My guess is you need to get the bed closer to the nozzle.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethe_digital_dentist You can add some small parts along side your main part that will cause the raft to get bigger. The extra small parts don't have to be big and waste material- just a small disc 2mm high or something similar will be enough to trick Slic3r into making a bigger raft. Good idea! Thanks!by msaeger - Slic3r
I am printing objects with a very small area contacting the build plate. I have been having trouble with them coming loose. I have been using a brim but I think a raft may work better the issue is if I turn on the raft it prints too small to really help. Is there a way to make the raft larger?by msaeger - Slic3r
Quotesonnylowe Well I finally got all my hardware and had a chance to put the printer back together. So far the new X (V-2) setup is a winner!! I like it much better than V-1, much more compact, and it will allow a smaller enclosure if I decide to go that direction...and no more X-motor hanging off the side!!! My main objective with this verison was to make the setup more compact which resultedby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn Trying to print my first ever calibration cube. When I load the 20 mm cube stl file into the repetier host, click slice, then click print. Nothing happens. All of a sudden the image of the cube disappears. I can see the heat bed temperature rising but the extruder temperature doesn't rise at all (it does but very very slowly). I've already tested my extruder at 230 C so I know iby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach So I just found out that Folger Tech came out with a new printer a month ago, thought anyone on it? This one? I saw an ad for this one and didn't know if it was new or not.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBlisk Quotemsaeger Diluted elmers applied with a brush works good when I have an issue leveling the bed and getting the nozzle closer fixes it. Are you using a brim? I always use a brim too. Sorry don't know what you mean. Diluted elmers is that a elmer glue which is mixed with water? Also don't know what is brim? What temperature do you use for heatbed and extruder? Yep just white elmersby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDavewerld Hi again all, I'm back at the printer after a sabbatical forced on me by a few deadlines. I started up the printer finally and got some really nice prints with whatever material the green stuff Folger tech sent with the printer. I bought a roll of ABS and it didn't print as well, even following the temp guidelines I found saying 230 for extruder and 100 for the bed. So I thought tby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Diluted elmers applied with a brush works good when I have an issue leveling the bed and getting the nozzle closer fixes it. Are you using a brim? I always use a brim too.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
From what I have seen the PLA softens pretty easy so I wouldn't use it for anything near heat. You could try PETG. That melts at about the same temp as ABS.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBastion Hi. So i just bought and built the i3 2020 and got most of the calibrations done to it, the X,Y, and Z axis are all moving well and stopping where they need to stop but the problem that I am having is that the extruder will not extrude filament when instructed to do so, it makes a clicking noise and wont feed unless I press down on the filament entrance lever. So I did some diggingby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteseabass07 Thanks! I'm guessing I need that ceramic screw driver that I've already destroyed. That or a plastic one.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Here is a picture from the back and of the holes I drilled into the folgertech bed plate (and you get to see the sassy towel I use when working on the printer so I don't scratch the kitchen table): The new endstop works well (if someone is going to build the y-axis, let me know and I'll give you the STL). Whatever length I eyeballed the piece to be cut at worked out perfectly.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks good how about a picture from the back? I need to get working on mine.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts I'm so embarrassed. I've been printing up a storm with parts for my quadcopter, replacement parts for the printer, trinkets, etc. The prints have been getting better as I've tweaked things. Until I printed the fan duct for a second extruder fan. I think my prints are mirrored. Back to square one. lol. For all those posts I flew by from people asking about X and Y-min, directiby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe QuoteMach Thanks everyone. I am planning on doing sonnylowe's Y axis mod, and I did not want to have to go to a machine shop to get it cut. I am hoping doing it with a hacksaw will not be to difficult due to the extrusion being solid; fingers crossed. Mach, I also used a chop saw, it works great. If you're doing the X mod don't break the edge off the rail until you run it througby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMopar99 therippa, What version of firmware do i need for the E3D-v6 HotEnd? I notices there is 3 different firmware for this on your github. I'm running a stock printer with E3D-v6 direct drive hotend upgrade only. Anyone, Whats a good way to edit an STL file. I have one that i want to make a small change to but haven't figure out how. I'm using 123d Design with Meshmixer. thanksby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
How about if you raise the Z axis above the bed and extrude using manual control. Did you scratch the glass or metal plate on top of heated bed pcb or the pcb? Wouldn't think it would be a big deal unless you scratched the pcb enough to cut a trace.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn Nvm it works now! Thanks again, Also to anyone else on this forum, Im in config mode now. Both my z motors turn but the threaded rods dont move, they kind of like stutter as if something is blocking their movement. Any tips? You either have too much load from something being misaligned or you need to adjust the driver current.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I am just using glue for ABS. When I have trouble with it sticking it's usually because the bed isn't leveled good enough or I need to clean the glass and reapply more glue.by msaeger - General
Quotesonnylowe Quotemsaeger Quotesonnylowe Quotesonnylowe Quotemsaeger Quotesonnylowe Quotetherippa sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon. Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?) FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly,by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Quotesonnylowe Quotemsaeger Quotesonnylowe Quotetherippa sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon. Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?) FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjusby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJ-Max Hi guys, This print could have been worst. Usualy you setup with PLA, i believe PETG helps a lot here. Yes, this par is all about printing in the air. This is a real benchmark part. This part is meant to be printed right with a perfectly calibrated printer with efficient fans. The down side of the part can't be perfect without a part cooling fan anyways. But look at the imperfectionsby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Quotetherippa sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon. Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?) FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to... If you going toby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I think the biggest issue was the whole piece sagging because when I was watching it at the 70 part when it would do the shell of the overhanging part it would print it in the air so there would be a gap between the shell and the piece until it did the infill. Setting it to do the infill first may have been better or just getting it to the the outer most shell last. With something like this I aby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Is there a way to make the raft extend further past the object? I could do a brim and a raft but can I just make the raft larger? It seems to barley extend past the part so it isn't very good for holding down a thing that not contacting the build plate much.by msaeger - Slic3r
QuoteJ-Max @msaeger, your extruder is not so bad calibrated. But it have the same issue than most of direct drive extruders, especialy @ 1.8°. Definition of feeding is not perfect because the number of steps per millimeter is low. That's why a 0.9° motor is much better for direct drives. The quality of the driving gear is also important, you want a small toothed one, like MK7/MK8. The play of yoby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Here's mine It's PETG because that's what I have in there and I don't have a print cooling fan so I know PLA would just droop. Now I have to get back to making Braqby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you tried using 123d catch or some other photogramatry program? I have not tried but the 3dprintingtoday podcast guys are always talking about photogramatry.by msaeger - Reprappers
I would just get the Microcenter stuff. It has been good for me and I wouldn't want to take the chance getting 4 rolls and it ends up being crap. Also Microcenter has PETG for 18 bucks a roll and that seems to me to have the good properties abs has I like (bridges and overhangs work good) and is easy to get to stick.by msaeger - Printing