Sheesh! Forget the colours. L and N! You'll want an earth with that. That's the end of the printer that will kill you. Ask someone real-life for assistance if you're unsure. -aby alan richard - General
Some fine results from all entries . . . Crispest honeycomb would be AndrewBCN. Shame I can't vote for him. Super fast results from Mr Hilton there. That 0.6 really chucks out the plastic. Also Rammsteini - fast and tight. Shame about that slight gap between the circle and the square (Is that a reference to the band Rammstein? - I've seen them a couple of times - Crazy guys) Sharp flat top laby alan richard - General
Cura (and Slic3r) sometimes create gcode files with missing bits. Try rotating it when slicing . . . just a thought. -aby alan richard - Printing
Thanks for the tips Andrew - I'll try those out. I'll maybe squeeze another submission in before midnight. Quite a tricky little test really. I didn't realise how clean your print was before I tried printing it myself. Is that not your Bowden in the vid? You say you have little experieince. Or are you new to it? You think decrease Esteps for extrusion? Not decrease flow rate in slicing? -aby alan richard - General
Here we go for a coreXY with a cheap chinese 0.4mm nozzle, airtripper bowden extruder with 800mm tube ABS Quick and dirty Bit slower, still dirty Warm up time is about 12min for bed and 2 min for nozzle. I'm still in the state of tuning the printer. Am I over extruding? How's my retraction? -aby alan richard - General
lunarkingdom. Add M140 S0 ; turn off bed temperature to your custom end Gcode. I'm surprised its not there as default (in slic3r at least) psneddon. No, It isn't obvious what to do. I think its safe to just shut the power off and leave the filament in the extruder. Though you could pull the filament as its almost cool to pull everything out of the melt chamber as a blob. Leave the print andby alan richard - General
Return it under warranty. . . . and let them know how distressed by it you are and inconvenienced by not being able to use it. -aby alan richard - General
Totally get a nozzle if you wish. I suspect there's more to it than that. There's no resin either - that's the printed plastic. At 3:58 "We have two heads - a nylon printhead which puts all the form around and a carbon . . . printhead which essentially melts the fabric into the part below it" Anyone can build one. If they learn enough and put in enough development time which, it looks like Grby alan richard - General
I'd agree with gmh39. Listen to how he says it on the video - It 'melts it into the plastic layers below' He does say there are two print heads. To me it's a separate heated nozzle that is dispensing dry, unmelted strings (carbon, glass, kevlar) and squishing it into the plastic layers with the heat of the nozzle. Once its stuck down, the fibre should just pull itself thru the nozzle without nby alan richard - General
One thing that caught me when I last upgraded Marlin was a new addition in config.h Line 579 579 #define LANGUAGE_INCLUDE GENERATE_LANGUAGE_INCLUDE(en) needed uncommenting. -aby alan richard - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Divide 80.5 (step/mm) by 76 (distance extruded) Multiply result by 100 (distance required) So Esteps/mm wants to be 106. or 105.92. Try that number and repeat to double check/ fine tune It is easier and quicker to do this calibration without the hotend attached and just wind out the filament into free air. Your stepper is a YH42BYGH47-401A Nema_17_Stepping_Motor aby alan richard - General
It will probably always have bugs. There doesn't seem to have been a 'stable' release for a while. The latest on github should be stable enough. What were the errors? ArduinoIDE repeats itself a bit over the same error. You sure it wasn't a connection error? Can your kit supplier send you a configured version of Marlin? -aby alan richard - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotecat.farmer Does the led come on when you set the heatbed/ hotend.?by alan richard - General
I've heard of steampunk. This must be waterpunk. -aby alan richard - Look what I made!
Good work and a nice design. It looks well proportioned. Cantilevers do require a lot of structure. It would also make a good model for lost PLA Aluminium casting. -aby alan richard - General New Machines Topics
Hi dc. Fair point about the endstops. I'd be up for a part soldered board too. Keep us posted -aby alan richard - Controllers
It sounds like it thinks the min. Endstops are triggered. Try inverting or un - inverting them in Marlin. Try fitting the endstops and getting them working. It may be something to do with stepper direction signal but that should work normally as default. I don't think that many people have trouble with that. -a Edit: The red led on the Ramps board would be just a sign that an output is on -by alan richard - CoreXY Machines
No takers? Try dividing your print speed by 10.by alan richard - Wanted
I get good results using the same settings as you first posted. Maybe it's cooling too quickly after printing. Looking at the bottom right image on the right hand side it looks split open from the left hand side of the part shrinking faster. You could try wrap the print up and ramp down the heatbed temp after printing. A bit of a faff on. The delamination seems to show a regular pattern on tby alan richard - Printing
Good work dc42. I'm ready for 32bit, but for me I'd really want to have max endstops as well. 20A heatbed option would be a good move if it didn't load the price too much. I agree with the earlier comment from Chri about an on board SD card. Most people would go with a smart LCD controller with a card reader built in, and I think the main board and wiring should be away from everyday finger poby alan richard - Controllers
PiMaker Keep up the cogitating! -aby alan richard - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
If you find the cog shape you want as a solid object you should be able to 'subtract' it from the thing that you want a hole in. Probably in Fusion I'd think. Not sure. Meshmixer probably. I'm sure that you can find cogs and gears on thingiverse. Subtraction would be the way to go. -aby alan richard - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Frustrating. If it works some of the time that eliminates a lot of the issues suggested. One question; Is anything happening after 10/15 minutes? Is your extruder gear getting hot enough to lose bite? Have you pushed filament through by hand? -Does it flow out straight down with no wiggle on it? It's possible for debris to linger in the nozzle. Sometimes it jams then it will clear itself forby alan richard - Printing
I have a glass bed on top of an aluminium plate with heating on the plate. I Countersunk the aluminium plate from the top in 3 places. Put csk screws through and tightened with nuts below to keep them captive on the plate The screws poke through springs, then through my support frame below. Adjustment is with a nut on the bottom, with a locknut to stop it moving when set. aby alan richard - Mechanics
Hi. Yeah, I never searched very hard did I!? 'Stepper knob' in the examples. Thanks for the pointer. That's just fine. aby alan richard - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
You can adjust the speed of that final move on homing. I forgot where I saw it in the config now. Homing 'bump' is it? Something like that. In most recent Marlin it has been slowed right down. It is quite noisy on 1/16 stepping. Full steps must sound rough. aby alan richard - Mechanics
Hello. Can someone point me in the right direction. . . (I searched but nowt' obvious came up) I've a spare Uno, a stepper motor and a big pot of stepper drivers - Some work some don't and some are in between. I'd like to put together a little breadboard rig and some code, where I can plug in a stepper driver, drive the motor and tweak current settings and just generally test what I've got.by alan richard - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
That is weird. I think its more than just print settings or slicing. Your Z shouldn't be doing anything like that. I never had a problem with slic3r like that. Don't think many do. Are you printing over USB? Is it a good cable? Is your pooter busy with something else when it should be concentrating on printing? -aby alan richard - Printing
It's only the steps per mm in Marlin that defines the stepping along with the hardware jumpers. If you set X and Y steps/mm the same as Z and they still don't work I think it suggests that the Ramps or the mega board may be faulty. Just a thought - Have you enabled eeprom support? If so, any changes in your uploaded Marlin will not override the settings stored in internal memory. You will neeby alan richard - RAMPS Electronics
You'd probably need a proper gauge to measure the nozzle. Maybe cost more than a nozzle. See how a 0.5mm pencil lead fits up the hole. Perhaps hard to tell with filament in. I was just throwing out ideas to fine tune calibration. If you're printing better now its not an issue. I think you'd be safe with higher stepping 1/16 shouldn't be a problem. I'm not sure what this means; " instead of pby alan richard - Printing