One thing to note, the cable that Filastruder supplied for my IR Probes wasn't exactly right for use with the Duet. They supplied a cable with 3 pin connectors on both ends, but when you pair it with a duet, you need a 4 pin connector because you have to skip a pin between VCC and GND. Figured I'd mention it considering the suggestion about wiring. I imagine this may also be the same if you puby PDBeal - Duet
I just hope your tracking details show it was picked up and moving. My experience had the package not picked up for two weeks before it finally began to move despite the "estimated arrival date" from the original emails from DHL. Good luck!by PDBeal - Smart_Rap
It looks like your bed is not level, or your auto level bed correction is not working. The under extrusion is probably when your nozzle is in direct contact with the glass, and the over extrusion blobs are probably when the pressure build up wins and pops out for relief. Editby PDBeal - Printing
With 25 or so printed PETG parts, I've had it take 4 chunks of glass and these parts where no stuck. After letting them cool, they lifted off and had a chunk of glass with them. I'm waiting for my Kapton to arrive to print any more, but I'd be happy with 1-2 pieces of glass a year, but I feel as though it would be a lot more than that at this rate. Edit: The glass screen protectors might be sby PDBeal - Printing
It looks like your bed is not level, or your auto level bed correction is not working. The under extrusion is probably when your nozzle is in direct contact with the glass, and the over extrusion blobs are probably when the pressure build up wins and pops out for relief.by PDBeal - Reprappers
0% and 100% would be no PWM or full voltage. Anything in-between would be some cycle load on the processor, so if you told Cura to use 100% fan, then you'd probably be ok as far as running the fan without the slow and stuttering. One other thing to ask would be what LCD if any do you have on the Ramps / Mega? I've heard of people having processor issues with these graphic displays. You couldby PDBeal - General
Could be a processing limit on the PWM, as soon as it's trying to do anything besides full power.by PDBeal - General
What size is your powersupply and are you running a heatbed? Just reading your description, it sounds as your powersupply isn't large enough when the fans kick on and so your steppers and controller become under-powered in a brownout state.by PDBeal - General
Have you tried changing the infill to a higher %? I had a similar problem with a Marvin Keyring where the section under his face area would be flattened and if I turn off the PLC cooling fan when it does this area, it would print perfect, but with the cooling fan on in this area it would cause it to collapse inside and 10%-50% infill had no change. Are you using a cooling fan when you print thiby PDBeal - Printing
I went with the E3D Varipower Heated Bed. It was a bit pricey, but it was worth it in the end. I have a comfortable seeling based on the design I have even heating across the whole bed area, and the clips they provide for the glass are invaluable. There is almost 0 chance of them getting caught in the hotend unless your trying to print outside the 300x200 area. Only downside was 24V, but I reby PDBeal - CoreXY Machines
If you look at the Ramps 1.4.2 design, they're showing 10A and 5A fuses.by PDBeal - RAMPS Electronics
Would increasing the T parameter not make the bed rise faster at the start? I guess alternatively, I could just add a G1 Z-200 F3600 to get the bed half way there, and then issue the G30.by PDBeal - Duet
So I've built another CoreXY with the Duet 0.8.5 board, one to the point it does 360 height with the Z axis on a single motor belt system. Because of this, my Z axis lives at the bottom of it's travel. In my homez.g file, all I do is move X and Y to the center of the bed and issue a G30. Is there anyway to speed up the travel with G30? Is this related to the M558 P1 X0 Y0 Z1 H3 F200 T5000 linby PDBeal - Duet
I bought a kit from Smartfriendz for his Smartrapcore Alu kit. It has all your requirements, sort of. His kit is supplied with a chinese clone for a hotend that I did not even use. I ordered an E3D Lite6 and an E3D V6 hotend and ended up using those instead of the chinese one supplied with the kit. My only negative thing to say is the kit was shipped from France and me being in the US it tookby PDBeal - General
If the X axis works properly when you connect it to the Y driver, and the Y axis has the same issue when you connect it to the X driver, then you have a bad stepper driver plugged into X right now. Replace your stepper drive that is plugged into the X axis location on the Ramps board.by PDBeal - Printing
This article sounds interesting. At least I found it worth a shot for $12 and ordered a glass screen protector from Amazon. Shame I can't get the exact glass size, but got one close enough to try with PETG and hopefully it won't eat the glass bed.by PDBeal - Printing
Is there anything you can remove from the X axis to reduce the weight and see if it can travel the 100mm with the 200 step setup like the Y axis? Based on your voltage test, I'm still leaning towards too much weight on your X axis for the motor, or it's binding somewhere during its travel.by PDBeal - Printing
The extruder won't turn unless your temperature is above EXTRUDE_MINTEMP which is default 170C. Otherwise you have to issue M302 to allow Cold extrusions.by PDBeal - Firmware - Marlin
Your tension is probably too tight on your filament causing your motor to skip because it doesn't have enough torque. You've also probably increased the current way too much if the heatsink is that hot, which also says your torque on the filament is too high.by PDBeal - Printing
That's the part I want to change. When I power it on, I want to make it assume (0,0,160) instead of (0,0,0). When it assumes (0,0,0), it also assumes when I home X it needs to move Z away because of the probe, yet in reality my Z axis is 160mm away from the head and does not need to move to home X and Y. It homes fine, but when I home X and Y it starts to try and move Z away, which is alreadyby PDBeal - Firmware - Marlin
If you increase the voltage for the X axis, does it still require the 406 in define_AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT to move the same distance? I'd slowly increase the pot to 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, etc...and see if your travel is the same for each move of 100mm with the 406 steps setting.by PDBeal - Printing
After a firmware change, Windows might have changed the comport to something else. Check your device manager and see if you still have a COM25 or if it's now something else.by PDBeal - Duet
Is there any way (I presume by editing the code) to make Marlin firmware power-up and assume a certain position of a motor? I have been using the 1.1 RC6 version on my CoreXY machine and I've noticed when I first turn the machine on and do a home x and home y, it starts trying to move my Z axis down despite the z axis is already at the end of it's travel at the bottom. I've played around with tby PDBeal - Firmware - Marlin
Quotenebbian Also 6B is detectable, if the firmware detects the temperature rising sharply on first power on. (while heaters are off) 6B won't be detectable until after you rapidly overshoot your setpoint if your heating up.by PDBeal - Duet
Meh, I use repetier host with Marlin firmware on my Mega/Ramps setup. It works, prints, etc... Some of the features like upload to the SD card might not work, but it works fine as a control and printing host. I actually use it to create a build plate, then let Repetier host slice it through slic3r since Slic3r likes to crash when you move or rearrange parts too quickly.. I really didn't likeby PDBeal - General
Quotebobc For anyone interested I have put a preliminary v2.2 on github : Is this for the existing Arduino Due or were you able to confirm this would work with the new Arduino STAR - OTTO?by PDBeal - Controllers
QuoteCalvinx66 It would be nice to get the issue fixed. It would have to be easily reproducible to know what is exactly wrong to fix it first, and its not a consistent issue at least not on either of my Duet 0.8.5 boards, although that being said I have yet to experience this on the one I have powered with 24V. The only one that I've experienced this on was my 12V machine. This brings up anothby PDBeal - Duet
What speeds do you have in your configuration.h file? That's a decent amount of weight on your X axis which makes me wonder if your missing steps when you move left and right. It would also explain why your step count is higher for X than Y, as based on your photo your X and Y counts should be identical. It also has me wondering what your Vref is set to on your stepper drivers for each axis.by PDBeal - Printing
One thing to note about PETG, I've had several large prints stick too well to the glass. Apparently, PETG is very harsh on glass, especially with large parts sticking too well. I did find an article that had the same problem with PETG I was experiencing and found those gorilla glass 9H glass screen protectors for ipads/tablets is better for PETG than borosilicate glass. I bought a few for $10-by PDBeal - General
I've had this exact problem with my PCB heatbed. In my case, the thermistor worked, but not very reliably. I changed my thermistor for a different one I had (same type and such, just physically different) and I've not seen my issue come back yet.by PDBeal - RAMPS Electronics