Test each of the drivers individually in each socket. See if you have shorts in the soldering. Cut that diode though. I don't recommend using it.by jcabrer - RAMPS Electronics
Do you have the diode installed on the RAMPS. If so, cut it.by jcabrer - RAMPS Electronics
The card edge connector can't be standard if everyone has to make their own. > Agreed. However it won't be possible to have the > machine switch extruder heads all by itself, which > as I recall was one of your design goals. Not one of my goals. Somebody else. I just like swapping out extruders for PLA and ABS easily, not automatically.by jcabrer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
(I want to get an idea of how much demand there would be for a TechZone "Plan-B" kit. Please leave your comments.) Ever since I began building my RepRap Mendel Prusa, I've been helping others to follow in my footsteps with advice in the forums, and one-on-one help, but I've limited myself to dealing mainly with topics related to my Prusa. I recently saw a request for help in the Southern Caliby jcabrer - General
Hi Greg, That idea has some appeal to me, but keep in mind that we are talking about ten (10) or more terminals that have to be screwed and unscrewed whenever you want to change out an extruder. Not to mention the risk of wiring something up wrong after many changes. I'm actually looking at your most recent extruder to see where I can put a DB-15 on standoff. A shim between the stepper motorby jcabrer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I use 1/4 inch acrylic. Now at one point, before I got my heated bed (PC, I tried using a hot air gun to keep parts warm while printing, and the bed warped a bit. I put it between two pieces of granite tile after heating everything with the gun, and it was then straighter than ever, so that was good. When I got my heated bed, I was a little concerned that the heat would also warp the acrylic.by jcabrer - General Mendel Topics
download netfabb basic. Maybe you can fix the file there, or save in another format SW unserstands.by jcabrer - General Mendel Topics
An edge card connector requires skills (PCB etching), and components (edge connectors and crimping tools) that are not readily available to RepRap builder at every level. If it's going to be a standard, it needs to be somewhat within reach for the average person. The benefit of using DB cables are many. DB-15 and DB-9 connectors only require soldering (assuming the pins are fixed), and the sheby jcabrer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I just posted the first rev. of the aMESS RAMPS enclosure on thingiverse. aMESS stands for arduino Modular Enclosure System Stack, and is a series of stackable modules for creating decent -looking arduino things. Enjoy, and please leave comment if you see room for improvement. I want these to be really useful.by jcabrer - RAMPS Electronics
I've been developing this hot end design for about three months, and it is proving to be very reliable. Image is not representative of the kit. Just some of the components Look here for more information on the Wildseyed Simple Hot End design. Kit includes: 1 - Greg's Hinged Extruder Body 1 - Greg's Hinged Extruder Large Gear 1 - Greg's Hinged Extruder Small Gear 1 - Greg's Hinged Extruder Iby jcabrer - For Sale
You have a bigger problem in your camera, I think :^) RepSnapper does not use SkeinForge for its internal method of slicing (which they call "shrinking"). Many features you see in SF are just no possible in RepSanpper using the internal slicing, so don't pursue this too far, expecting results that look like what SF produces. For one thing, if you select more than one outside layer, RepSnapperby jcabrer - Reprappers
They never wear out (so far). I've printed 15 pounds of PLA and ABS on one set of bushings, and they look good as new. The smooth rods I have are just zinc-plated. Having really smooth rod helps with this of course. Installing new ones depends on how strong the adhesive is that was used to attach them in the first place. I used two part epoxy, but I think there may be problems removing thisby jcabrer - General Mendel Topics
1. To make troubleshooting simple, you will need to disable hardware endstops in the firmware, and re-flash the Arduino. The reason for this is that improper configuration of the endstops is one of the most common causes for axes not moving. Disable the hardware endstops in Tesla893's tonokit firmware by editing the file configuration.h and changing the lines that read const bool x_min_hardwaby jcabrer - RAMPS Electronics
Are you running RAMPS with a new MEGA?by jcabrer - RepSnapper
All of those tabs were consolidated and moved into menus.by jcabrer - RepSnapper
I use small heat shrink (clear) tubing around the thermistor wires. I then cover those with a larger clear tube. The thermistor and power resistor are held to the heater block with three layers emergency tape stretched to moderate tightness. My power resistors are encased in an anodized aluminum shell, so there is less proximity to the other metal surfaces. Avoid sharp bends in the wires, andby jcabrer - General
I have pluggable terminal blocks now. It was the first attempt. The problem is that the fit is really tight, and this can lead to damage when trying to disconnect.by jcabrer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
It's the manual extrude before printing that does the trick. Let's say that you start a print, and for whatever reason, you pause it in RepSnapper, and then you click restart. The counter on the extruder axis wants to go back to Zero for the restrat. The end result is that the extruder turns backwads. Same scenario, you pause, but before hitting restart, you manually extrude. At the end of tby jcabrer - Skeinforge
I can sell you one. The problem with getting the pre-assembled kits from Ultimachine is that they sell out of the PCBs before they can even get one put together. Let me know if you are interested, and I will PM you with my information. I have them complete with Pololu Drivers and Arduino MEGA. There is a markup over Ultimachine's price. That's because I bought mine from them as well, so therby jcabrer - Controllers
For the electronics, I recommend RAMPS. It's a very compact, clean device, and has everything you need right there. I use a firmware called Sprinter. It supports hardware-based motion acceleration, which give really smooth operation at high speeds. The extruder can go slow or fast, depending. I don't think you will have too much problem with that. I would recommend that you start with proveby jcabrer - Developers
You're not too too far from me. If you want we can meet up next Saturday and compare notes. I had a lot pf trouble getting SF to work initially, but I'm getting really good results all of a sudden. The trick for me was not changing too many things at once, and turning off all of the features that were not essential. I've also gotten decent prints using RepSnapper and its native slicing with Pby jcabrer - General
Grab the portable skeinforge from the wiki. It's precompiled so it has no dependencies.by jcabrer - General
Well, fir me the solution has been to abandon the current approach, and try something else. I found a Portable Skeinforge on the wiki, both 40 and 41, and I disabled all of the functions that try and pull filament back in. Even with this, the extruded was turning backward when I started to print in RepSnapper. I finally figured out the the SF generated gcode was trying to perform a HOME on theby jcabrer - Skeinforge
Ok, you need to enable comb. It makes the print head move around inner holes to prevent/reduce stringers there. Also, turn up your extrusion multiplier in RepSnapper. Not in the printer settings, but in the Print Tab. Last, make sure your layer thickness in SF is set somewhere between 3 and 4by jcabrer - General
Hey John, The calibration part is really small. I'm not sure getting good results on it is going to get you to the optimal settings for all things you want to print. Try the Wade's gear and see how that turns out. There is a bridge test part on thingiverse that you can try as well, although I think that one is also a bit small.by jcabrer - General
If it is a skipped step, then the shift will show up on both sides of the part on the axis where it skipped. I've noticed that I get skipped steps on the Y axis when one of the extruder wires breaks or becomes intermittently loose. You should check and make sure that is not the case.by jcabrer - General
If you have acceleration turned on in software on RepSnapper, you will get what seems like a slowdown in small rounded corners, due to the large number of straight line segments (short ones) in the arcs. Try with acceleration turned off.by jcabrer - General
I'm going to work on this...by jcabrer - General
Does anybody know the details regarding where the current RepSnapper development is going on? There seems to be quite a bit of chaos around this software, and documentation is sparse, so I'm resorting to having a look at the source code to see what's what. I have found at least three groups working on the code. Seems to be very active, but I've never heard of these guys. Everything seems toby jcabrer - RepSnapper
It sounds to me like you don't have a thermistor installed. Is that correct? If so, then your problem will be solved by adding a thermistor. I don't know how one would bypass this requirement though...by jcabrer - RAMPS Electronics