le problème avec les alimentation de PC, c'est que si on tire beaucoup de courant sur le 12V sans rien consommer sur le 5V, le 12V s'effondre pour corriger ça, il faut soit modifier le circuit de feedback de l'alim (pour les électroniciens avertis) soit charger la sortie 5V avec une résistance ou une ampoule de feux de voiture.by Petrus - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Why buy linear bearings when you can print them : Well, I don't know about durability, the printer is in construction right now, but it slide smoothly.by Petrus - General
For my time-lapses (6 to 8hrs), I use a webcam and I record the video at the lowest rate possible (5fps in my case) I speed up the video by processing only 1/40 of the frames with virtualdub :by Petrus - General
It looks good. Since the end stops are managed by the gen7, you don't need R1,R2, R3 and R4, just tie fdc_min and fdc_max lines (PC3 and PC4) to GND. Yep, you need to cut the board in order to disconnect the driver from the circuit that is connected on the pins that the translator use.by Petrus - General New Machines Topics
I assembled the frame : Even without the diagonal bars, the structure is stiffer than my current printer. To print the large parts, I built a temporary heated bed with copper wire glued to a pizza cardboard, it works fine. To improve the PLA adhesion, I aplied ABS juice (ABS dissolved in acetone): Left : without ABS juice, right : with ABS juiceby Petrus - General New Machines Topics
End stops must be wired to the gen7 board, you will need to tie the end stop signals of the translator (FDC_mix and TDC_max) to GND. Gen7 GND, Translator GND and A2917 GND must be wired together. The Translator +5V needs to be wired to A2917's VCC (pin 40) I02, I01 : OK LEDs : OKby Petrus - General New Machines Topics
I quickly read the datasheet : The signals needed seems to be the same than the drivers I use, so wire them like on my schematic.by Petrus - General New Machines Topics
I uploaded the 3D files of the x axis on thingiverse :by Petrus - General New Machines Topics
I use EM 257 and EM-258 steppers too, I found them in several printers ( Stylus 400, 440, 460, 600, 640) The atmega48 comes from automobile sensor I salvaged at my workplace.by Petrus - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
There is an error on your representation, the translators must be placed between the controller board (arduino or other) and the A2917 drivers. For the controller choice, I cant help much since I use a PC with EMC2 software instead, but I think anyone that can drive a reprap is fine.by Petrus - General New Machines Topics
I finished the X axis assembly : I don't have a powerful enough driver to test the acceleration and speed limits but it works well.by Petrus - General New Machines Topics
Here are the parts for the X axis : It will looks like this once assembled : The pulleys close to the motor are for the timed belt version aka plan B Polycarbonate plate to threaded rod attachment : The pulleys are made with a printed cylinder, two 624ZZ bearings spaced by a drilled M4 nut : I also improved the linear bearing design by inserting a captive nut:by Petrus - General New Machines Topics
Ah oui, en effet la base est en verre, mais pourquoi la recouvrir de kapton ? Le PLA colle très bien sur le verre nu et pour l'ABS, ça fonctionne aussi en mettant une fine couche d'ABS dissous dans de l'acétone.by Petrus - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Pourquoi pas utiliser une base en verre, c'est pas cher, parfaitement plat et très pratique. Pour la partie chaude, on peux en faire une avec des matériaux simple facilement trouvable en magasin de bricolage: Il faut juste de qui pouvoir percer la tige filetée M6 en inox, un tour est l'idéal, mais on peut se débrouiller avec une perceuse à colonne.by Petrus - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
I also use a heated glass bed, I spray some varnish on it when I want to print ABS, the glass is heated at 100°C for the first layer, 80°C after, It sticks very well and pops out by itself when the bed cools. I will try and compare with "ABS juice".by Petrus - Reprappers
It sounds like a temperature issue set support material temperature at the same value than the restby Petrus - Printing
I use the standard EMC2 software, you can download it on The extruder stepper motor is controlled by the 4th axis (A axis) on EMC2. Extruder and bed temperatures are controlled by a dedicated device I made : Oh, and I made new time-lapses :by Petrus - General New Machines Topics
J'utilise google sketchup pour dessiner des pièces en 3D, il est très intuitif, il faut lui ajouter un plugin pour exporter en .stl Pour éditer des modèles plus complexes, j'utilise blender.by Petrus - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
By adjusting the parameters, you can make light support structures that can be easily removed without damaging the printed object. A thing I noticed when I print support structures, the extruder have some inertia so just after the support structure is printed, the extruder doesn't output enough plastic for the part. To avoid this issue, I add A 2mm thick wall in front of the object, so the extrudby Petrus - General
I already built a repstrap that is able to mill polycarbonate and engrave circuit board but it is too slow and not as rigid as I want. So I decided to make a new printer with the same abilities but stronger, faster and self-replicable. It will looks like this : The design is inspired by the triangular frame of the reprap mendel. Differences compared to the standard mendel : - vertical X axis toby Petrus - General New Machines Topics
Sur les imprimantes, on peut aussi récupérer la courroie crantée avec la poulie qui va avec, les capteurs de fin de course optiques, quelques roues dentées. En fait, j'ai fait ma repstrap presque entièrement à partir de vieilles imprimantes : Je peux aussi graver des circuits et fraiser du plastique par petites passes (0,5mm @ 20mm/min) mais elle n'est pas encore assez rigide pour fraiser plusby Petrus - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
+-0,05mm, c'est très bon ! J'ai eu un filament de PLA acheté chez un pro dont le diamètre variait entre 2,6 et 2,9mm.by Petrus - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Excellent boulot ! Le diamètre de sortie est-il précis sur la longueur ?by Petrus - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
here is an example of what I salvaged from an epson stylus color 440 that can be used to build a 3D printer: -1 nema17 stepper motor with pulley -1 imprecise stepper motor (I said they are useless but I think we can use them on the extruder with a 2-stage reduction) -1 timed belt -1 smooth rod (legth = 367mm, diameter=9mm) + carriage with brass bushings -3 opto end stops -gears If you are goodby Petrus - General
The one in the center of the first picture looks good, but is it bipolar (4 wire) : good or unipolar (5 or 6 wires) : bad The other motors are cheap and unprecise steppers or just not steppers motors so they are useless to make a reprap. If you want to salvage stepper motors, old epson printers like the stylus color 4xx, 6xx, 7xx or C86 have at least one good stepper. You can also salvage opto enby Petrus - General
I found a good way to print ABS on a heated glass surface, I sprayed some varnish on the glass, heated it to 100°C for the first layer then lower the temp to 60°C, the printed part stuck verry well on varnished glass an pops out by itself when the bed cools to ambient temperature. The extruder temperature is set to 240°C for the first layer then 210°C, the temperatures may be inaccurate since thby Petrus - General
I also had jamming problem with the first version of my stainless steel extruder : At this time I only used PLA. I shorten the distance between the hot end and cold end and now it works perfectly :by Petrus - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Stepper driver translator schematic and source code : You can find the same steppers drivers in an Epson stylus 460 or 660 if I remember well but if you can't have microcontrollers for cheap, it may be more economic to buy stepper drivers with built-in translator. The steppers power supplies are salvaged from Epson printer I don't have their schematic, the drill power supply is a 12V/4A adaptby Petrus - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I made a small heated bed for printing with ABS : It's a simple circuit board engraved by the printer with the spindle tool. I have to make an other one, The resistance is too high so it takes too long to heat up but I can get 100°C if I supply it with 12V continuously. With this heated bed, I printed some clips to fix the new lighting system (fluorecent tubes from scanners): The PLA clips I mby Petrus - General New Machines Topics
I printed the figurine standing upright :by Petrus - General