And because I have no money, yet another of my ideas have been imagined and fulfilled by another person, namely Carbon3D. QuoteMrDoctorDIV ...a continuous pull would speed up the print...essentially remove visibility of layers on curves and shallow slopes, right? With all of the benefits I had mentioned.by MrDoctorDIV - General
Vegasloki- I have not finished the carriage mechanism yet. I'm actually revisiting that one, so new parts will be needed first. I'll try and get your attention when I get that part moving. gmh39- Indeed. I was originally going to do blue, favorite and not cliché. I check a lot of my prints at night though, and blue has an awakening effect (why screens make sleep difficult), so I decided to go reby MrDoctorDIV - CoreXY Machines
Current progress on my printer: As my basis, I'm using OpenBuild's V-Slot. That's everything you see there minus the build plate and added red color. I'm going the CoreXY route after asking plenty of questions and seeking the furthest depths of the world wide web. I can't list out half those reason (researched it a while ago), I just know it's the best. I know it's been a long time since I'veby MrDoctorDIV - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMrDoctorDIV Get a good enough frame rate and a clean enough setup and you could essentially remove visibility of layers on curves and shallow slopes, right? Thought it was clear I knew what frames were by talking about them. I guess not. To be more clear, because the object is moving constantly you could play on the frame rate by increasing it rather than only using a frame per cleanly moveaby MrDoctorDIV - General
Well would you look at that.by MrDoctorDIV - General
Is it not possible to continuously pull on the print and play the layers like a video? Is it that everyone just does the same thing or is this not a possibility? In my weak, little mind, a continuous pull would speed up the print, as it would allow constant curing rather than 15%-50% of the time from the few videos I've seen. Get a good enough frame rate and a clean enough setup and you could essby MrDoctorDIV - General
^ ditto I think there are two parts to RepRap. The innovators and the users. Innovators are the people who create new things, whether for themselves or RepRap as a whole. New designs, fix their own things and help others to also do their thing. Users are the receiving end of this. They are the post-war liberated citizens, "It ought to be celebrated by pomp and parade, with shows, games, sports, gby MrDoctorDIV - General
It's almost tempting to get one and modify it with more precise peices. Those prints don't look like the greatest, but hey, you get what you pay for. Give it clean, sharp prints and I'd be in.by MrDoctorDIV - General
Any updates on duel extrusion model?by MrDoctorDIV - General
Depends on what part you're using it for. Heatbreaks are SS no questions. Yes, brass will work, but not near as effective, maybe not even half so. I've seen people upgrade brass hotends with SS parts. I'm not too knowledgeable on hotends yet, though.by MrDoctorDIV - Developers
I've used both the v5 and v6, and honestly I have the same issues with both, but the v6 most definitely prints superior to the v5, and with noticibly less friction. I have a certain filament type that's always given me jamming issues, even though it looks great and runs buttery smooth. It just holds and spreads heat too much, so it will expand higher than most. Other than that one filament, theby MrDoctorDIV - General
A note: 50 microns is 0.05mm, not 0.005mm.by MrDoctorDIV - General
QuoteJ_MAC So you think mass production isn't a reality at all? Even in the next, say 5-10 years? QuoteJessicaW Does the technlogy exist for mass production manufacturing? Underline added I was answering the question in its context, that being already here. Currently, 3D printing isn't suitable for mass production. That all depends on what you call mass production, though. As for the future, wellby MrDoctorDIV - General
^ I'd also add that instead of waiting in the freezer you could blow an air can upside down at the bottom to cool it quickly. More effective since you're cooling just the bed and quickly.by MrDoctorDIV - General
Personal experience tip: blue tape works better, but mostly much easier than elmer's glue. My salty two cents. I used a chizel razer for removing parts and every once in a while the tape from the parts. I broke two of them and since switched to a scyth style razor that works almost as good but doesn't break near as easy.by MrDoctorDIV - General
If you're talking industrial levels of mass production, 3D printing is the wrong place to be. It's called a prototyping technology for very good, clear reasons. While getting the product out the first time is loads faster, each individual product is loads slower than typical mass production processes. Extra waste is also introduced along with not as strong parts and highly likely to double your mby MrDoctorDIV - General
I would avoid Makerbot and Solidoodle. Infamous for unreliability, and my personal exerience with Solidoodle says you'll need a fair amount of calibrating. Ultimaker 2 is the undervalued juggernaught here. I have yet to hear a single bad thing about Ultimakers, but I have heard much praise in the improvements on the new design.by MrDoctorDIV - Developers
The problem with standard fans is that they don't have much pressure, just higher air flow. The fan I set to the side was made for faster airflow and did better than a cheaper, dinky fan that had to compress air flow to a small area; AKA it didn't work well. Blower fans work a lot better under higher pressures than standard fans, even if they can't reach the same unrestricted CFM, they'll reach aby MrDoctorDIV - Printing
Or they know what they're doing, but only for their printer. I'll be honest, getting a printer to print in proper tolerance is a rare find and one who models for that kind of printer is not going to be compatible with the rest of the world, but it will work perfectly for them. I model most of my own parts because I know my printer sucks beyond the use of other's functional parts.by MrDoctorDIV - Printing
Not to try and argue, it is a good program, it's super fast, full of features, and the supports, oh they're ungodly. But it couldn't slice thin parts or small holes very well, especially the tubed holes that ran up and down. Other than that, it was all good as a slicer. I just have different requirements than it can fulfill. Cura has yet to slice wrong, and it's on part with speed and effectiveneby MrDoctorDIV - Printing
I've heard of a few people who use large fans, at a few points I used a desktop chassis fan and just set it on the bed in the direction of the print. It worked well in cooling the part, it did cool the hotend. I got around that by raising the temp and letting it start before I let the fan hit the hotend. It was fine after that, and actually printed quite, quite better than the fan duct I used.by MrDoctorDIV - Printing
Yeah, I tried KISSlicer one time and the interface got me out, same with Skeinforge. I was using Simplify3D for a while, but it's honestly not worth $140, considering Cura does a better job than it does. So I'm using Cura, it's got a simple, easy interface, although different, and it slices quickly and paths well. No slicer is going to magically know everything, no matter what you use you're goinby MrDoctorDIV - Printing
Back in the day I printed a very, very similar fan duct. I had some bad bridging then, and it did mess up a lot aesthetically, but it worked just fine. Bridging with PLA typically works by getting good air flow, and since you're printing a fan duct I assume you're going to print it with PLA. I use an air can when I'm printing a duct and don't already have one. I watch the print and blow when it gby MrDoctorDIV - Printing
Besides Slic3r being an inferior slicer , mechanics and proper numbers are going to be the biggest difference makers. Numbers need to be as exact as possible, so that the real world can be calculated in the perfect world closely. If your numbers are perfect, than anything else can be blamed mostly upon mechanics, and in a few few cases the slicer. There are so many things in play, but it's safe tby MrDoctorDIV - Printing
The key in selling printed parts is also to keep in mind the finish on the parts for the market you are targeting. I can leave parts plain printed for functionality or parts that won't show, or I can put custom finishes on them that I have yet to see anyone else do, depending on what the part/product will be doing. I can make anywhere from $3 to $65 on a single part with my old printer, with my nby MrDoctorDIV - General
The v6 solved the probelm with codes on the sides, but other than that you'll just have to compare/measure as accurately as possible practicing on known sizes.by MrDoctorDIV - General
At least, that's what caused it for me each time.by MrDoctorDIV - Printing
I experience that myself a few times, it's a result of your extruder stepper motor being overpowered. The problematic nozzle may have increased friction. Each raised point is the point of whole step in the motor, the friction/resistance keeps the off-whole steps from being accurate in their lower torque.by MrDoctorDIV - Printing
Starting from the safe side does more than give excitement; it gives you a better point of perspective. Starting dirty may make bad prints seem pretty good and you may stop at what you think is reasonable when you are actually behind the game. Just a tid bit of food for thought.by MrDoctorDIV - Mechanics
Your print is screaming way to low acceleration on the corners, those are bulging. I don't have my travel near 200, I keep mine at 80-100mm/s at 3000mm/s2, printing at 50-60mm/s. I agree on the GUI's entirely. Cura's profile in Repetier Host is to my liking after figuring out the entirely different layout from Slic3r and Simplify3D . A note about that though: Cura takes the nozzle diameter from Rby MrDoctorDIV - General