Hi everyone, I have built a 3D Printer with a build volume of approx 460 x 460 x 260mm. Currently i am using a makeshift heated bed setup, as i havn't been able to find a suitable heated bed that fits. Currently i am using 2 240 x 200mm 12V Silicone heaters to heat an area of my print bed. These are powered in parallel using an external 12V PSU and one of these i have made: Its working ok, andby xelad - Reprappers
Yes that was a problem on my current bed system in which i am using 2 smaller silicone heaters, at work i have 2 CNC machines that i use to recess for the wires and thermistor. I have ordered a 450 x 450mm 240V 1500W Heater from that link that you posted, so thanks for that. It is so cheap too! In the UK i couldn't find any heaters that size and voltage, if i did find something similar they wereby xelad - Reprappers
Ooops sorry, i havn't explained myself very well. I am using the Lexan as my bed base, as you say 12mm is very thick and hopefully it will stop the heat from deforming my bed carriage parts, the silicone heaters will be set in the face of the Lexan, and then glass on top. Sorry about that haha.by xelad - Reprappers
Quotedc42 Quotexelad I have a big sheet of 12mm thick Lexan (polycarbonate) that i was going to recess into on my CNC machine for it. Thanks for the link i will message them right now! I can't imagine that you can make a heated bed out of polycarbonate. Like all plastics it is a bad conductor of heat, and even if it doesn't actually melt, the temperature gradient across it will make it warp. Noby xelad - Reprappers
I have a big sheet of 12mm thick Lexan (polycarbonate) that i was going to recess into on my CNC machine for it. Thanks for the link i will message them right now!by xelad - Reprappers
I built a gMax that has a 400 x 400mm Print Area I've made a BOM and also have the whole thing drawn in solidworks (the model is a bit different to the printer now, im currently printing the new parts to rebuild it). I just need to find a heatbed to suit. Preferably mains powered if anyone knows of any. Alexby xelad - Reprappers
I get this when i create surfaces in Solidworks, and then export to STL, i find that if i import these STL's and re-export them as an OBJ i get a solid model and it prints properly... weird right? I use the built in 3d Modelling App on windows to 10 to convert from STL to OBJ, it works pretty well actually.by xelad - Slic3r
Quoteeatumup Thank you all for the suggestions. I kind of like the idea of an independent psu for the heat bed. Im running a 360w 30A PSU. The heat bed resistance I don't know. Its the one that came with my FoldgerTech 2020 prusa i3. If I did run a seperate Power supply for the bed, could I run it though the same ramps board? Im not really sure how the Ramps passes power from the PSU to just theby xelad - RAMPS Electronics
I think the LCD is powered by the 5V rail on the ramps... Turning up the Volts will make the bed hotter, really you should get an external PSU for the bed, a cheap Micro ATX Power Supply be will be enough, i don't like the idea of powering the printer and the bed from the same PSU, it could cause problems. Whats the resistance of the heated bed? Whats the spec of the PSU you are using?by xelad - RAMPS Electronics
The Probe Offset From Z is wrong.by xelad - Reprappers
I would think that is certainly possible, check out this thread: [3dprintboard.com] There is a good modification you can make to accurately tell how level & flat the bed is. I plan on doing this tonight. Alexby xelad - Printing
Well i have tried Roxy's version of the firmware, and although maybe slightly better, the problem still persists, also dont seem to be able to specify how many grid points to probe, or the Z offset from extruder, no matter what i change in the firmware, the values remain the same. I am using a mechanical endstop, the probe provides consistent readings. Running out of options to try, i can remembby xelad - General Mendel Topics
Hi Sean, Thanks for the feedback, when i get back from work i will gather the data you have mentioned and report back. I am also unsure of what version of marlin i am using, to be sure i am going to download the latest version, apply my settings and install onto the printer tonight. I will update as i progress. Thanks Alexby xelad - General Mendel Topics
Hi all, I have built a gMax 1.5 Printer, it is using RAMPS 1.4 & Marlin and it has autobed level setup on it, but since installing the upgrade, not once has it provided a perfect first layer. The adjustments are measured using a 3 x 3 grid, when probing the results seem to be accurate to the actual print bed. However when the printer starts printing the first layer, EVER time, the first layerby xelad - General Mendel Topics
It's telling you that you can't use a decimal for the Y value offset, it needs to be a whole number. Just make it 0.by xelad - General
Hi all, I have built a gMax 1.5 Printer, it is using Marlin and it has autobed level setup on it, but since installing the upgrade, not once has it provided a perfect first layer. The adjustments are measured using a 3 x 3 grid, when probing the results seem to be accurate to the actual print bed. However when the printer starts printing the first layer, EVER time, the first layer is no where neaby xelad - Printing
I am having the same problem, im desperate to try and resolve, have you tried any of the solutions from the link? If i change my probing to 3 arbitrary points, my printer auto levels then goes off in the completely wrong direction...by xelad - Printing
Hi Mate, I'm in the UK too, i bought the cheapest replacement RAMPS 1.4 that was covered by Prime and it has been fine so far. As said previously they are open source so there are no real 'knock offs'. The only downside was that the heated bed FET didn't come with a heatsink but i had one to use from my fried RAMPS.by xelad - RAMPS Electronics
You set the autolevel grid in the firmware, pick minimum and maximum points on both axis then update the values in configuration.hby xelad - General
I think i broke the ramps, as my printer was set to use bang-bang, but i tried to PID autotune on bang bang. So i think this is why the MOSFET is stuck on.by xelad - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, I've built a printer and used a Ramps 1.4 Adruino MEGA 2560. All was going well, i installed a heated bed, it took a couple of minutes to get up to temp, so i did PID autotune, since running the autotune the bed is stuck constantly on, the ramps smells burnt when on, and the LED for the bed is constantly on. Is the board fried? Thanksby xelad - RAMPS Electronics
All sorted now, the voltage needed adjusting.by xelad - General
Ok so i hooked the temp sensor up and im getting more movement out of it, however now it's got the same problem as before, how are the cores paired on the drivers? Are they paired using the letter or numbers? For example, Should 1A & 2A be a pair, or should 1A & 1B be a pair? Thanks Alexby xelad - General
Hi all i'm building a 3d printer using a RAMPS 1.4 with NEMA 17 Steppers and using A4988 Drivers. I had a nightmare with trying to wire the steppers properly, however now i can only seem to get ONE STEP out the steppers then they do not move in either direction after. Would this indicate a problem with my endstops? When checked via Simplify 3D they all check back as open and not triggered. Anyby xelad - General
Well even after wiring up all of the End Stops, the encoder still does not work on my controller. Running out of options now unless its no good the item itselfby xelad - RAMPS Electronics
Ok so i got the encoder working (kind of), i can adjust the print speed from the info screen using the encoder, and i can also click into the menu. However once in the menu i cannot scroll through the options? Is this because i have no Motors or End stops connected? Also once i have clicked into the menu, the encoder will not work at all even to adjust the print speed. Thanks Alexby xelad - RAMPS Electronics
Olaf, Thanks for your reply, i will get the sensors wired up and update. Alexby xelad - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, I have a gMax Printer currently at work, i am using it to build my own printer for home. I'm using the gMax Marlin firmware, however i can't seem to get the LCD controller to work properly.I havn't got any of the motors or sensors plugged into it yet and was just getting it set up and used to how the firmware works. The LCD lights up and gives me the MINTEMP error, however when i clickby xelad - RAMPS Electronics