without starting a print, but just using the manual interface in Pronterface, can you home all the axes normally and move them to the extremes without issues?by brucehvn - Reprappers
With your aluminum flexible coupling, do you allow the threaded rod to sit directly on the motor shaft? It has been recommended to put a ball bearing or bb in between the threaded rod and motor shaft to allow the coupler to fully do what it's supposed to do.by brucehvn - Printing
The temperature setting is determined by the gcode, not Repetier Host. What slicer are you using? You should check your settings there to make sure it's setting the proper temperature for printing. Repetier will let you set the temperature for manually heating up the hot end. That's configurable in the settings. But that's not the temperature that will be used for printing.by brucehvn - Printing
Quotecahlfors I can't manage to upload any pictures, but it's a simple axial fan. What do you guys do to succeed with overhangs? Thanks! /Chris We really need to see what you are trying to print in order to help. Did you design this yourself, or did you download an STL file from somewhere? If you have an STL file, can you provide it here in place of photos? Providing the STL file and/or phoby brucehvn - Printing
Quotevreihen Quotestoof could you elaborate on "crunchy?" Some of my MINI V-slot wheels turn "crunchy" when assembled and torqued, sort of like they are lacking lubrication or have a speck or two of sand on the bearings. I have read other people complaining about the problem, which may be limited to one batch of the mini-V wheels. The problem doesn't seem to cause any problems on my delta prinby brucehvn - Reprappers
Your acceleration looks too high. Here are the settings I'm currently using. Don't know if they are optimal, but they work well. #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {1000, 1000, 2, 1500} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {600,600,20,333} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATIONby brucehvn - Printing
If one of the z motors is stuttering, then that usually points to the stepper driver voltage settings not being high enough. Also, you need to make sure the z threaded rods are not binding in any way. When I first put together my i3, the threads in the m5 rod had some gunk in them and it would cause similar behavior when it would hit the gunk. I ended up having to run an m5 nut up and down theby brucehvn - General
Yeah, if the bed and extruder were already to temp, then when you start the print, it would immediately home and then start printing. You said you are using preconfigured marlin? You mean the one supplied from DIYTechShop? I also bought an i3Alpha from them, but never used their marlin. I got the current version of marlin from github and started with that. It could possibly be your speed setby brucehvn - Printing
Ok, so normally what would happen when you start the print would be it would first start heating the bed and you won't see anything else happen until the bed reaches temperature which might take 10 min or more. Then it will home all the axes and raise the z by 5mm, and then wait for the hot end to get heated up to temperature. Once that is done, then it will start actually moving to the initialby brucehvn - Printing
Doc, Any new photos of your build?by brucehvn - Reprappers
Quotestoof Vreihen (and whoever else may apply), could you elaborate on "crunchy?" I recently bought a set of v-slot and wheel kits to test it out to make a new large format printer for myself. I like the setup, but I'm hesitant to stick with them as linear rails because I'm not experiencing very smooth motion. As I move the carriage up and down the rails by hand it feels like the wheels areby brucehvn - Reprappers
QuoteFA-MAS I've got the offset right with that method. I'm saying that if you look at the gcode, slic3r moves the nozzle up the distance set as the 1st layer in the settings (G0 Z0.35 in my example) from where the autolevel measured Z0 thus making it's true height off the bed Z0.45 and then the layer's not squished enough. After you figured out your z offset, put that in your firmware and flasby brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
Hmm, 69 degrees seems kind of cold. Maybe try pointing some incandescent light bulbs, 60 to 100W towards the build plate during printing just to see if that helps. Or try covering the printer with a box if you have one big enough.by brucehvn - Printing
Like jbernardis said, in the slicer configuration under the printer tab is the start g code. You can edit that and remove the offending line. Just make sure you are slicing with that printer configuration.by brucehvn - Printing
QuoteUkIan Do you have a link to the blade you have? Many thanks! It's this saw Home Depot. It comes by default with a carbide tipped blade and from what I read, that should be sufficient for the aluminum extrusions. Bruceby brucehvn - General
I've seen posts about using a miter saw with a carbide blade for cutting aluminum extrusions. I purchased one for that purpose but have not actually cut anything yet. If your pieces are less than 4 or 5 inches in depth, the miter saw might work.by brucehvn - General
If anybody is interested, Fry's electronics here in the states is having a sale on the Velleman K8200 this week. $300 off the normal price of $799, so only $499. Frys.comby brucehvn - General
You should be able to feed your filament into the hot end when it's cold until it stops. Have you calibrated your e-steps yet? At least a rough calibration of that should be done before you try and print anything.by brucehvn - Reprappers
When I had warping issues with ABS on large parts, I followed some advice on another thread here and changed my bed settings to 115c for the first layer and 85c for the rest, along with switching to glue stick from hairspray. Seemed to solve the warping issues and the parts don't pop off the bed until it is completely cooled. I originally used 115/110 for the bed settings. I think the reason iby brucehvn - Printing
Has anyone built printers using these OpenBuilds lead screws? Specifically for the z-axis? Seems that even with full stepping, they should still give .04mm resolution. With all the talk about lead screws on here, I haven't seen much mention of these as an option.by brucehvn - Reprappers
As far as I know, Frys doesn't sell heated beds either.by brucehvn - Reprappers
If you are using standard i3 m5 threaded rods with micro stepping, then your steps per unit should be 4000. If that's not working, then perhaps your z motors are skipping steps causing erratic behavior.by brucehvn - Reprappers
Well something is not right because that should never happen. The nozzle should always be above the print by whatever layer height you are using. If you are using .25 layer height, then the nozzle will be positioned .25mm above the last layer. The slicer should never cause a move across filament that has already been laid down on the current layer. Technically, you shouldn't even need the z lby brucehvn - Reprappers
You might also check out auto bed leveling. I didn't add it for quite some time and I wish I had done it sooner. Would have saved me a lot of time.by brucehvn - General
In the questions that ask when we started in 3d printing or when my 3d printer was purchased, you don't have 2014 as an option. Since it's now August, there's probably quite a few people like myself that have just gotten into this in the current year.by brucehvn - General
They want your contact information so they can either call you and try to make a sale, or bug you constantly until you order from themby brucehvn - General
Ok, this is a configuration.h file I made by taking the latest Marlin version and merging in the original Makerfarm changes plus your ABL changes. It compiles with no problem for me in Arduino 1.0.5. I did change your raise z between probes as .01 didn't make any sense there as Brainscan pointed out, but everything else should be the same.by brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
I wasn't saying to make yours look just like the stock configuration.h. I was just showing that the "// fine endstops" was commented in the latest file. Again, so what version of Arduino are you using to compile with?by brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
Ok, well in the stock configuration.h that comes with Marlin, this is what the endstop pullup section looks like: #ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN // #deby brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
If it is the case you were using the stock configuration.h from Marlin_RAMPS.....zip, then I do see some problems. The motherboard define is set to a different number. Old config #define MOTHERBOARD 33 New config #define MOTHERBOARD 34 But most likely your compile issue comes from here where it looks like your copy and paste didn't get the two slashes for the comment #ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPby brucehvn - General Mendel Topics