Yes, you can drive the little steppers just the same as the "big" ones, there's no essential difference between them. Just make sure you're driving them within their spec current and voltage. Idea of carrying an extra stepper (although a smaller one) instead of a hobby servo seems a bit excessive. You want to reduce the moving mass at all cost – that is why tiny plastic servos are used in the fiby toxuin - Mechanics
It is quite an awesome machine. I’ve built one and I must say it’s very solid. People say it’s on the expensive side of things, but I was able to use cheaper conponents and CNC’d the plates myself. It can actually print upside down and on the side just fine, and since it has no sticking out parts I can print in my car during road trips. It is indeed very portable and mighty machine for it’s size.by toxuin - General
Hello. This part of forum is rather quiet, but that is not because there are no people in the region busy with reprap things, but more because their reprap stuff is not that region-related. There aren't any events going on as far as I know. I myself am from the region, but I keep my posts in global (non-region related) parts of the forum.by toxuin - Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group
I know this would probably be considered a necro-posting, but I've succeeded in making my own IR sensor with following parts: Phototransistor: SFH 3100 F, C$0.77 each IR LED: SFH 4045N, C$1.13 each All of them are available from digikey in minimum quantities of 1. Yes, LEDs are SMD, but so are almost all of the remaining parts. Phototransistor seems to have wide enough viewing angle to work juby toxuin - Ormerod
What are you guys are talking about? "Buy a kit"? "Don't spend your time?" Where's reprapiness in that? Where is the fun in buying ready-made thing? Kits are just like IKEA furniture – you can assemble a table, but that does not make you a carpenter. I am pretty sure dude's son will appreciate the adventures of "let's design a robot out of car shocks and soda cans and that will run on toothpaste,by toxuin - Mechanics
I am not sure if I should report this as a bug to octoprint, here, to the github or it might be my sore brain – in octoprint I cannot see any SD card contents. I tried to switch to different M555 modes and toggle "automatic firmware detection" feature of octoprint. I can see the files if I manually send M20 command. Also, octoprint freaks out if M555 is in native mode (no ok sent?).by toxuin - Controllers
I am looking forward to this feature! I use a printer that has two Z motors, currently in parallel. I like maso's idea of pivoting around a point, but this requires two SEPARATE motors for just levelling, to move the whole bed up and down you still need another one\set. My motor configuration is two motors are sitting in the middle of each side of the bed (two sides). Bed is machined cast aluminuby toxuin - Duet
Is there a drop-in translation electronics to use heavy geared dc motor instead of a stepper? I have a couple of small and light DC motors with planetary gearbox strapped to them. Would gladly try them out as a candidate for "less weight more speed". If I remember correct, DC motors have a decent torque at low speed. This makes them a perfect candidate for use in an extruder motor. Also, I believby toxuin - General
So did anyone experiment with their tiny motors? What are the results? Could you share extruder design? I happen to have some tiny motors lying around, but I suppose they're too tiny to work as any decent extruder. One particular motor I could find a spec for is KP35FM2. Rated for 24V @ 500mA, it has holding torque of 700 g-cm (0.067 Nm). According to DC42's formula and my hobbed bolt diameter itby toxuin - General
If I remember correct you can just replace a throat on 3mm to adapt a 1.75 plus push a PTFE liner into the wide part of the heat break. You are right, it is not that hard to machine a V6 heatsink (which is a biggest part on the blueprint) so one's impression would be it must be not really hard to machine all other parts too. However this is not the case with such a delicate part as a hotend. Mosby toxuin - General
I had some chinacopy heatbreaks lying around since dark days of me struggling to push plastic through Chinese engineering "masterpieces" reliably enough, I just polished them with spinning some steel wool inside and coated them with WS2. They now work fine. My remark about the high price for a pre-coated heatbreak was related to a price comparison against those things, not to un-coated throats frby toxuin - General
QuoteElmoC...matterhackers link... Lol that sounds like too high a price for someone to apply the coating for you. Process is really straightforward. QuoteDjDemonDWould you coat your smooth rods with it? How durable is it? I recoat my heatbreak right when I eat up a roll of plastic (1kg). Never had a jam in the heatbreak ever since. About the rods – I don't think this is really necessary if youby toxuin - General
According to the picture you've posted, your heat break (a.k.a "throat") is not aligned with the nozzle. This gives you that "step" on the filament. It is a manufacturing defect and nothing could be done about it. You should get a new hotend. Get an E3D-Light, buddy. If you've went for a clone I don't think you care wheter your hotend can reach 400C or not, so buy yourself a cheap version of oriby toxuin - General
So here's an idea for the RepRap community: why not make a platform for hardware developers like Brian where they could sell their designs? Like Amazon, but for makers (and without all that amazon crap). Think of it as of farmer's market for hardware designs. Someone sits in his garage right now with thousands bucks of precise tools inventing something new and cool. And he thinks "nope, bot gonby toxuin - General
Hello, Project is not abandoned at all. I am finishing my bachelor's thesis currently and therefore had to take a pause. I will resume in aabout a month after I graduate. RepRapFirmware uses two queues for commands, Repetier just mirrors everything, as far as I know. About pull-requests to Repetier dev - they were surprisingly fast to accept (although author worked out some flaws out of my code)by toxuin - Developers
My Repetier-based machine shows a "printed filament" length statistics that is stored in EEPROM I guess. Same way it could store precise used up length of current roll in EEPROM. We deterimine the "current roll" by a file on sd card - either it's header or it's checksum. Switching between the rolls is as easy as swapping (renaming?) a file on SD. I haven't seen any accessible filament width sensby toxuin - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Sorry for the confusion. That's just me and my ~amazing~ soldering skills. Probe now works quite stable, I confirm. I haven't flash a newer version you've linked yet, but I must say that OctoPrint talks with the "old" version just fine. I'll still try newer version with RepetierHost. Flashing with bossac just requires me to boot up a Windows machine.by toxuin - Controllers
I will try it, thank you! Also, I've noticed that although Z probe works, it is very inconsistent. Sometimes it triggers while airborne 100 mm above bed. Does the pin 39 have any pullup\pulldown modes? My sensor is PNP, I use it with 12V, 4.7k and 12k resistors which should produce a ~ 3.3V output. Fun fact: when I connect it to Z endstop pins – it is super-consistent. What am I doing wrong?..by toxuin - Controllers
Inductive probing works! Here's what I've put on my config file: M558 P4 X0 Y0 Z1 H3 ; Probe emulates a switch, used for homing only Z axis M574 E0 S0 ; Probe output is inverted = active high G31 Z0.30 ; Margin between probe trigger point and the nozzle I've noticed RepetierHost now "looses connection" to the board quite often although I haven't changby toxuin - Controllers
Hello! I am trying to build a filament extruder – the one that produces rolls of filament from pellets by smelting them and extruding through a nozzle. I know that some filaments you can buy online that even are made on factories with quality control and stuff (yeah, right) can be pretty inconsistent in thickness. So here's my idea: while the filament is extruded on "factory" it's precise thickby toxuin - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Thanks! I will test that one out and let you know the results. I am currently using a relatively old build so it is time to update anyways :-)by toxuin - Controllers
Hello, guys. Where do I connect a inductive Z probe on RADDS?.. Probe model is LJ18A3-8-Z/BX. I wired it up through a voltage divider so it outputs a 3.2 V when triggered. A perfect replacement for normally-open Z min switch, but a manual for Duet says I need to connect it to E0 endstop. There is also a reference in code to E0_AXIS, but it is not in Pins.h for RADDS.by toxuin - Controllers
Make sure your Y axis is aligned. If you are using a Melzi that was going with the printer - you probably having not enough current supplied to Z motors. Lubricate the brass nut on the threaded rod and align both nuts properly. Make sure your Y axis goes up and down freely if you turn both leadscrews by hand (carefull, you'll need to re-align your Y axis again after you do this test). First upgraby toxuin - Reprappers
What is the unit of holding torque in your formula? I am trying to calculate this for a 48mm NEMA 17 motor with holding torque of 5.5 kg-cm (0.54 N-m) rated for 1.5A per phase (running at let's say 1.2A) at 1/128 microstep settings (1164 microsteps per mm). (1.2 / 1.5) * 5.5 * 1164 = 5121.6 If that's right that should mean my motor that I would consider to be pretty beefy is actually not beefyby toxuin - Reprappers
Your language is far better than some other members! I'd suggest you keep posting in english. You might as well maintain a more detailed instructions in Russian subforum (any posting stimulates it's development I guess) if you feel like it. Hey, keep it up! You're doing a great job. I didn't want to discourage you with my comments. I am sorry. After all, reprap spirit has no nationality. We shareby toxuin - Developers
I think Slic3r wasn't used for things like octoprint not because of poor performance, but because the command line Slic3r does not provide any way of getting a progress – there's no way of telling if it hang up, still slicing. Same thing with result: there's no waay to tell if command-line slic3r has succeeded or failed. Octoprint works with Cura pretty well on raspberry pi 2. It takes time to slby toxuin - General
How about a more generic approach: run a .sh script whenever a RFID tag is detected? This .sh changes lines in cura profile directly and then in Octoprint you should just click "slice".by toxuin - General
This is great! I would love to see a proof of concept. SPI mode should give us about 100 kb/s transfer (?). This is not much, I know, but compared to 3 kb/s on Repetier now this is a BREAKTHROUGH. I am expecting it to be much more stable than spitting letters over serial, too. It would require an extra connector, probably even motherboard-specific one, so probably SD takeover will be optional. Duby toxuin - Developers
@lhartmann I love this idea! There are couple of things I'd like to mention: According to the RepRapFirmware source code there is no way to unmount an SD-card with G-code. However, there are methods to release and init the card, they're just not implemented as G-codes. Repetier firmware does support M22 (unmount) command. So I guess I will be (eventually) implementing your idea on Repetier firstby toxuin - Developers
So I've bought a Due from China recently and it was not working with RepRapFirmware (in fact, with any other firmware too). It was giving me -55 degrees on all thermistors and nothing else. So I managed to fix it and here's how: I've put a potentiometer on A0 pin as described here and turned it a few times. At about half the way to 100% it started to give me 1023 (aka maximum) – that can't be rigby toxuin - Controllers