I was really intrigued with the 3D printers made from DVD roms. While I bought purpose built DVD motors with longer leadscrews, and with some left over V-slot from other projects, I was determined to put together a 3D printer that was no only compact, but also had at least a half decent build area for its size (60mm x 60mm x 60mm). This is a work in progress, so I thought I would share where i amby Chaser30 - Developers
Thanks Viktor. I managed to translate into english, but i am sure an english version will also be handy. A very stylish unit I must say and impressive video. I would be keen to see how you manage to get the electronics together for all the functions. I have searched and searched, and finding it hard to find out how to connect the Extruder Controller V2.2 to an Ardunio Development board and progrby Chaser30 - General
Thanks etfranch. Another option was a Extruder Controller V2.2, It runs the hot end and stepper motor for the extruder when powered up. This may be what I am looking for to add a hotend and motor when changing from CNC to 3D printer. Anyone had any experience with these boards with Ardunio boards.by Chaser30 - General
I have seen some large 3D printers on the net, and some of the larger stuff they build in this build space can take up to 72 hours.(depending on object) Dont think i would have that sort of patience. Keep up the good work, coming along nicely.by Chaser30 - General
Ok, to start with the thermistats are cheap, but the wires from the thermistat must slide through a very thin telfon tube (About an inch or so) and then connected to the wiring to the board. The teflon tube protects the wires from the heat. Aluminum block, therimistat and teflon tube will not be expensive at all. And I bought 1M of .1mm diameter teflon tube from a local supplier for $1.30. Hby Chaser30 - General
Ok, so I have a lot of bits and pieces left over from my many CNC and 3D printer builds (mainly V-Slot) So I am thinking of building a 3D Printer, CNC, Laser Combo. So after going through many forums and builds, it seems that using the RAMPS board to do all has some issues. I cant seem to find a clear instruction or code that will enable me to set up the RAMPS board for this project (unless someby Chaser30 - General
Is it belt driven? One thing I have seen before is if you dont have the motor with the flat section on the shaft, it doesn't matter how tight you make the grub screws, it can still spin on a round shaft after time. Usually this can be seen when you take the pulley off, and see scratch marks around the motor shaft where the grub screws have been. (this happened once with my extruder also early onby Chaser30 - General
Am building a dual extruder, and wondering if its possible to have PLA on one extruder, and ABS on another, has anyone done it??? Would PLA and ABS join together in a build??? Obviously the bed temp would be set to whatever is getting laid first, was just wondering if the two would join together. I am thinking I wouldn't be able to lay two colors on the first layer because of the different bed seby Chaser30 - General
Have you got a fan, and is it activating on the first layer. I use hairspray with no probs, but found that i had to activate my fan in slicr after the first couple of layers were layed as it was cooling to quickly and warping. Also i noticed a big difference in room tempature. During the day when it was nice and warm...no worries. Just recently it has cooled down at night...same settings and keptby Chaser30 - Printing
In Slicr for Fan settings, it puts a comment on the page to confirm when and how fast the fan will activate for prints when you have entered the setting. For example mine says something like "Fan with turn on from Layer 1 at 85%"by Chaser30 - Reprappers
Camillo The contrast control is behind the screen on the other side of the board in the corner. Its about 5mm in diameter and has a slot to put in a screwdriver to turn. Turn it till you see the textby Chaser30 - General Mendel Topics
The contrast control is behind the screen on the other side of the board in the corner. Its about 5mm in diameter and has a slot to put in a screwdriver to turn. Just to be sure that you are not talking about the knob beside the screen.by Chaser30 - RAMPS Electronics
Ok, I had the same prob with erratic tempatures, to the point it was dropping below room tempeture. I could heat it up, but as soon as I started a print, the temp would drop. I swapped the thermocouple wires over on the board and mine works perfect. I found a website and it stated this " If you insert it wrong, it will simply report the reverse of the real temperature. Please note: the v1.0 boby Chaser30 - Printing
I changed the pin setting and configuration.h which was easy enough, but was getting the common error of when starting the hot end, the tempature would drop and trigger the MINTEMP error. This was easily fixed by swapping the wires over for the thermocouple and ran fine!!!. I found this message on a website about the boards Connect Thermocouple Wire up your thermocouple to the board. Thermocoby Chaser30 - Repetier
First of all, Ardunio and ramps boards are the best for the begginner. Not only is there a wealth of info on how to install, but the configuration code in marlin for example, has all the help text in the configuration file to help select the right setting and it is a good way to learn and understand the code to make adjustments. If you dont have access to CNC's, lasercutters or waterjets to produby Chaser30 - Printing
Here is the dxf for the upper shaft holders. Once I am happy that every thing works i will share the dxf files. Since I didn't do these plates on a cnc, i made additional pieces from 3mm MDF to hold the y-rods in place and for the end pulley. (as you can see in the photos painted in grey). What I love about this is that it keeps that Prusa look, but it is built solid, so I am comfortable moving tby Chaser30 - General Mendel Topics
I should also mention about the jumper settings under each stepstick. The guy before you may have not set up the board properly. Heres a guide, most people i believe use all three jumpers under each stepstick for the motors using 1/16 step. jumper Yes/No step size 1 2 3 no no no full step yes no no half step no yes no 1/4 step yes yes no 1/8 step yesby Chaser30 - Reprappers
Started mine but made a few altercations to files and was cut on waterjet. Made the smaller plates on my small cnc (in grey). I prefered the electronics on the side , similar to the Prusa I3, only for the fact that I could work on them and make adjustments without flipping the printer over.by Chaser30 - General Mendel Topics
Heaps on ebay, the code represents the internal size of belt. Here is an example:by Chaser30 - Reprappers
Sounds like a problem with your connectors, get some new board connectors and rewire or solder Also is the thermostat the same as previous or do you need to change firmware???by Chaser30 - Reprappers
there the 2 pins that are behind the yellow packets that are for the extruder fan, to run 2 fans for dual extruders i know you can get a splitter board that attaches 2 fans and then connects to the extruder fan pins on the ramps board. the mcode is entered into the gcode dependind on what settings you enter into the software eg repititor and speed of fan is controlled by voltage throgh the boarby Chaser30 - Reprappers
Check this out where this guy claims he wired into the D9 ports on the ramps board and was able to control the fan with G-code!!! There are also 2 pins (Behind the 2 yellow packets) that are for the extruder fan. M-Code turns your fans on and off. "you can send a M106 S[0-255] to set the speed of the fan…. 255 being the fastest, and 0 being off."by Chaser30 - Reprappers
1. You need to install firmware such as Marlin. There are heaps of sites like this that will help you. You will need to install the Ardunio software first for your board to be able to install the firmware. Repetier is the software you use to create and run your prints!! 2. Again, start with the firmware and ensure that it is correctly configured for z axis. Post a pic of your machine and photosby Chaser30 - Reprappers
Hi guys, long time listener...first time caller. I am on to my 2nd build of a 3d printer and wanted something that was solid and easy to build. Some of you may remember a solid built printer based on the Prusa i3 called Itopie. I thought what the hell. Picked up some 16mm MDF for $7 at the hardware, redesigned it a little in CAD and had the waterjet at my work cut out the plates. A little paintby Chaser30 - Reprappers