Hi Archie You shouldn't need the paper on the corners for a Huxley. The sensor should work fine on the aluminium itself. The reason it's on the Ormerod and Mendel beds is because they have glass on the bed, and the probe gives a false reading as it sees through the glass. Make sure you use the Huxley SD Image, which should have the bed size set up for the Huxley, so the bed compensation points aby droftarts - Huxley
I'd think it was backlash in one of the axes, causing the effector to wobble, possibly a loose nut on the effector or carriage. Check that all the screws in the effector and carriages are not loose, that the joints on the arms, carriages and effector have no play in them, the belts are tight enough, and the belt pulleys are tight on the motor shafts. You can usually test this by gently wobbling tby droftarts - Fisher
I'm taking the pictures for the instructions today, so you'll get a good look at the changes soon. The geared extruder will fit on the existing side panel, but does use the same hobbed bolt as our other printers, and an extra hex head screw. And yes, there's a filament guide into the extruder now. The spacing between the smooth rods has changed for Fisher 1, by 3mm, to tighten up the clamping efby droftarts - Fisher
As Arduino IDE is needed anyway for USB connections, for the drivers, at least on Windows, it's never seemed to us a very great impediment that you have to download the whole IDE. Also, while we could re-distribute bossac on it's own, we are not sure of the licensing, and we haven't contacted the author about doing this. We're currently looking at 'other ways' to update the firmware... If you waby droftarts - Fisher
It was designed to be symmetric, so the extruder could drive filament into a Bowden tube in either direction. If you get a second Bowden tube, brass union and tongue, it will lock into the block, just like the other side. You can use this as a filament guide tube. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
I think the parts you are looking for are #818 - M3X18mm Male/Female Standoff. There should be 7 of these in the kit. They are packed in #860 - Huxley Electronics bag 1 (which also contains the microswitch and power jack), and is, in turn, in the box #1188 - Huxley Electronics Kit (which contains the Duet). Email support@reprap&by droftarts - Huxley
There's a list of all the crimps used on Ormerod 1 here: And Ormerod 2 here: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Though it's a horrible imperial size (2.032mm/0.08 inch tooth pitch, 6.35mm/0.25 inch width) MXL belt is much, much cheaper than all of the other belt types, as are the pulleys, for no appreciable difference in output. It's cheaper because it's much more widely used than other belt, and unlike proper GT belt and pulleys (Registered trademark of Gates Corporation) you're not paying a premium for cby droftarts - Ormerod
What Melzi board do you have? If you have one based on the early, Melzi V1, including the 'Melzi 1.0/2.0 eBay Hybrid', these are well known for inaccurate temperature response. See: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - General Mendel Topics
The PRIMARY reason for the fan is to keep a consistent filament melt zone in the nozzle, and to keep the heat centred on this area. That's how all our hot ends are designed, and how you get consistent extrusion. The heatsink and fan cool the top of the nozzle, so filament doesn't melt further up the nozzle, increasing the pressure needed to extrude. That's why the fan needs to run all the time. Iby droftarts - Fisher
It will be the on-board 5V regulator (the buck converter) that is causing DAB radio interference - we've had this reported before. Your best option is to either power the Duet from USB (try it, to see if the interference goes away), or use the 5V _PS input pins (next to the main power input screw terminals) and put a jumper on JP10. You can connect a 'wall-wart' 5V power supply to this, just checby droftarts - Ormerod
I've just finished updating the wiring page of the Ormerod 2 instructions, with a new wiring diagram, instructions for connecting the new hot end and fan wiring looms, and updated instructions for the shielding, which has been needing an update for a very long time! See: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Jelle - the filament should not be melting up anywhere near the PTFE tube. If it is, there's something wrong with your hot end construction. Most likely the nozzle is loose in the heatsink, and the top of the nozzle is not being cooled sufficiently. Retraction should only be 3mm, which should still not bring the molten filament close to the tube. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
There's a few different ways of drilling out the Bowden tube. The older method of fitting the brass union, and drilling into it with a 2mm drill, is, I think, the best; it ensures the hole in the Bowden tube is central, and concentric with the hole in the brass union. You can do this to both ends of the tube with the Fisher, if you want. We changed to using the 2.5mm drill method, as the Fisherby droftarts - Fisher
Hi Helwic For temperature sensing problems, have a look at this troubleshooting guide: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Treito, it's nothing to do with varying the start point, as this is a spiral vase print; there is no specific layer start, it continuously moves up. The seam is caused by a bug in Slic3r's spiral vase gcode generation. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
I posted about this bug in Slic3r here: And reported it here: It still seems to be apparent in Slic3r v1.2.9 Basically, turn off relative E distances in 'Slic3r > Printer Settings > General > Advanced > Use relative E distances', and Slic3r should create the correct gcode. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
The logo is part #1248. It's in the 'sw' folder as a SolidWorks part, but we appear to have neglected converting it to an STL. We'll update add it when we get a chance! In the meantime, you can open it with the free Onshape online CAD program, and export as an STL from that. Other CAD programs may also be able to open SolidWorks files, but I'm not sure which. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Sorry you are having problems with your bed. It is a problem that has been reported by a small number of customers. The pressure of the countersunk screw and the steel ball on the hole in the acrylic, and particularly as they all expand and contract with temperature (a few other people have said they have had the same issue the day after), causes them to break. We think it happens mostly when theby droftarts - Fisher
We've updated the Fisher.ini Slic3r config file. It's now a 'config bundle', rather than just a config, so it imports more easily, and you don't have to save it once you've imported it. There isn't much difference, but we have added a 0.1mm 'fine' quality Print setting. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Nice! And bullet-proof, in polycarbonate! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
The SolidWorks files are version 2015; you may be trying to open it in 2014. Blame SolidWorks for making us upgrade! And like Greg_be says, make sure you download the whole repository (download the ZIP file on the first page), or download 'RAW' files. If you right-click and download on the links in the list, you get an html page, not the file! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Hi Brian Sorry, we've run down our stocks of the old one-piece stainless nozzle, and have no 0.5mm nozzles, and a few 0.3mm nozzles. We don't plan on ordering any more. The latter could be drilled out to 0.5mm, though a lathe would be the best way to do this to avoid broken drill bits. The 'upgrade' to a Quick set nozzle doesn't offer much practical benefit, apart from easier build (see ) andby droftarts - Ormerod
Check that the linear bearings are lubricated. It's actually the seals that need lubricating; if they dry out, they can 'chatter' on the smooth rod, which may cause mis-stepping. This can be worse at higher speed, or at particular speeds, when the frequency is just right. Put a drop of light oil on the smooth rod each side of the bearing, and move the bearing back and forth. This is covered in thby droftarts - Ormerod
Generally, on our other machines, we only use one bearing for the idler. I don't think there is such a thing as a double flange 623 bearing (I can't find them after a brief look), they're all single flange. Also, I think a double flange wouldn't let the belt run between them. The Fisher is the first printer we've run with two 623 bearings, and we used what we had available. We'll look into usingby droftarts - Fisher
SolidWorks files are now in the github repository, in the 'sw' folder: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
QuotePRZReprap censorship is MAD! And Its doesn't disclose what it don't like ! I have reported this. Should be fixed soon. See: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Hi, see Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Thanks DeuxVis! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Sorry, removed. I was just testing what was, and was not, banned!by droftarts - Administration, Announcements, Policy