I would also say that the extruder is the limiting factor for most printers. It's not just how fast your extruder can spin/push filament, it's how fast it can push it out of the nozzle and how much of it will come out of the nozzle at that speed. This is limited by a large number of factors: 1. Temperature of the hot end (mainly temp range). 2. Viscosity of the plastic at a suitable extrusioby Cefiar - Slic3r
If your thermistors are stuck at a set reading, then either you have the wrong board config (it's reading the wrong pins), or you've somehow connected more than 5V to the thermistor inputs, frying them. If you've fried the thermistor inputs, then you need to replace the Arduino Mega. Check for resistance between the thermistor leads and the hot end, and beware of intermittent shorts as the hot eby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
tjb1: Actually, this is a flaw with the design of the Arduino itself, but appears on many other boards that implement their own USB (eg: Sangululo, Meltzi, etc). The issue itself is known as a Ground loop problem, and ONLY manifests itself when you use a PSU on the device end (the Arduino) that has it's own AC Ground connection. The Arduino has the USB shield wired directly to ground. Unfortunatby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Not an actual resistor. Some high-temp glues can act like a resistor if they are in contact with the metal leads of either the hot end heater or the thermistor. Use a multimeter, and measure the resistance between one of the thermistor leads and one side of your hot end heating element (whether it's a resistor, nichrome wire or a heating cartridge). If that is >100Mohm, try measuring the otheby Cefiar - Controllers
Check that you haven't got a resistance between the hot end and the thermistor somehow. Shorts are bad, but a high resistance (say 10K-10Mohm) is even harder to debug. Unfortunately many glues suitable for use on hot ends can be somewhat conductive. Where possible, avoid applying any to pins on either the hot end heater (eg: resistor leads, etc) or the thermistor leads. The thermistor is (usualby Cefiar - Controllers
Something to remember with steppers: Any fluctuations in your PSU voltage, will affect how your motors move. This includes slight drops due to the heated bed turning on (as it draws so much current), or just the PSU not quite performing on the day (temperature maybe?). It might not be much of a change but you might find that it's JUST enough to cause the odd misstep. If you do run another calibby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
There's always a few people who own repraps at HSBNE ( Hackerspace Brisbane - ), so you could always try there.by Cefiar - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
Did the admin who banned ohioplastics make a mistake somehow? Or was ohioplastics also a mistake? Just remember reading that thread recently and of course his name starts with 'oh'.by Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
The connectors on the RAMPS boards sold by some of the cheaper players are well..... Crap. Same applies for clones of many of the other boards. If you're not buying from a decent company that puts reasonable connectors on the boards, I suggest you replace them. Specifically the connectors that go to the heated bed tend to be slightly sub-par and may not even be specced for the ~10A that flows thby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
If your bed reads below the minimum temp, it won't heat. Same goes for the hot end (for hot end readings). This is because a very "low" reading is also the same as having the thermistor disconnected. If the thermistor is disconnected, you can't tell when to switch off, which would be dangerous. 1. Try heating the bed to ~20 deg C before turning it on. A hair dryer or even just putting your handby Cefiar - Controllers
Sounds like the Z is trying to go too fast and failing to step properly. Look for: #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min) Try reducing the 3rd term (4*60 in the above, say try 4*50), upload and try again. It could be that the homing speed is too fast for your machine. BTW: 4*60 means 4 times 60. you can put in the final value directly (eg: 240), orby Cefiar - Controllers
Given that you pressed on the board and it started working for a time, it could either be a damaged RAMPS board (pad or via damaged so it's intermittent), a damaged socket on the Arduino (pin bent internally), or maybe a damaged Arduino board (pad or via damaged). In any case, it sounds like it was caused by mechanical stress, probably when removing the RAMPS board. I would redo the solder conneby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
The top ground plane and the bottom ground plane may not both be ground. One may be ground and one may be +24V (or something similar). Could the Regulator on the Arduino have failed? Putting 12V on the 5V rail would most likely kill a Pololu. Having them all go to me would mean that something happened to something common to them all, which either means Vmot (which is from the standard input) orby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Things not to do (applies to most boards): - Unplug/plug stepper motors while RAMPS is powered on (instant current draw can blow drivers, despite current limiters). - Unplug/plug stepper drivers while RAMPS is powered on (instant current draw can blow drivers, despite current limiters). - Unplug/plug hot end/heated bed while RAMPS is powered on (can lead to arcing in connectors if the output gby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
I've sometimes found motors vibrate when one of the coils is back to front. eg: Say your wires are the following: Red, Green, Blue, Yellow. You may find that switching the Red/Green may improve things, or switching the Blue/Yellow. Note: This will switch the direction the motors spin, so you need to compensate for that in firmware. If it's not that, then it looks like you might have some badby Cefiar - Controllers
Your steps/mm in the firmware are set to match a different microstepping than what the board is set to. eg: the steps/mm were calculated for 1/8th microstepping, but your board is set to 1/16th, or 1/16th and 1/32nd respectively (DRV8825's go to 1/32nd microsteps).by Cefiar - Controllers
bobion: The github (for Firmware and Hardware) is at: While we did use RAMPS originally, we moved to a different (custom made) board, but it's still an Arduino at core. You could simply map one of the Servo pins to the laser output. That will be TTL (max 5V) and should do PWM. I think that might be what we did, but it was a while ago. Note: I was not involved in the actual doings of the projeby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
You may also find that the dir line that runs to the stepper driver has a dodgy solder joint somewhere. The dir line is pin 14 on the stepper driver chip, and runs to pin 24 on the ATmel chip. Same could be true of course of the X end stop line (goes to pin 21 on the ATmel).by Cefiar - Controllers
Are your hot end and your heated bed thermistors working? Marlin won't allow you to heat up the bed unless both work.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Err.. your perimeter speed in the second one is 1/2 of what it is in the first one. Since the perimeter is the outside of the object (apart from the bottom that is on the build plate), your print will take longer depending on how much surface area (excluding the bottom) the object has.by Cefiar - Slic3r
D1 stops the Arduino feeding power back to the12V line when powered from USB. If anything got switched on (eg: hot end), the current draw could kill the Arduino's onboard regulator. It also provides a tiny bit of reverse voltage protection if you connect the 12V input the wrong way. Using a Zener will break this, as it will be forward biased and pass current when powered by USB. The other probleby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Bishupz1: While 5V may "technically" be enough for the motors, the issue is that the chips that drive the motors (the drivers) need an absolute minimum of 8.2V. As 5V is LESS than 8.2V, they simply will not work. The drivers need the extra voltage so that the motors move reliably. Without it, they won't work. For the case where you have 1 motor on a driver, this works fine with 12V. The differeby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
There is something else regarding the motors. The motor side of the DRV8825 chips (the chip on each Panucatt SD8825) requires a minimum working voltage of 8.2V. 5V simply won't cut it. Regarding the motors: In parallel the current will be higher. Do you have heatsinks on the driver chips, and do you have a fan blowing on them? 2.4A is very close to the 2.5A limit of those drivers, and they'llby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
U1 is the connector on the shield that goes to the Arduino Mega. Basically it's easier for the schematic to treat the large Arduino Mega connector as a huge IC, This way you can place it wherever you want on the PCB when laying things out, the pins are all labelled for you, etc etc. Note that the pins IDs match the Arduino Pin IDs.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Check there is voltage on the VIN pin of the RAMPS board (going to the Arduino Mega). If that has voltage on it, then try running the Arduino Mega off a DC plugpack (without RAMPS attached) - make sure the DC plugpack is suitable though. If the Arduino Mega does not work, you will most likely find you've fried the regulator on the Arduino Mega somehow (eg: shorted 5V to Ground, or got your PSU bby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
The newest version of this board has NOT YET BEEN TESTED or assembled. Geeetech are currently selling the old version, which has KNOWN issues, so it's recommended not to buy it. Once we've tested it, then we'll be able to say for sure that someone should manufacture it. The issues with the old version weren't noticed and Geeetech jumped the gun (so they didn't perform any testing before sendingby Cefiar - Controllers
BV3D: Yes, with a Taurino Power, you should be able to use 24V. The stepper drivers (eg: A4988, DRV8825) will handle 24V, but I do not know if they will handle the current you require (as this will depend entirely on which steppers you use, not just on the drivers). Whatever you do, the stepper drivers will need heatsinks AND active cooling (ie: A fan, with a lot of air flow), especially if youby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
As cdsteinkuehler says, the BOM is not up to date. Hopefully we'll get to that soon.by Cefiar - Controllers
newrapper: What country are you in? That makes a lot of difference.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
For the fuse: During operation, you could check to see what voltage is on either side of the fuse, compared to Ground. It should be very close to the same. just be careful to only touch the lead of the fuse with the multimeter probe, and nothing else. With the unit completely off and disconnected from the PSU, you could check the resistance of the fuse (from one side to the other). Make sure thby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics