Hi- I have purchased a sample of 8mm smooth rod. It is good quality, and cheap, however it has standard +- tolerance, and thus not made for linear motion. Does anyone know how I could cut/remove .1mm off the diameter of the rod reliably and consistently, possible chemical etching?? -Nickby N314 - General
If you have Z Linear Bearings, I had the same issue, and I put a few drops of CA glue between the bearings and the X motor mount/Idler, and it completely went away. -Nickby N314 - Printing
I personally use 1.75. I like the look of 3mm better, but thats no good reason at all. Im about to build another printer and im going to use 1.75. Professional FDM machines (Stratsys/3D systems) use 1.75, so i figure they probably have pretty good reasons for doing so... -Nickby N314 - General
So... the least release of slic3r (9.10b) was in June. Does anyone have an idea when there may be a new release? I dont have a real reason, just curious. -Nickby N314 - General
Well I had a problem very similar to this about a year back. I ended up having to replace the hotend because I was getting some cross-talk between the heater and the temp.sensor. I sure hope you dont have the same issue. Look at this and see if it sounds similar to your issue. -Nickby N314 - General
I had i similar problem when I built mine. Make sure there is no slop in either of your xy timing belts. -Nickby N314 - General
So i've found that I have collected a bunch of short (couple meters) lengths of filaments. Many are too small for a print, so I was wondering if there was any way to bond them together for a single print.I have loaded filament during a print, but is annoying. Anyway, does anyone know/have any methods for "welding" two pieces of filament together, to be loaded as a single filament. If there is Iby N314 - General
Oh wow... yeah i completely misunderstood. If you reprint the object does it happen consistently? Could you post your gcode? -Nickby N314 - General
If a single step is missed ANYWHERE in the print, the entire print is offset that much from that point on... that's the disadvantage of steppers, no feedback. I would say if your drivers are well heatsinked, bump up the reference by .05-.1 (on the axis that skipped) and you should be good. Most firmwares do do acceleration, but some are not enabled/set correctly so it would be worth looking intby N314 - General
This used to happen to me. Be sure your drivers are very well heatsinked, and that the reference voltage on the pots are 0.4V. Also, do you have acceleration enabled?.... if not, that may be a factor. -Nickby N314 - General
Pwdr -Nickby N314 - General
I know those printers use a binding agent (some type of glue), to hold the powder together. The non-bound powder acts like the support material. The quality does look better, and is better for presentation purposes, but I think those parts arent quite fit more real mechanical loads. I have seen open source versions of that type of printing but i cant remember what they called it. -Nickby N314 - General
Well i just replaced the entire driver (X) and all works fine. Now that I replaced that driver the X axis runs far quieter and the X motor is cool to the touch when it used to get hot. Must have been a bad driver. -Nickby N314 - General
They have been working fine for months, but one was skipping so i turned the X axis reference voltage up by .7V. Why would overheating make the entire this shut down though, simultaneously? -Nickby N314 - General
My prints keep shifting. I paused the print and put a little force to try to move the X-carriage. I found that about every 3-4 seconds, all the motors on my printer shutdown for about half a second. Dont know what info to give but please ask, Im so confused. -Nickby N314 - General
Randomize starting points is causing this. I turned it off and the issue went away. Any way to randomize starting points without causing this issue? -Nickby N314 - General
So Ive sliced models and lately ive noticed the perimeters are just crap in some places, and its in the Gcode. The corners are just randomly cut off. Any ideas if its my config, or slicer itself. Using 9.8 -Nick *I originally posted this in the slic3r sections but received no replies, I figure it was due to lack of traffic*by N314 - General
This is still happening with all files. This problem is specific to corners. -Nickby N314 - Slic3r
So Ive sliced models and lately ive noticed the perimeters are just crap in some places, and its in the Gcode. The corners are just randomly cut off. Any ideas if its my config, or slicer itself. Using 9.8 -Nickby N314 - Slic3r
I have Finally completed my dual extruder and uploaded an operational firmware, but there is one final problem. Everything is fine before I print. I click print and it homes, but I wait and wait and the print never begins. Not sure what info would be needed to solve this, but ask and I shall tell anything about it. -Nickby N314 - General
Well im making progress but cant figure out two things 1. I attach a power source to the 11A input and nothing works, but it does with the 5A. 2. The second heater is heating, but not really, the status LED barley lights up. Its not sending it hardly any power. I measured the heater terminal at 0.1 Volts. What could cause This? -Nickby N314 - General
Meant to post in general. Delete this thread if you wish.by N314 - Reprappers
Ive finished my dual extruder, and urgently need to get it working. Ive tried doing the usual modifications to the firmware, but It dosent work. What modifications do I need to make for marlin for a dual extruder? Pronterface, RAMPS 1.4, Marlin 1.0.0. I am in a rush so any reply would be massively appreciated. -Nickby N314 - General
Ive finished my dual extruder, and urgently need to get it working. Ive tried doing the usual modifications to the firmware, but It dosent work. What modifications do I need to make for marlin for a dual extruder? Pronterface, RAMPS 1.4, Marlin 1.0.0. I am in a rush so any reply would be massively appreciated. -Nickby N314 - Reprappers
Im finishing my dual extruder and I have 2 quentions: 1. About what temp would I extude PVA ? 2. How do I control each hotend's temperature individually in slic3r? -Nickby N314 - General
I do have a part i need to make on a deadline, so I would greatly appreciate any help on this. -Nickby N314 - General
Ok, ive tried a bunch o' different temperatures and im still getting ooze. Ive upped my retract, occasionally added Z lift during retract, but its still oozing bad... And its the EXACT same setup as before I changed the nozzle, and the new nozzle is the same kind with the same opening. What is going on?!? I attached a picture of my most recent print to show how it looks, This one was slightly coby N314 - General
Im currently in the process of constructing a dual bowden extruder, to allow for soluble support material. One thing im really worried about is how to wipe the nozzle upon switching heads. I have a prusa Mendel V2. Any one have any ideas or experience with this? -Nickby N314 - General