Was after some of these but the seller links are no good for me. The Gadgets3D site a) doesn't work properly (checkout gives a json error if you specify a different delivery address) and b) charges 25 euros delivery! The others are meh.by UkIan - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Those are essentially the same as the astrosyn dampers that don't help much at all. I got my Astrosyns today to have a play with. First thing that I should of spotted when I looked at them on the web site, but didn't, is they all expect you to be mounting the motor using two screws across the diagonal. So the standard mount for the Y motor on an i3 for example won't workby UkIan - General
Quotevictorjung Yeah, but i would like to shutdown the hot end fan at the end of the print...even if the 12 is still on.I tried M42 which seems a nice option for me, but it doesnt do anything, the pin 10 i am trying to control stay at zero withs M42 P10 S255 Any ideas why? thanks for your help anyway Don't do that. The hot end will still be hot and you don't want the heat to travel up the hot eby UkIan - General
Quotejbernardis Shifting is either caused by mechanical issues, such as a belt that is too loose, or from dropped steps. Since your problem shifts between x and y when you rotate, I'll rule out mechanical. So now we have the theory that it's from dropped steps. Dropped steps can come caused by 1) mechanical issues such as an axis that binds which is unlikely in this case, 2) improperlby UkIan - General
Just ordered a box of Astrosyn for Nema 17's, so I'll do a little video once I get them so people can see (hear) any difference.by UkIan - General
I use several layers of the non slip matting under mine. You need a few layers, but it kills most noise.by UkIan - General
Yep, that helps. I sort of assumed that the firmware was smart enough to figure out that a lower accelleration would mean it would need to slow down for corners, but there was always a nagging feeling. I assume a faster accelleration could give sharper corners as well as being faster? Or is that poppycock?by UkIan - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I don't understand the accelleration settings in Marlin. I don't know what I should be aiming for as a good setting. I don't know what setting them too high, or my current worry, too low does. So if you set the accellerations conservatively low, what are the effects? Equally how would I diagnose them being too high? What are the effects of setting them too high? Thanksby UkIan - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hazzah, it is a reprappro thing, here's the link to their repo on github. The extruder isn't in one of the printer directories, although I did look outside :/by UkIan - General Mendel Topics
Oh well done, didn't occur to me it might not be a reprappro own thing Thanksby UkIan - General Mendel Topics
Hi, I'm after the STLs, or preferable the SCAD files for the extruder on the this page. It's the one with the drive gear inside the big gear. Anyone have any idea where they are? I looked in the reprappro and think 3d print 3d github repos, but can't find them :/by UkIan - General Mendel Topics
The top one 3dprinter-collection, has the first issue available to read in the preview on the website. It's not bad actually. Both of them have quite funkly designs I think. Overal I was more impressed than I expected. The only problem of course is the idea of waiting two freaking years for anything makes me break out in a sweat.by UkIan - General
QuotePointedstick The Igus bushings that are the same size and shape as linear bearings are said to be quote good (never used them myself), but they are extremely expensive. In the past, I have both used and sold the much cheaper (< $1 apiece) press-fit Igus bushings with great success, but you need to choose the right ones; some do not last for very long. The ones I used in the past tended toby UkIan - General
Is there a set of M codes I can enter which mimics the auto bed levelling but with me manually moving the nozzle about and setting the Z height? So I'd enter "MstartAutoBedLevel", then jog to my left bottom corner, set the extruder to be at the right height. Next enter MtopRightAutoBedLevel, move the carriage to the top right, move the extruder to the right Z point, etc, etc. Actually it wouldby UkIan - General
Yeah, the heater block should not rotate at all. If you think about it, it's attached on a screw thread. If it can rotate a bit during printing it will lower or raise the nozzle by a bit. The fans are a bit of a nightmare. I super glue two thin strips of felt just inside the grip part of the fan holder which cancels out all the rattling. If you can disconnect the fan and hold it while it is runby UkIan - Prusa i3 and variants
Interesting, I'll try extruding a bit more and see where that gets meby UkIan - General
Trying a.0.25mm nozzle, prints are nice, but having a few layer bonding issues. Bit weak. Any guidance on tiny nozzles? Thanks Ianby UkIan - General
With the e3d, it might feel solid, but see if you can rotate the heat sink. They have a habit (if not tightened properly) to slack off at the heat break end inside the heat sink, which doesn't feel like a wobble as such because you have to rotate the heat sink to feel it move.by UkIan - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecdru I'm not sure that using a screw to hold something down counts as "developing". Does this mean my patent for a device to translate torsional force tangental to a plane into a strong purchase capable of restraining materials is likely invalid? Bugger.by UkIan - General
I remember reading somewhere what parts are printed at what layer height, but I can't remember where. Does anyone have a link, or the details off the top of their heads? Thanksby UkIan - Mendel90
Quotevreihen http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=pd_sim_hi_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=135HJ71VDCKQS7Z4WWZ5 Win!! Thank youby UkIan - General
Sort of but more mobile. I actually considered using one of those, because if it's not bolted to a bench it sort of does what I want, but it's a bit difficult to aim. So imagine you've got a bit of wood say 24inches by 600mm by a thumb thick. You want to make a hole in the very center. You can't use a normal drill press because of the pole, so something like a router would give you a nice 90degby UkIan - General
I keep looking for a device to attach to a power drill which makes it operate a bit like a router, i.e. up and down perpendicular to the surface being drilled. I can't find anything, but it could be another case of not knowing what it's called. Any ideas?by UkIan - General
Just to add to that, if you built an i3, you have a bed held in place with either 3 or 4 points. I'll assume 4, one in each corner, although I prefer 3. You need to set the bed so it is the thickness of a sheet of paper at all the points where the bed is connected to the chassis. The way I do it (borrowed from the wiki) is to lower the nozzle onto the bed with a sheet of paper between it and theby UkIan - General
QuotePaul Wanamaker Perhaps you could just add some very small holes in the model next to where you want it solid. That would force the slicer to add perimeters there, making it more solid. If the holes are small enough you might not hardly notice them. I tap some parts, and I print them with the hole I'm going to tap as part of the model, appropriately sized to be a little smaller to take a tby UkIan - General
Excellent Thank you , so I should give0.78za AFAIR a go? I don't need delta, although,... no I'm not getting a delta printer yet.by UkIan - RAMPS Electronics
DCDCDCDC!! Using your blog I uploaded the binary to the card. The original tutorial here relies on you having opened the project and built it before it will allow you to upload the binary, and even then I'm not sure the plug in works in quite the same way now as I never saw the button. So question: Where the heck did you find the information? How did you know about the bossac command line, I wouby UkIan - RAMPS Electronics