QuoteKeshan Just wondering if anyone tried to run marlin 2.0 on this board, I spent the day try to make it boot, but with marlin 2.0 compiled and copied to the sd card, it just won't boot, the firmware.bin always changed to FIRMWARE.CUR, but the control board just won't boot. Yes i flashed mine 2 days ago with it, worked first time. You are copying it manually to the card? Why not upload it witby xelad - Controllers
Hi Guys, I have been out of the loop for about a year now in the 3D Printing world, only really using my printers at work when needed. Recently i started re-educating myself on current events and noticed that Marlin 2.0 Bugfix is out and supports the MKS SBase (Great work!!). I want to start gearing up to try and get this going on my SBase as i really am not fond of smoothieware, i wondered if sby xelad - Firmware - Marlin
No i bought it online, it was advertised as milled then brushed finish, it was true when it arrived but not after heating. The website was Metals4U, it was the only placed that offered it so thin, others the minimum was 5mm. Thanksby xelad - General
I think i can chime in here as i have been experimenting recently, bear in mind my bed size is 420 x 420mm so slightly bigger than what you need. Here is what i have tested recently. - 4mm Toughened Glass - Excellent value for money and never seems to be un-even enough to cause problems with first layers, does't shatter with heating cycles but will bow and mould to the shape of an un-even bed, sby xelad - General
I have just ordered a roll of "Carbonyte" from Rigid.ink, i will let you know what its like but its muchos £££by xelad - General
Has anyone seen or heard of a way to get feedback from the Controller like Axis Positions etc? Thanksby xelad - Controllers
Quotearthurwolf Actually, just the raw cost of components for this board, which is the minimal amount that would be deducted here, is a significant fraction of the average salary in China. Being taken that amount from your salary would definitely hurt. Like a lot of chinese controllers, this one is sold with a very low margin. And I'm not sure I follow your logic : They are mean enough to unfaiby xelad - Controllers
Quotearthurwolf I'm sure the cost he will be deducted would be peanuts compared to what people pay in the west for these boards, China's lack of legislation to protect employee's is not a reason not to buy this board, Im sure this behaviour is not limited to MKS only, by your logic buying anything from China is a big no no, and in case you didn't know, EVERYTHING is made in China. The board beiby xelad - Controllers
Why would you want to print on a curved surface, even if you could compensate for it, the part would not be straight.by xelad - General
How big are the parts you are printing? Does printing with less infill help to warp less?by xelad - Printing
Thanks for replies! I have tried Brims and Rafts also with the same result. Maybe this E3D everyday filament is a bit crappy too. Think im going to devote my efforts to PETG or similar from now on. Thanks Alexby xelad - Printing
Hi guys i'm looking for some help/advice/experience. After finally getting my print set up right with the heated bed etc. I've started trying to print ABS, but no matter what i do i just can't seem to get it warp free. Im using E3D Everyday ABS Filament. I've tried all kinds of bed temps from 80c - 130c with all kinds of nozzle temperatures from 230c-250c, using UHU Stick, Hairspray, 3M Painterby xelad - Printing
Yeah it shouldn't be such a big deal once the parts are printed in ABS, however even the belt got too hot and stretched on one attempt.by xelad - Mechanics
The Cork is working well! I have also ordered some Reflect-A-Gold tape, a friend is using it on his Fan Shroud and it is stopping it melting even when touching the hotend!by xelad - Mechanics
Ok Cork it is the, i will get some at lunch and update. Thanks Alexby xelad - Mechanics
Hi guys, i have built a printer based on the gMax 1.5 printer. It has a 450 x 450mm bed size, i have attached a rendered image of the printer below, so you can see how the Y Axis operates: I have a sheet of 4mm bakelite that is fixed to the top the Y Carriage. Then on top of this i have a 1500 Watt 240v AC 450 x 450mm Silicone Heater, with a SSR, it gets upto temperature very easily and very qby xelad - Mechanics
Why not just buy a 3-Pin Plug and take what you need out of it? Maybe what you are looking to create already exists? RCD Plug?by xelad - Experimental and Hobby
The Homing Mechanisms on our 2 large scale CNC are magnetic sensors. Using optical endstops on a machine where dust is likely to be an issue is just crazy anyway. Mechanical is fine imo.by xelad - General
OK so i'll stick Bang-Bang then, thanks for all the help mate, really appreciate it.by xelad - Reprappers
Thanks for the advice! I have bought a sheet of Tufnol/Bakelite to sit between the H Frame and the silicone heater. I got the heater wired up and going last night; it heats up really really quick. It got to 110c in about 35 seconds, and considering it's size i thought that was pretty good going! The cabling and relay stayed perfectly cool when i left it to sit at 110c for about an hour. Heres tby xelad - Reprappers
Hi dc42 and thanks for the reply, so the wiring should be done as i thought, thanks for clearing that up. I am at a bit of standstill on my bed material at the moment, the printer i have built is based on the gMax, i have attached a picture: The Y Axis is a moving carriage, the parts that hold the V Wheel to the carriage are printed, so i need reduce the amount of heat transferring to them (otby xelad - Reprappers
Hi guys, Now my 450 x 450 silicone heat bed has arrived from AliExpress, it was shipped saturday and arrived today so really good going i highly recommend that supplier. Here's my next questions, as the heat bed is 240v i was expecting it to have an earth cable, it doesn't. It only has the Pos & Neg wires, and wires for the thermistor. How does this work when wiring to mains? I thought thby xelad - Reprappers
There isn't enough power, how big is the heater? What PSU are you using?by xelad - General
I had this all the time, what i done was chamfer the end of the PTFE tube so that it seats properly in the heatbreak. I was still getting the odd blockage after i done this but it was much better. So what i did next was reduce the retraction amount, it is currently set at 0.8mm, i haven't had a block since. Maybe it would be easier to play with the retraction settings first. The problem arrivesby xelad - Reprappers
It's either a cabling problem, or you need to adjust the voltage on the stepper driver, try adjusting the voltage. If it has suddenly stopped working then the driver may have gotten too hot and been damaged.by xelad - Mechanics
Get rid of the rods and use V Wheel & Rails.by xelad - Reprappers
Much less hassle to buy another cheap PSU for the bed, and run it through a SSR.by xelad - Reprappers
Quoteetfrench Quotedc42 - Cork sheet under the silicone heater for insulation - Aluminium foil glued on top of the cork sheet to help reflect heat back What is the max temperature you can use with cork insulation? Can it handle long print times at 130c if you're printing polycarbonate? I'm considering using .5" to 1" of PIR under the bed, but still need to investigate a little more to makeby xelad - Reprappers
Quotedc42 A simple mosfet is not suitable for switching AC mains, for two reasons: it does not provide isolation between the input and output, and it can't switch AC because in the reverse direction it conducts regardless of the gate voltage. Use a DC/AC SSR. Be sure to take appropriate safety precautions when using AC mains. In particular: - Any metal parts in the vicinity of mains wiring mustby xelad - Reprappers
Hi, and thanks for the replies. So it is advised that I do not use the MOSFET relay? I dont mind the SSR-40DA, it's very cheap and I would rather it be more than man enough for the job.by xelad - Reprappers