Hi, I have the Raprep i3, the print area is 200x200mm, I am wondering if there is a printer that has a bigger print area?by rich1812 - General
Hi, I have the Folger reprap i3, I am tired of the messy hair spray. I am wondering if I can use a Makerbot or othre 3D printer build plate instead? Thx.by rich1812 - Reprappers
It happened to me as well. I found that keeping the bed temp lower (I keep it around 65-70C, seems to help, also I applied a thick even coat of hair spray on a clean bed, wait for it to dry, , then before I print I spray more on the corners where it's likely to buckle so the corners stick better. Also babysit your print, press down the corners once so often before it starts to buckle. It works foby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteCarlcox89 Quoterich1812 QuoteCarlcox89 Related to circles and squares should we really change steps per mm? I mean, we take a 20x20 cube, print it and it comes with 20.5x20.48, we adjust the steps per mm for both X and Y, and print it again, it comes this time with something like 20.03x20.01, nice... but if we print something like 5x5 or 40x40 the steps per mm will be off. Changing the stby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteCarlcox89 Related to circles and squares should we really change steps per mm? I mean, we take a 20x20 cube, print it and it comes with 20.5x20.48, we adjust the steps per mm for both X and Y, and print it again, it comes this time with something like 20.03x20.01, nice... but if we print something like 5x5 or 40x40 the steps per mm will be off. Changing the steps per mm might be exacerbatby rich1812 - Reprappers
Quotesupernielsen I have made the autolevel on my prusa i3 hephestos, this works fine and im actually pretty satisfied, its set to print 0,1mm over the bed, and i feel the prints are a little more consistent and in great quality, however the travel speeds is a bug for me, you have to put it all the way down till the z-axis can keep up, something like 150mm/min in my situation. But i would say goby rich1812 - Reprappers
Thank you all for your reply. QuoteDust That add in so many complexities... That wold mean the highest thing you could print would be no higher than than length of your hot end. or the rest of the machine will hit and break the exsisting print. less of an issue with deltas, but the software would still need to know the size of you effector to space the parts wide enough aprt to they dont get hby rich1812 - Reprappers
Is the oval longer on the X or Y axis? This happened to me once before , As it turned out that the Y pulley was jammed in the U shape holder.by rich1812 - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist The only improvement autoleveling offers is eliminating the need for you to manually level the print bed before starting a print. If your printer is solidly built and doesn't need frequent releveling, autoleveling is sort of pointless. Haha, so that's the lazy man's way out. So far I have been doing it by hand and my prints came out rather nicely, I am only wondering ifby rich1812 - Reprappers
Hello, I put two or more objects in Sli3r So that I only need one code t print them all. It seems the gcode sli3r generated is prints all object simultaniously one layer at a time. Is it possible to make it print one object until it is completely done then move on to the next object? Does any one know of a program can do that? Thanks.by rich1812 - Reprappers
Thank you all for affirming my thought. The way I set it up, the spooler canr spin freely with very little resistance and the spooler can move left and right some what as the X axis pulls it.by rich1812 - Reprappers
Hi, I heard a lot about this auto level, how does it work exactly? Does it really improve the print quality? is it difficult to install? lastly, if I want to get one can someone recommend a link ? Thanks.by rich1812 - Reprappers
Hi, ever since I built the printer, I have it set up like this (pic.) It has been working great. The other day, a friend come over, he told me that it is not good to have the extruder motor to drag the filament, Is it true?by rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteOhmarinus You could instead design the part already with honeycombs in it and just print it like it is? Surely would be easier/faster to achieve. Yeah, I already tried that, design the honeycomb in Blender, but the print out looks like crap.by rich1812 - Printing
Hi, I thought the honeycomb infill looks really cool when exposed. so I test printed a solid beam with honeycomb infill, in Slic3r 1.1.7, I set it not to ptint the top and bottom layer, please see attached pic, that looks pretty cool right? Now ehat I want to do is, on the two ends of the beam, I want to have two solid pieces but I can't think of any way to have two different infills. Any suggesby rich1812 - Printing
Hi waitaki, you are so right about the temperature setting in Slic3r, I set the all to 0s now and once the temperatures reaches the target. It prints as soon as I click the print button.by rich1812 - Reprappers
Quotewaitaki If you are using Slicr3, go to the "Filament settings" tab, select "Filament" and set all (4) temperatures to 0 (zero). Create the g-code for your chosen file. If your have switched your hot-end and bed on to prepare for printing (ensuring they are up to temp) then as soon as you hit print, it will start immediately. It is always a good idea to switch the bed on first because of theby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteIMBoring25 The hot end typically has low thermal inertia and doesn't take long to get to temperature. You're probably waiting for your heated bed to come to temperature which, despite lower operating temperatures, takes much longer due to high thermal inertia. You can: 1) Make sure the heated bed power is adjusted properly. 2) Experiment with lower heated bed temperatures and see if youby rich1812 - Reprappers
Hello, I am curious why after I loaded a code file in Macpronter, between I press the print button and the printer does the actual printing, there is usually a wait time, sometimes longer. (At the time of printing, I already have the extruder per-heated to the correct temperture.) During this wait time, what wxactly is the printer doing? And how can this wait time be shorten? Thanks.by rich1812 - Reprappers
All too often, marketers use words that are misleading or words that are ambiguous or polysemic. Since the term open-source is so ubiquitous in the computer world, when one sees the word open, naturally will associate it with open source.I do not trust companies and corporations use this type of shadowy marketing tactic. I bet once they get their "open" platform 3d printer off the ground, they wiby rich1812 - General
I found Blender works very well for me now since I can't afford and cannot justify an expensive CAD software. Funny thing is I wanted to learn to use Blender for the longest time but I HATED it, The interface was confusing for me at best. All these Object mode, Edit mode blah, blah, blah...Then there are all these key short cuts, and I am a Mac user, so all the num pad short cuts don't apply toby rich1812 - General
Hi, I am wondering how to print suzanne the monkey head from Blender I tried without much success because there are so many parts of Suzanne are suspended from the plate. In general, I am not sure how to print any objects that contains protruded and suspended parts. As you can see it collapsed on both sides. Also I couldn't print it by the in the upright position so I rotated it to lie on a flatby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteZavashier You're welcome. I bought Folger's and did not manage to print anything properly with that extruder. I'm printing ABS only so it's high temperature and Folger's extruder is not at his best with me. Some people have acceptable print quality with Folger's, so I hope you'll manage to print properly. For the Z axis, the formula is : steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteZavashier Ok, let's make it easy : steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / (belt_pitch * pulley_number_of_teeth) For example : (200 steps*16 microsteps)/(GT 2mm * 20 tooth) = 80 As simple as that You can't have good prints without a printer proper setup or you're the luckiest man on earth. Thank you everyone for your replies. @ Zavashier, I really like how you summarizedby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteZavashier Ok, let's make it easy : steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / (belt_pitch * pulley_number_of_teeth) For example : (200 steps*16 microsteps)/(GT 2mm * 20 tooth) = 80 As simple as that You can't have good prints without a printer proper setup or you're the luckiest man on earth. That's the thing, I have not looked into these: motor_steps_per_rev, driver_microstby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteZavashier Just a question, where from comes 78.7402 ? Don't you have regular GT pulleys ? It looks like you modified these values to get a cube of desired dimensions. You should not, because these values compensate only for THAT cube, any larger or smaller part will be unlikely distorted. I dunno why that stupid adjusting process is still in use today ! Somebody please write calibration forby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteSupraGuy At least for Marlin... Look in the Configuration.h file for a line like the following: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,4000.0,128.5} It shoud be about 2/3 of the way down the file. This is the list of values is for the various axes of the printer. 80.0 steps per mm for X, 80.0 steps per mm for Y, 4000.0 steps per mm for Z, and 128.5 steps per mm for the extruderby rich1812 - Reprappers
Thank you all for putting with a noob like me. After some tinkering, Finally I am able to produce some decent looking prints. yay! One thing still bugs me tho, it seems ver inconsistance on the extruder, for most part the filament comes out fine as a nic smooth thread, but sometimes it just drips of, makes a small droplet, once that happens, the layer has a tiny gap, how can I improve this? Thanby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteSupraGuy Looks like: Z axis too many steps per mm. This will cause the print head to get further and further away from the part, until you get gaps forming like that. To check, measure the part, and compare to where it THINKS that the Z axis is. If the part is longer, then your Z axis needs to be recalibrated. Extruder too few steps pre mm. This will cause the extruded filament to be too tby rich1812 - Reprappers
I followed this guide , and I am getting step closer to get a finer print. This test print-bad1.jpg for example, was printing ok until it gets to near the to, the filament starts to break up. What caused that? temperature? Z axis? Extruder motor?by rich1812 - Reprappers