Directly heating the glass could result in cracked glass if tree heat it's applied unevenly or the glass had imperfections that act as stress points.by umdpru - General
I just started using 1/4in old mirror glass for my i3 and us fine. The weight is obviously higher but i don't print at stupid speeds so it's not a problem. It's actually better because larger parts can't bend the glass up like I've had happen in the past.by umdpru - General
Those ripples are edge ringing artifacts from acceleration as the print head travels towards the opening of the hole then tries to turn the corner quickly and slightly overshoots causing small vibrations. You could try tuning your accelerations to eliminate them. 9000 is ridiculously high. In fact all of the default accelerations are too high by default in Marlin.by umdpru - General
Hi all, I am having an issue where my I3 running Ramps 1.4 and Marlin won't "end" a print properly. In otherwords, my Mini Kossel, also running Ramps 1.4 and Marlin ends a print properly and displays the total elapsed time after printing. My I3 says "Heating..." and the timer keeps counting up (elapsed time). they both are using the same end g-code, for the most part. I3 End G-Code: M104 Sby umdpru - General
Sorry, I just don't see a big enough difference in the griffin to be able to call it better.by umdpru - Delta Machines
Sorry, Iceman086. Go to and check out the posts there. Not one for Griffin. That's not to say it's not a good printer. I'm just saying that the Mini Kossel is king of the hill right now.by umdpru - Delta Machines
a mini kossel is MUCH easier to scale up than a 3DR. Get into the deltabots google group and check out Jay Coture's Mini Kossel calculator. The extrusions can be bought precut to the lengths you specify., Why would you want to cut it yourself? Ekaggrat is right in that the Mini Kossels are MUCH MUCH easier to enclose.by umdpru - Delta Machines
I have printed both PLA and ABS on my ultibots MK. It prints both well with no specific problems noticed so far. Ultibots has begun shipping their machines with a combination hotend/print cooling duct/fan system in place which helps tremendously with printing PLA and with finely detailed ABS. As for the fumes associated with ABS. There has yet to be any scientific evidence to show the "fumes" aby umdpru - Delta Machines
Hello, I Can someone help me? When I try to download and run Craftware it says the installer is not a valid Win32 application?by umdpru - Software
Oh man! You won't regret it! Brad at ultibots is great. Keep in mind it's a beta kit. The parts and assembly really aren't beta, its the assembly instructions that arent done. Don't hesitate to ask for help. I going the only really lacking area was the micro extruder assembly. I went to their ultimax build guide, though, and find it there. Good luck.by umdpru - Delta Machines
A delta printer is art in motion in my opinion. I'm building another MK right now.by umdpru - Delta Machines
Edit: I see your solution was found. good luck.by umdpru - Delta Machines
I recently purchased and assembled an ultibots mini kossel and it's working great! It doesn't have auto leveling and it doesn't need it. I can't stress that enough. Auto leveling is all the rage right now but it's lazy. You should ALWAYS manual level a printer and definitely manually calibrate a delta. I highly recommend an ultibots mini kossel! You absolute can't beat the price. Also, if you reaby umdpru - Delta Machines
I think the mini kossel is the most active delta at the moment. the 1515 version is ok but not stiff enough if you make it bigger than the stock size. The 2020 variant is very stiff at a reasonable height (600-700ish mm tall). I installed stepper motor dampeners and now the movement on my machine is quiter than the hotend/cooling fans. Do yourself a favor and upgrade to a 32bit controller likeby umdpru - Delta Machines
You should definitely be using it with the thermistors. They won't get as accurate as they can get without it. The hot end heater will be more efficient with thermal paste too but a tight enough fit can be achieved with aluminum foil such that thermal paste isn't aboslutely required.by umdpru - Delta Machines
I use thermal paste on my hot end thermistors and heater cartridges. the paste gets a bit "drier" with long term heat exposure but it works ok. I decided against using it on my heated bed because Ilike to remove the glass to clean it up and having thermal paste on there is a pain in the arse! That stuff get's everywhere you don't want it to!by umdpru - Delta Machines
QuotePlastic type materials do tend to not steal as much heat as glass does. For what it's worth, glass has a very poor thermal conductivity. The problem is that it's at much cooler temperature than the extrudate if it's not heated. I've never had much luck without a heated build plate. I tried a lot of combinations and nothing is as rock solid as Garnier Fructis Extreme Hold on a heated (50ยบ)by umdpru - Delta Machines
Yep! You have most likely not plugged the end-stops into the proper axis. I had that exact same problem and it exhibited the same symptoms. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why the end-stops were triggering until I realized they weren't on the right axis.by umdpru - Delta Machines
cool DNA!! What model did you print those from?by umdpru - Delta Machines
QuoteRTurnock Quoteumdpru Richard, I found the issue with my 3DR simple, I believe. I gave up on it for a while and built a MK from ultibots that prints fantastically. During that build, I decided to print a "torture test" model on the Cupcake CNC that I had used to print both of the frames on the 3DR simple. Well, after the torture test model was complete, I examined it and found that the squarby umdpru - Delta Machines
Richard Horne's review in the 3rd issue of reprap magazine wasn't very glowing (pun not intended). The Pico folks surely wowed a lot of people with their pretty "FEA", though.by umdpru - General
I like that solution, Nophead. A 40W cartridge is certainly overkill. My J-heads come to 235C in a a few minutes at most. I can wait 10 or 15 for them to heat up. the heatbed takes that long anyways. No amount of safety prevention will prevent all disasters with these machines. they aren't for the ignorant to use.by umdpru - Safety & Best Practices
QuoteAs mentioned, if you do not have the thermal cut-off directly on your heat block, then you run the risk of your hotend dropping out of its plastic fixture before the thermal cut-off does its job. You're assuming a thermal cut-off would be improperly chosen such that it stayed intact and let hte hotend fall out. I think you either didn't read what I posted or just dind't understand it. tby umdpru - Safety & Best Practices
Hazer, QuoteAnd since a thermal fuses are not rated hgih enough to watch the hotend directly, and can only detect fire AFTER ignition in other dangerous parts of the printer, you can already assume the printer is burning away. Your assumption here is just not grounded in engineering logic. The order of events due to a failure in which you have a runaway hotend will be: 1. Hot end begins heatinby umdpru - Safety & Best Practices
I mounted one of these above my printer bench. . I find that fire detecting/extinguishing equipment can sometimes be tough to buy because as a consumer society, we like to use the products we purchase. Fire detecting/extinguishing gear are products we hope to NEVER use. Also, as already discussed, use self amalgamating silicone tape to wrap the hotend and secure the thermistor. Lastly, PLEASEby umdpru - Safety & Best Practices
Richard, I found the issue with my 3DR simple, I believe. I gave up on it for a while and built a MK from ultibots that prints fantastically. During that build, I decided to print a "torture test" model on the Cupcake CNC that I had used to print both of the frames on the 3DR simple. Well, after the torture test model was complete, I examined it and found that the square box was out of square.by umdpru - Delta Machines
Two arms won't cut it. The platform will still have a degree of freedom to rotate out of parallel with the bed if you don't have a parallel arm setup - at least on one carriage. Also, having a moving bed in Y negates the high-speed advantaged gained by having X on a "delta-hybrid" platfrom. I3's, for instance, are limited, in X/Y, by the Y bed moving, not the X-carriage. You would definitelyby umdpru - Delta Machines
Hi all, I am using the March 10 2014 version of slic3r. Is there a setting hidden somewhere to turn off auto centering of the object?by umdpru - Slic3r
Hi all, I recently got a Mini Kossel up and running. I'm trying to get the model preview feature in pronterface to function correctly. Currently, I slice with Slic3r and open/run the job with pronterface (when not SD printing). Look at the attached screenview from pronterface for a 20mm calibration cube. It's skewed. In slic3r,I have my printer x at 170 and the y at 170 with center at 0,0. In pby umdpru - General
I have found ultimachine, prototype supply to have excellent filament at a reasonable price. I have machines running both sizes of filaments and I can't find any reasonable difference between the two.by umdpru - General