you need to change the extruder steps/mm either in config or eprom read what your current value is lets say its 80 and you only get 41 then for 100 you need 80 * 100/41 =195 steps/mm for extruder this can be changed if you view eprom settings and find extruder it will show your current value XX multiply that by 100 you told to extrude and divide that by what came out 41 and you get the new valueby Roger123D - General
you need to adjust the pot on the driver board best done with a meter and small metal screwdriver as the meter probe the other lead on gnd and you can watch the voltage as you adjust make it about 0.9v and motors should turn play with the volts in that range too much higher and the driver gets hot and motors grumble and complain too low they do the sameby Roger123D - General
the laser i have comes with a fan and 12 volt driver and is an on off type when powered the fan and laser are always on from my research this type can't be PWM'd its speed of movement in x and y controls how much an area is burnt and perhaps a z height control could be used to control the burn. It is set a distance from the bed say 20 mm and its focal point lens is adjusted for the burn intensitby Roger123D - General
you need to set print bed size and home locations as well as motor direction and end stop functions when you send a home all x goes right y goes back and z goes down if not nothing works adjust your settingsby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
reverse z axis stepper connections it should move down when homedby Roger123D - General
make sure the lcd shows that steppers are disabled and you may need to adjust that stepper driver potby Roger123D - Reprappers
elmers stick glue on glass I never use my bed heater with pla,petg or tpu blue tape will lift or bubble in spots causing warps in print and sticks to bottom of printsby Roger123D - Printing
also make sure you use the right microsteps 1/16 or 1/32 as set by jumpersby Roger123D - Printing
level bed to 0.1mm with z at home leave z offset zero check filament and nozzle diameter then set layer height to 0.2mm done in the slicer program and print a cube if this fails you need to calibrate z axis steps/mm for the threaded lead screw done in configuration slic3r has built in calculatorby Roger123D - Printing
what material is it and what temperatures nozzle diameter and filament size there is a list of things layer height, extruder calibration an uneven bed usuallly lets the part not sticking or it will be curled and uneven on first in your case there is layer separation to best test the printer print the 3d benchy boat try this site and also Tom's Review on Youtube re benchy problemsby Roger123D - General
have you installed the usb drivers and verified this in device manager assuming your using windows they are separate from the printer program and need to be done first regardless of firmware on the boardby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
try it with the fan blowing out what extruder is it and next question is there a parts cooling fan as well and is it off make sure it is off for at least first layer print and you should be able to reduce its speed ? firmware marlin repetier or other and what control boardby Roger123D - Reprappers
you need to run a PID autotune for your extruder and check the thermistor and heater being secure but running autotune will optimize the heating had to do it on mine after cleaning my extruder fan the procedure is a little different for marlin from repetierby Roger123D - Reprappers
you need to define bed size and home locations in the printer setup when you get an axis Y moving press its endstop and motor should stop when you home all axes the actual x and y location should be a minus valueby Roger123D - Reprappers
there is a marlin lcd2004 file available in addition to marlin firmware also checkoutby Roger123D - Reprappers
The company you want is IGUS they even sell the filament to make the bushings with as well as CAD and STL files for any sizeby Roger123D - Reprappers
if you have a ramps board and an arduino mega just recompile new firmware onto it marlin or repetier with new settings you need not sure if there is really one super board out thereby Roger123D - Reprappers
personally i wish i could get an all metric tape measure without the feet inches garbageby Roger123D - Reprappers
using an mk8 extruder temperature set for 210 deg when i start a print temperature climbs to 207 and stays there eventually climbs to 210 and prints have run and done an auto tune of pid several times up to 220 is the problem with the p the i or the d settingby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
look at motor directions and endstop settings max min that areaby Roger123D - Printing
the hotend fan gets connected directly to the power supply not the board plugs even if there is one as it must be always onby Roger123D - Printing
if you are using high temp thermocouple check out settings for a dyzend extruder on their website settings in marlin for 500c thermocoupleby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
the igus are interesting have researched them and definitely cheaper than the rexroth rails donated to me needless to say i chose the free route also look into v slot extruded aluminum rails that was my third choiceby Roger123D - Mechanics
the mosfet on mine has an aluminum heat sink on it and is located beside a green screw terminal block that the hot end heater connects to and is surface mounted on the board. the heat sink will lift off showing the part as far as part number it may show it or a melzi schematic in simple terms its an electronic switch that cycles heater off and on in tech terms metal oxide field effect transistorby Roger123D - Printing
I have noticed somewhere there is a setting for retraction but also nozzle wipe could this be the nozzle going to the front door mat to wipe its feet or what is this settingby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
setting a preset value will not ensure proper operation the easiest might be to write a G code script to cycle the axis 200mm forward and 200mm back and adjust the pot during movement you will then find a point where the motor moves best no studder just music too much either side the motor will stop or miss steps the driver or motor will get hotter. Each driver needs adjusting to its motor as noby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
did you change bed size or move limit switch sounds like some changes made in firmware to auto level may have changed home positionby Roger123D - General Mendel Topics
the mk8 is a functional extruder easy to rebuild the aluminum block has Kapton tape to hold thermistor and heater close to the nozzle, get rid of the tape and use high temp silicone to hold thermistor in place use heat sink grease on cartridge heater and make it tight first remove nozzle may need to heat remove heater and thermistor then unthread aluminum block and threaded teflon throat make surby Roger123D - General Mendel Topics
most likely the mosfet driving the heater is bad sending constant voltage , and i think they are surface mounted making it tricky to replace you could start a new post how to replaceby Roger123D - Printing