fit it from inside, or it will hit the carriage/arm before the microswitch is activated, like this: Or fit it from the outside. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Thanks Chris, got the email. Just a quick note, we added a bit about bending the microswitch levers to the instructions on Friday: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
No, there's no PID tuning, at the moment. Whether you get an overshoot or an undershoot depends on the target temperature, as the PID is tuned for a temperature of around 200C; it's probably that you were choosing specific temperatures. ie, it will overshoot at a low temperature, eg 100C, fit very well at 200C, but is probably undershooting at near 275C! Please note that 300C is all that the theby droftarts - Fisher
Hi Chris Thanks for your feedback. Can you also email your observations to me on support@reprappro.com ? Jean-Marc, the designer of the Fisher, and director of RepRapPro, did the calibration, but is away on holiday this week. I haven't dived into the configuration yet to know enough about it (I oby droftarts - Fisher
Hi Treito That's very true, just that we don't offer it as standard. To add a third hot end to an Ormerod, you have to hack it yourself! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Hi PRZ We aim for around 50W from the heater cartridge, and match the heater cartridge to the voltage, so with a resistance of around 7 ohms, the heater cartridge produces 51.5W, which is plenty. I expect that you get the heater fault message, about not reaching the target temperature in time. This is what I send to customers who have had this problem: Some customers have had problems with hoby droftarts - Fisher